Walking in Pembrokeshire. Dennis Kelsall
through the graveyard and go right at its top edge, continuing along a hedged path signed ‘To the Coast Path’. Shortly, the King’s Quoit dolmen becomes visible ahead, but instead of falling to it the path climbs again to a junction. Turn right, dropping to meet the Coast Path beside the burial chamber.
The dolmen is known as the King’s Quoit, its capstone, the ‘quoit’, supposedly hurled by some mighty legendary ruler. Archaeologists, however, tell us that it is of Neolithic origin, the top slab originally being supported by three uprights, but one has collapsed leaving it canted to the ground. More ancient remains lie on nearby Old Castle Head, but unfortunately this is MOD property and there is no public access. The settlement there dates from the Iron Age, with a number of hut circles having been identified. However, it is suggested that the promontory continued to be inhabited long after that time and may have been occupied by the Normans before the castle at Manorbier was begun.
GERALD OF WALES
The de Barris held the manor for over 250 years, but it was Odo’s youngest grandson, Giraldus Cambrensis – Gerald of Wales – who is most remembered today. Born in 1145, he was a remarkable scholar and, before he died at the age of 77, had written some 17 books. Unlike his brothers who followed military careers, Gerald entered the Benedictine abbey of St Peter in Gloucester when he was 13 and later went to St David’s. Although offered bishoprics in Ireland and several places in Wales, his life’s ambition was to oversee St David’s, but after many rejections Gerald’s zeal finally waned and he spent his remaining years writing. He had travelled extensively during his life and his prolific literary legacy provides many amusing anecdotes and fascinating insights into the life of the period, albeit sometimes erring on the fanciful.
St James’ Church, Manorbier
ST JAMES’S CHURCH
Set in the middle of its churchyard on the steep slope of the valley, St James’ Church is one of the most attractive in the area. Perhaps occupying the site of an original Celtic church, the present building has its origins in a Norman foundation and is mentioned by Giraldus when, as a child, he asked to be taken there for safety during a Welsh raid on the Norman stronghold of Tenby in 1153. The oldest part of the church can be seen in the nave, but the chancel and transepts were rebuilt in the middle of the 13th century. The tower, erected around the same time, must have served a defensive role, for its only access is through a door high in the wall from which the ladder could be drawn up after entering.
Other points of interest include the effigy of a mailed recumbent knight with crossed legs; arms on his shield show him to be one of the de Barris, the Norman lords who built the castle.
To the left, the Coast Path continues around Priest’s Nose, passing, just beyond, above a dramatically narrow chasm that falls sheer to the sea, so amazingly precise that it might have been cut by a gigantic saw. There is another gash a little further along, but being wider, is less sensational. Around the point, the view ahead is to the bold prominence of Old Castle Head, site of a prehistoric fort, but now occupied as an artillery training school.
Towards Great Castle Head from Priest’s Nose
The path carries on above a steepening grassy slope that falls to low bare sandstone cliffs overlooking the sea, later tucking in and dipping behind inaccessible coves, which in turn offer an equally dramatic retrospective view as you climb beyond. After gaining height onto a small headland, the over-vertical cliffs turn in around Presipe Bay, the path leading to a gate.
Looking back along the cliffs to Priest’s Nose
Climb away from the coast at the field edge, continuing in the next field. Towards the far end, swing across right. Leave through a gate and follow a field track that skirts Hill Farm. Winding left past the end of a barn, look for a stile on the right. Head more or less straight downhill from field to field, leaving the third one through a gap in the bottom wall opposite a lime kiln, half hidden in the scrub.
The way back lies over a stile to the left, following a track away past a cottage. Keep right as you join the track from Hill Farm, eventually reaching the village. The tearoom and pub lie just to the right, otherwise, follow the lane left below the castle back down to the car park.
WALK 3
Bosherston and the Lily Ponds
| Start/finish | Bosherston (SR 966 948) |
| Distance | 1¾ miles (2.8km) |
| Total Ascent | 445ft (135m) |
| Time | 1hr |
| Terrain | Lakeside paths |
| Maps | Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire |
| Refreshments | Ye Olde Worlde Café and St Govan’s Inn at Bosherston |
| Toilets | Adjacent to car park |
| Public transport | Seasonal bus service to Bosherston |
| Parking | National Trust car park behind Bosherston's church (charge) |
The Bosherston Lily Ponds are at their best in early summer when the flowers are in full bloom, and are a favourite destination for many visitors to this part of Pembrokeshire. Several paths meander through the old Stackpole estate and offer a choice of easy rambles taking in the splendid woodland of the sheltered valleys, spectacular clifftop scenery and some marvellous beaches as well as the lakes themselves. This and the following walk explore some of the best corners and can either be undertaken individually or combined to make a longer day out.
Looking up the western arm of the lakes
Begin from the National Trust car park below Bosherston's church, following a path beyond the toilets down into woodland. Keep ahead past a junction and carry on a little further to reach a causeway across the upper end of the western arm of the Lily Ponds. The ongoing path follows the opposite bank, and where the track shortly forks, either way will do (the one on the right crests a rocky prominence from which there is a splendid view across the foot of the three lakes). The ways combine and lead to a second causeway, this crossing the middle arm. Go right on the far side, signed towards Broad Haven, the path winding around to a bridge across the longer, eastern arm. The walk described from Stackpole – Walk 4 – brings you to this point from across the bridge. If you want to combine the two, turn left and follow the eastern arm up, referring to the instructions given.
The Lily Ponds comprise a trio of narrow lagoon-like inlets weaving their watery fingers inland amidst gently rolling countryside. They are man-made, and were created in the late 18th century by damming the valley behind the beach at Broad Haven to provide a decorative feature for the grand, but now demolished, house of Stackpole Court. Flowering in June, the water lilies thrive on the lime-rich waters, which support an abundance of interesting wildlife. Among the birds commonly seen are kingfishers and herons, and the swans that live here often create a splendid show as they take off or land on the water. Equally eye-catching are the iridescent dashes of dragonflies and damselflies. If you walk quietly you might spot large pike lurking in the shady waters by the bank or, if you are very lucky, even see otters splashing about as they hunt for fish.