Singapore: World City. Kim Inglis

      Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) was the founder of modern-day Singapore. His statue by famed sculptor-cum-poet Thomas Woolner stands in front of the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall. The famous Hainanese chicken rice dish. A rubber stamp for the Republic of Singapore.

      For people with a limited knowledge of Singapore, it’s probably a mere dot of a rock at the southern end of the Malay Peninsula. But, for those in the know, it is so much more: a 700-square kilometre city-state on a tropical island; a teeming metropolis whose powerful skyline is fringed by fecund equatorial vegetation; an intriguing mix of Chinese, Indian, Malay and European inhabitants; few natural resources, but healthy GDP figures and a standard of living that most nations only dream of.

      The story of how Singapore was founded in 1819, prospered under colonial rule, then unburdened itself from its colonial yoke in 1965 and single-handedly transformed its society from third world to first world in less than a couple of decades should be the stuff of legends—except it happens to be true. Certainly Sir Stamford Raffles recognized its potential when he established a British port on what was a largely uninhabited island: he saw it possessed a deep natural harbour, fresh water supplies, plentiful timber for repairing ships, and, being close to the Straits of Malacca, would serve to challenge the Dutch who were dominating the lucrative China to British India trade route at the time.

      Over the next few decades, his instincts proved correct. Establishing Singapore as a free port, instigating sensible town planning, and encouraging immigration via low taxation and little restriction resulted in a thriving port city that came to dominate the region. Its status was sealed when it became a Crown Colony on 1 April 1867. Before Raffles arrived there were about 1,000 people—mostly Malays and a few Chinese—living on the island; by 1869, the population had risen to 100,000, consisting mainly of Chinese and Indian immigrants. Their descendents came to form the bulk of the new Singaporeans.

      Naturally, this burgeoning population had to be housed, and Raffles’ Town Plan—which formed much of the island’s early infrastructure—is still in evidence today. Around a colonial core housing financial, administrative and commercial buildings, grew a number of different districts divided into ethnic neighbourhoods, many of which remain. As the colony grew, so did its built environment: plantations were eaten up by residential estates and business premises spread far inland, although large swathes of jungle were left untouched.

      The next 100 years of Singapore’s development saw more radical change: Even though World War I did not really affect Singapore, World War II saw the colony capitulate to the Japanese. Between 1942 and 1945, it was occupied by the Japanese Empire, only to emerge afterwards with increasing levels of self-government, a merger with the Federation of Malaya in 1963, and eventual independence two years later. On the morning of the 9th of August 1965, Singapore was established as an independent and sovereign republic.

      The old and the new: Rows of terracotta tiled shophouse roofs in Chinatown are set against a backdrop of skyscrapers in the Financial District.

      The Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay rises from a sea of green below. Ranging in height from 25 to 50 metres, they provide shade and work as environmental engines for the gardens.

      View of the Fullerton Hotel, housed in the old General Post Office building (1924–28), framed through the Anderson bridge (1910).

      Five blocks of restored warehouses on the Singapore river house the various restaurants and nightclubs of Clarke Quay. Two moored Chinese junks (tongkangs) have been refurbished into floating pubs and restaurants.

      Double Happiness lanterns hang in front of colourful shophouse shutters.

      Detail from the gopuram or entrance tower of the Sri Mariamman temple featuring elaborate plaster sculptures.

      The Financial District’s gleaming towers form the backdrop to this photo of the Singapore river with the Elgin bridge (1929) in the foreground. Named after Lord Elgin, Governor-General of India (21 March 1862 to 20 November 1863), it was the first vehicular bridge to cross the river.

      Since then, a combination of single-minded determination on the part of the government and, more recently, levels of energy and creativity in the nascent Singaporean population have truly transformed the tiny city-state into a global power to be reckoned with. Two bodies—the Economic Development Board and the Housing Development Board—have spearheaded both economic growth and higher standards of living, all the while trying to maintain a balance between cultural and physical heritage and the demands of a growing nation.

      Mistakes have been made, the authorities have been accused of high handedness on more than one occasion, and there are always certain grumblings and mumblings to be had. Yet, nobody can deny the fact that Singapore has risen to meet its challenges head on and today stands proud as South East Asia’s most livable and most beautiful city.

      Recent years have seen a huge makeover of the Central Business District and the creation of a truly eye-catching downtown area at Marina Bay. Old shophouses and colonial buildings are finding new life as fashion-forward galleries, museums and hotels, while glass-and-steel skyscrapers punctuate an already impressive skyline.

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