Tropical Island Cooking. Jennifer Aranas

      GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS

      One of Cebu City’s claims to culinary fame is Carbon Market, Cebu’s largest outdoor market, a claustrophobic maze of open-air and covered stalls selling everything from pristine kangkong (water spinach) to ocean-fresh kuhol (snails) or handwoven banig (pandan mats). Carbon is also home to multiple food stalls, one particularly that sells the most delectable grilled chicken wings with sizzled skin and smoky meat. For this recipe I’ve replicated those flavors with the typical adobo marinade proportionately stretched into a seasoned brine that will plump the wings with flavor and keep them tender as they cook over the hot coals. The kicker for these wings is the barest sprinkle of calamansi juice right at the end that makes each bite an explosion of flavor.

      Makes approximately 25 wings

      Brine

      6 cups (1½ liters) boiling water

      1 cup (250 ml) soy sauce

      1 cup (200 g) brown sugar

      1 head garlic, cut in half horizontally to expose the cloves

      1 cup (250 ml) vinegar

      ½ cup (125 g) salt

      2 bay leaves

      6 cups (1½ liters) ice water

      Wings

      5 lbs (2¼ kg) chicken wings, approximately 25 wings

      2 tablespoons sesame oil

      2 teaspoons paprika

      1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

      5 to 6 fresh calamansi (substitute 1 lime), halved

      Make the brine: Combine the hot water, soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, vinegar, salt, and bay leaves in a large stockpot (7 to 8 quarts/liters). Stir to combine. Add the ice water to cool the brine. Set aside.

      Prepare the chicken and marinade: Prepare the wings. Chicken wings have three sections: the large drummette, the middle section, and the wing tip. Use a sharp knife to cut between the joints, separating the wing into three parts. Reserve the wing tips for chicken stock. Place the drummette and middle sections into the cooled brine. The wings should be completely covered. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.

      Drain the wings and rinse under cold water. Pat the wings dry with paper towels. Toss the wings with sesame oil, paprika, and pepper until well coated.

      Cook the wings: To cook the wings on a grill, follow Step 1; to cook them under a broiler, follow Step 2.

      Step 1. Preheat the grill and oil grates. Grill the wings 5 to 7 minutes per side until cooked through. The larger drummettes may take 7 to 9 minutes per side. Place the cooked wings on a serving platter and sprinkle with squeezed calamansi or lime juice. Serve hot.

      Step 2. You can achieve similar results using your broiler. Of course, your wings will lack that incomparable charcoal flavor, but substituting smoked paprika for hot paprika on the wings will give the chicken a smoky finish. Position your oven rack directly under the broiler. Preheat your broiler. Place the wings in a single layer on a baking sheet and place under the broiler for 6 to 8 minutes per side until the wings are cooked through.

      Variation: Tangy Wings. For a tangy barbecue sauce to baste on your wings, combine ¼ cup (50 ml) hoisin sauce, ¼ cup (50 ml) ketchup (banana ketchup works best), 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce in a bowl. Mix well and baste on wings as they cook.

      STEAMED BUNS FILLED WITH CURRY CHICKEN CURRY CHICKEN SIOPAO