Tropical Island Cooking. Jennifer Aranas
teaspoon sesame oil
1 cup (250 ml) olive oil or vegetable oil
8 to 10 cloves garlic, chopped
Pinch of salt
Heat the oils in a small skillet and warm over low to medium heat. Add the chopped garlic. Cook and stir the garlic until it has lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Pour the garlic and oil through a fine sieve over a bowl, reserving the garlic oil. Dry the garlic on paper towels. Cool the garlic and infused oil. Store separately in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
Five-Spice Vinegar
Filipinos are addicted to the amazing versatility and indelible zing of vinegar. Not just reserved for pickling or preserving, vinegar is an essential flavor component in dishes ranging from marinated kilaw (raw fish, similar to seviche) to slowly stewed adobo (a national Filipino dish) to refreshing sinigang, hot and sour soup. For an all-purpose vinegar, I prefer the native coconut or palm vinegar that is readily available in Asian markets and to my surprise even carried in select chain grocery stores. Coconut and nipa vinegars are mildly acidic and leave a clean finish with just a hint of sweetness. Most important, they do not overpower the food, allowing the ingredients of your dish to shine.
This recipe infuses vinegar with the bold flavors of five-spice to add a wonderful dimension to certain dishes such as the Scallop Kilaw (page 64), Salmon Kilaw (page 73) and pickled vegetable Achara (page 62). Using a combination of the five individual spices over five-spice powder will allow you to control the infusion of delicate flavors while keeping the color and texture of the vinegar intact. If at all possible avoid five-spice powder for this recipe. I go through a lot of this vinegar, so I add my spices directly to my bottle of vinegar. For smaller batches, simply use a glass jar to hold the vinegar and spices. Once all the vinegar is used, add more without replacing the spices. The spices will impart their flavors through 2 to 3 steepings.
Makes 2 cups (500 ml)
2 cups (500 ml) coconut or palm vinegar
2 pieces star anise
1 bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
5 cloves
Place all the ingredients together in a glass jar and allow the spices to impart their flavor for at least 24 hours before using. Store the jar in a cool dry place for up to 6 months.
Basic Dipping Sauces Sawsawan
A Filipino table is incomplete without the littering of small dishes filled with sawsawan, dipping sauces, to add the piquant heat of chiles, the puckery tang of citrus, or the heady zest of shrimp paste to the food as each person prefers. All-purpose dipping combinations such as vinegar and soy sauce, garlic and fish sauce, or calamansi and chilies are served to enliven simply prepared foods such as grilled fish or broiled chicken. More elaborate sawsawan such as the liver sauce served with spit-roasted suckling pig (lechon) or the garlicky sweet and sour sauce served with fresh spring rolls (lumpia sariwa) are reserved for specific dishes. I’ve included here just a few easy and basic dipping sauces that intensify the flavors of grilled or roasted meats, poultry, fish, and vegetables. Experiment with different herbs to add an extra layer of high impact flavor to your dipping sauces.
Toyomansi: makes 1⅔ tablespoons
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons calamansi juice
Spicy Garlic: makes 3 tablespoons
2 tablespoons coconut or palm vinegar
1 small Thai chile, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
Green Ginger: makes 2⅔ tablespoons
2 tablespoons calamansi juice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
1 teaspoon minced ginger
Shrimp Paste: makes 2⅓ tablespoons
2 tablespoons coconut or palm vinegar
1 teaspoon shrimp paste (bagoong hipon)
Sweet and Sour: Makes 2⅔ tablespoons
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
2 teaspoons calamansi juice
Sweet Chili Sauce: makes
½ cup (125 ml)
½ cup (125 ml) corn syrup
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon coconut or palm vinegar
2 teaspoons chili flakes or sambal ulek
½ teaspoon minced ginger
Combine in a saucepan. Simmer for 5 minutes to marry the flavors. Cool to room temperature before serving.
Lumpia Sariwa Dipping Sauce
Makes ½ cup (125 ml)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
½ cup (125 ml) water
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons vinegar
¼ cup (25 g) finely chopped roasted peanuts or cashews
Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. When the pan is hot add the garlic. Cook and stir the garlic for 30 seconds until golden brown. Stir in the flour and mix with the garlic and oil to form a paste. Add the water, soy sauce, brown sugar, and vinegar. Use a whisk to dissolve the liquids with the flour paste. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes until thick, constantly whisking until smooth. Cool the sauce and pour into a serving dish. Sprinkle the sauce with the chopped nuts and serve with lumpia sariwa (page 40).
Mushroom Soy Dipping Sauce
Makes 3 tablespoons
2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce
1½ teaspoons palm or coconut vinegar
1 clove roasted garlic, mashed
1 teaspoon mirin
¼ teaspoon salt
Dash of freshly ground black pepper
Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, and mirin in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour into a dipping sauce bowl and serve alongside Suman Nga Baboy, or Steamed Rice Cakes (page 28).
Eggplant-Prune Compote
Makes approximately 4 cups (600 g) Serves 4 as a side dish
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup (50 ml) coconut or palm vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup (250 ml) Chicken Stock (see page 15)
1 small eggplant, cut into 1-in (2½-cm) cubes
1 cup (150 g) chopped prunes
¼ cup (25 g) toasted and chopped pili nuts (substitute pine nuts)
Melt the butter in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced onion and cook until browned and caramelized, stirring occasionally, 6 to 8 minutes. Add