A Journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, in the Years 1808 and 1809. James Justinian Morier
At the top were placed sphinxes couchant, a circumstance which we ascertained from discovering accidentally two eyes and a mutilated foot at the extremity of one of the upper stones. In this wall there is a window, which is arched by the formation of its upper stone. Behind this square building, we traced most correctly the configuration of a theatre, thirty paces in length, and fourteen in breadth. The place resembled at least those called theatres which I have seen in Greece. From a comparison of their positions, we were led to suppose that the building still extant must have been connected with the other behind it, and may have formed perhaps the entrance to it. [Plate XIII.]
There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of Kauzeroon relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at Shapour, and connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of the least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had advanced some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his fears appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself however so far as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he found a sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock. As a measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would require twenty mauns of oil, (a maun is seven pounds and a quarter) to light any one through all their intricacies.
The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and about the surrounding plain, were the palma christi, rodo-dendron, the willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call shauk-a-booz, and caveer, reeds, and benak or spice plant. The plain towards Shapour is much more cultivated than towards Kauzeroon, and is intersected by a variety of small artificial channels, which receive their supplies from the river. The river itself is a stream of very fine water, but after having run for about eighteen miles, it meets with a bed of salt among the mountains, which renders its waters in its farther progress towards the sea quite salt.
After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we returned to Kauzeroon. This town covers a large extent of country, but its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green spot near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees, and belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted and stuccoed, with painted glass windows; and after having so long roamed over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to meet with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.32 The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate.
We set off at eight o’clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived at our encampment in the valley of Abdoui, at half past twelve. The road led by the walls of Kauzeroon, and through the plain, until we came to a causeway called the Poul-aub-guinee, which is reckoned two fursungs from Kauzeroon. From this spot (which is a swamp forming the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind up a high mountain called the Dockter or “Daughter.” Over this, in the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and parapet walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the precipices, which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road. Formerly this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and ingenuity of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary to conduct their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that the driver, when his mule was about descending a very steep part of the pass, would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold it fast, until the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when again he helped it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety. We reached the summit of the Dockter at about half past ten, and from thence we marched over a better road, until we descended into the small and beautiful valley of Abdoui. It is thickly covered with oak trees, which, though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a verdant and refreshing spot.
Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one of his old Persian friends Mahomed Reza Khan was about to meet him on his route; that he was the bearer of good news, and would therefore demand his moodjdéhlook, the customary present. The news was the defeat of the Russians at Erivan, whose loss in killed and prisoners amounted, according to the Persian’s report, to six thousand men. A firman from the King was also announced to be at this time on the road for the Envoy.
Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning of the 27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain, perhaps four miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of the Peera zun, or “Old Woman,” a mountain, the greatest height of which formed the termination of our several ascents. We were at the top at twelve o’clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain of Desht-e-arjun, at the north extremity of which is situated the village of the same name. Before we entered it, we were met by Mahomed Reza Khan, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court of Shiraz, and who received our compliments on the success of the Persian arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we were met by the istakball, which was like all the others, excepting that it was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass, who was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile from the village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs as at Derees, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees, watered by a fine gushing spring.
The plain itself is swampy; but the heights which bound it are all of a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innumerable, ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant, and rendered the plain of Desht-e-arjun one of the most delightful spots which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are in summer covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just peeping out of the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed the mountains; for we had scarcely reached our encampment, when thick clouds covered their summits, and here and there left extensive layers of snow.
On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke up; we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued all the road in the same region as the plain of Desht-e-arjun, nor do I think that any very considerable descent had brought us much below the summit of the Peera Zun. The people of the country reckon Khoné Zenioun colder than Desht-e-arjun, and indeed than any other habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At Khoné Zenioun there is only a Caravanserai; near it a small stream runs to the Eastward; we came to its banks at half past ten o’clock, but did not cross it till close under the walls of the Caravanserai.
Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the information that Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King’s letter, was within a mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with every honour, we exchanged our travelling clothes for uniforms and swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of ceremony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the Shiraz road, with the body guard in their best clothes, with flying colours and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the Mehmandar, and all the gentlemen of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form towards Kerim Khan, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us with an attendant behind him, bearing the King’s firman. When the greetings of welcome were interchanged, the Khan took the King’s letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and delivered it into the Envoy’s hands, saying aloud, “This is the King’s firman.” Sir Harford received it with both his hands, and having carried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted our horses, and returned to the Envoy’s tent, where all parties were seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of compliments then took place between the principals, “khosh amedeed” and