A Journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, in the Years 1808 and 1809. James Justinian Morier
or to one who is not of the faith; but the Persians are less scrupulous. Kerim Khan conveyed many flattering compliments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his own part. Sir Harford called for Peer Murad Beg, his chief Moonshee, to read the firman. He arrived barefooted, and stood respectfully at the end of the tent; when the firman was put into his hands all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their hats: Peer Murad Beg read the firman aloud, with a marked and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir Harford, and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine of smoking and coffee was performed, during which the different gentlemen in the room were presented to Kerim Khan; our Mehmandar officiated in this instance, and described all our different qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. Kerim Khan then departed to lodge with the Mehmandar, who, on this occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for the reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to entertain the stranger.
29th. We departed from Khoné Zenioun this morning at half past seven; and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the Bagh Shah Cheragh, a distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of ascents and descents, and on a better road than those of the preceding days. The same river, by the banks of which we had been encamped, accompanied us in various directions, and, winding towards the east, met us at a station of Rahdars,33 (as we were entering the plain of Shiraz), where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the first view of Shiraz at the end of the plain. This day was replete with attentions and honours to Sir Harford and his Mission; an istakball, composed of fifty horsemen of our Mehmandar’s tribe, met us about three miles from our encampment; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats beneath the Envoy’s horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed at Kauzeroon, and which we again understood to be an honour shared with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal merchants of Shiraz, accompanied by a boy, the son of Mahomed Nebee Khan, the new Governor of Bushire. They, however, incurred the Envoy’s displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form always observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a superior. We were thus met by three istakballs during the course of the day, and Mahomed Zeky Khan, our Mehmandar, amused us by the singing of a young boy, one of the first professional performers of Shiraz. A number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen who overspread the plain to a great extent; some throwing the girid, and then firing their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others throwing the lance in the air, and catching it again.
On our road the Mehmandar, who had just received the message from Shiraz, announced that one of the Prince’s own tents was pitched at Bagh Shah Cheragh for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction. It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of which was a crimson field, with green embroidery; on their interior covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole was supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets were spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the finest Masulipatam chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted in the cornices. The Feroshes (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make a small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent ready for the Envoy’s reception; upon which, when our visitors were departed, we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very opportunely laid the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be displayed all our splendour and finery.
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