Carpentry and Woodwork. Edwin W. Foster
axe every time.
The parts are shown in Fig. 43. The legs of the turkey are stuck rigidly to the body by brads and a little glue, and they are fastened to the ground piece by one brad, which acts as a pivot.
The axeman's body and right leg are in one piece, the left leg being in two pieces. The arms adhere rigidly to the body, and the axe to the hands, by means of brads. The operating strip is 1⁄4 inch wide and 9 inches long.
It is fastened between the legs of the turkey, and to the rigid leg of the man, by one brad for pivot in each case.
The stump is nailed to the ground strip from the front.
VII
DESIGNING MOVING TOYS
The boys found this making of toys so fascinating that one was barely finished before another was suggested. So absorbed did they become that even meals were forgotten, and they regarded it as a hardship to be called in to supper, while to be told that it was bedtime was absolute cruelty. They found that it saved time to be systematic, and the usual method of procedure was about as follows:
Fig. 44. The boxers
First, to decide on the practicability of the idea. Second, to sketch out a skeleton figure, as in a (Fig. 44), the boxers. When the proper action was secured in these skeleton figures, the bodies were sketched roughly around them as shown at b. Third, the movement of the figures was thought out, and separate drawings traced from the assembled drawing on tracing paper. Fourth, these separate pieces were traced on 1⁄8-inch basswood with the grain of the wood running the long way of the piece, wherever it was possible. Fifth, the pieces were sawed out, and the edges smoothed with knife and sand-paper. Very often, through anxiety to see how it worked, the smoothing of the edges was neglected. Sixth, the parts were put together with brads, and where the points came through they were bent over or "clinched" on the further side. Seventh, after experiments to discover the best position for it, the moving strip was fastened to the legs by 3⁄8-inch brads, and last of all the feet were pivoted to the ground piece in the same way.
Fig. 45. The boxers assembled
The boys learned many things not to do: for example, all the finer details of the face and hands must be omitted, as they are very apt to be broken off in sawing. It was found best to make the feet nearly round or the brads would split the wood. For that reason wherever a brad has to be driven through, the arm or leg should be made larger than the proportionate size.
Fig. 46. The racing automobile
The most surprising feature about the figures was the fact that the shadow they cast on a white wall or sheet was more realistic than the figures themselves, and our boys never tired of exercising these toys in order to watch the shadow pictures.
Of all combinations, perhaps the design and construction of a racing automobile, that would actually go, gave them the greatest amount of amusement as well as the largest number of problems to solve. The history of trials and failures need not be given, but the machine, as finished, is shown in Fig. 46. The body and hood are comparatively simple. The principal trouble, as with larger machines, was with the motive power, and the boys finally compromised by using a rubber band. The four wheels were sawed out of 3⁄16-inch basswood, and smoothed with sand-paper, the two driving wheels for the rear having a 1⁄4-inch hole drilled to receive the ends of the axle. The rear axle was 1⁄4 inch square at the centre for half an inch, and the rest of it 1⁄4 inch in diameter, rounded with the knife and sand-paper. The total length of the axle was four inches, and the wheel base seven and one-half inches.
For the driving gear, three disks shown at a (Fig. 47) were sawed out, the two large ones, 11⁄4 inches in diameter, from 1⁄8-inch basswood. The edges of these two were rounded with knife and sand-paper. The small disk, 3⁄4 inch in diameter, was cut from 1⁄4-inch wood or two 1⁄8-inch pieces placed together and glued.
Fig. 47. Pieces of racing automobile
A square hole was cut through the centre of each of these disks with a knife, and they were then put together with glue and brads, making a very serviceable grooved pulley, which was slipped over the shaft and fitted over the square part in the centre. As it was a snug fit no glue was necessary, and the square part prevented the pulley from slipping on the shaft. The forward axle was made 33⁄4 inches long, 1⁄4 of an inch square, except at the ends, where for a distance of 5⁄16 inch it was rounded, 1⁄4 inch in diameter. This completed the wheels, axles, and transmission pulley.
The chassis, or frame, which supports the body, consists of two pieces of 3⁄16-inch basswood 8 inches long and 1⁄2 inch wide, with a 1⁄4-inch hole drilled 1⁄4 inch from each end. The floor of the auto, on which the body rests, is 1⁄8-inch basswood 6 × 31⁄2 inches, and it binds the whole machine together, giving it strength and rigidity, but it must not be fastened in place until the structure is ready for assembling.
The hood is simply a box 31⁄4 inches long, 21⁄2 inches wide, and 11⁄4 inches high without a bottom. The top piece may be left unfastened, if desired, with two cleats on the under side to hold it in position. The hood then becomes an available place to keep small articles, tools, etc.
The body of the automobile is composed of five pieces: the two sides of the shape shown at b, the dash-board, to which they are fastened with brads, the seat, and the back. This body can be taken off and replaced by other bodies, made to represent roadsters, touring cars, limousines, etc.
A block of 1⁄4-inch basswood 3⁄4 inch square is fastened to the dash-board. This block has a 3⁄16-inch hole drilled through it at an angle of forty-five degrees, and into this hole is glued the steering-gear, consisting of a basswood stick, whittled to 3⁄16 inch diameter, with a 1⁄8-inch wheel 11⁄4 inches in diameter fastened at the top, d.
The method of assembling is important. First, insert the front and rear axles through the holes or bearings in the chassis, or frame; then nail the floor to the frame with 3⁄8-inch brads. This gives a rigid structure to work on, the front edge of the floor being even with the forward ends of the frame. Now screw into the under side of the floor, 11⁄4 inches from the front end, a 1⁄2-inch screw eye or screw hook, or even a flat-head nail. This is to hold one end of the rubber band which is to supply the motive power.
The hood may now be put together and fastened even with the front of the machine by nailing it from the bottom with brads. The body is put on by nailing the