Handicraft Simplified Procedure and Projects in Leather, Celluloid, Metal, Wood, Batik, Rope, Cordage, Yarn, Horsehair, Pottery, Weaving, Stone, Primitive Indian Craft. Lester Griswold
the skiving operation shown in A the section of the surface between the score cut and the margin. Of course care must be taken to avoid cutting through.
Fig. 2
Edge Skiving
Fig. 2 shows the steps in finishing a skived edge of a purse which is not to be lined. The edge is first moistened and the fold creased down. Cement is applied lightly from the fold to the margin and it is then smoothed down in place. The folded edge is creased to produce a neater finish as indicated.
Fig. 3
Cementing of Parts
The illustration shows the application of cement to the skived edge, of an unlined coin purse. B shows front and back cemented in position for punching. Note that the combined thickness is about equal to that of the unskived flap. If the edges of the leather are lighter in color than the surface, they should be stained before cementing.
Punching
Punching.
Sketch J above shows punch and the hole spacing gauge, with gauge tip inserted in the first hole punched in the corner of the leather touching the creaser lines. Sketch K shows a method of securing two pieces of leather to hold them in place while being punched. Thread or string is tied through the corner holes. The punching operation is indicated and should be continued to within about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the corner. At this point, Cut B, observe the intervening space to make sure how many holes will be required. It may be necessary to slightly increase or decrease the spacing in order to make the corner hole come right. A good practice is to estimate the spacing and mark lightly the position of the holes, before punching either with, or independently of the gauge. If the anvil becomes rough from use, the under margin of the holes may be marred. To prevent this, smooth the anvil occasionally with a fine file. In any case it is desirable to punch with the outside of an article uppermost. A piece of thin leather or paper held underneath the purse while punching will prevent scratching and save the edge of the tube.
AB
Cementing a Lining.
Fig. 3, page 64, shows the manner of applying the cement to the skived edge of an unlined article. In Sketch C the lining is shown as attached to a folded article, such as the flap of a bag. The flat surfaces are first cemented smoothly together along the fold, then placed over a block or table edge with the lining against the edge, at the point where the fold is to be made. Apply cement along the fold and out to edges of flap. Then press carefully together, working toward the outer margin of the flap, smoothing out any wrinkles in the lining. Sketch B shows the method of smoothing out any wrinkles in the lining by rubbing toward the edge with a bone folder. Additional cement may be necessary if it becomes too dry to adhere. The same thing may be accomplished as indicated in Sketch E. Here the lining is kept smooth and all bulging and wrinkles worked out between the thumb and fingers as the fold is gradually made. This method is satisfactory for small articles.
Note—Bookbinder’s flexible glue or rubber cement should be used. Do not use a glue which becomes hard and makes the leather stiff when dry.
Fig. 6
Lining a Gusset
Sketches B, C, D and E to L indicate the procedure in lining a gusset, such as is used in the envelope bag illustrated in sketch A. B shows the shape of the outside piece of leather with the edges skived. Note the top is skived back farther from the edge than the other margins. Sketch C shows the shape of the lining which is shorter than the outside piece. The cement is applied to the edges and along the line of the fold, then the lining is placed in position as shown in sketch C, and the whole gusset folded as in sketch D. The edges are then pressed firmly and smoothly together while it is held in the folded position. The top edge of the outer leather, which extends beyond the lining, is then folded over the lining and cemented down, sketch E. The gusset is now ready to be inserted in the proper position in the bag, as indicated in sketch A. The edges of the gusset are cemented to the edges of the outside, to hold them in position while the bag is punched and laced. Care should be taken to cement only the edges together, and the cement should be spread no farther than about 1/8 inch from the margins. Much of the appearance of the bag depends upon this operation. After the edges are firmly cemented, any uneven margins which may have developed in the smoothing and stretching of the lining, should be trimmed before proceeding with the punching. This can best be done by cutting with a sharp knife along a straight edge or metal edged ruler, on a block of wood.
The outside and lining sections F and G for the gussets of metal top bags are cut the same except for the two inch lap which is to be turned over the lining at the point of the hinge. The top edge of the outside including the lap must be skived very thin and the lining is cemented in position with both pieces on a flat surface. The fold of the finished gusset takes position shown in sketch H.
Edge Lacing
The procedure in edge lacing using the lay over stitch is shown in Fig. 4, Sketches A to E, page 68.
Start the lacing shown in Fig. 5, Sketch A. The end of the lacing thong is left standing and the lacing is carried around it as indicated by the arrow in Sketch A. Sketch B shows the lacing thong drawn down in place. The procedure is then the same as indicated in Sketches C-D and shown step by step in Fig. 4.
Splice a Lacing Thong as shown in sketch, Fig. 5, Sketches H-J-K. Draw the new thong through the last two loops formed by the preceding thong and between the lining and the outside leather. Pass the new thong through the next hole indicated in Sketch H by the arrow. Pass the end of the preceding lacing thong through the corresponding hole in the lining as indicated by Sketch J. The end of this thong remains between the lining and outside leather. Form the next stitch with the new thong as indicated by the arrow, Sketch J. Pull the loop snugly down and press the lining and outer leather in place. Continue lacing with the new thong as indicated in Sketch K. The end of the preceding thong may be left free between the lining and outer leather or included within the next two stitches as preferred. In fact, both ends of the joined thongs may be left free between the leathers and make a satisfactory junction. It will require the use of a hook or pointed tool to loosen and remove the ends of the lacing. This method produces a less stiff and bulky edge than the one where the thongs are caught under the four loops of the edge lacing.
End the Lacing as shown in Fig.