Good Things in England - A Practical Cookery Book for Everyday Use, Containing Traditional and Regional Recipes Suited to Modern Tastes. Florence White

Good Things in England - A Practical Cookery Book for Everyday Use, Containing Traditional and Regional Recipes Suited to Modern Tastes - Florence White


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think our skinless sausages are peculiar to this part of the country. They are well-flavoured with herbs. When we were children, we regarded them as proper sausages and the larger skinned form as base imitations.’

      And Professor Saintsbury in A Scrap Book (1922) asks ‘What has come to . . . that admirable variety, the Oxford Sausage (much herbed, skinless and moulded into sausage shape only just before cooking), which was not to be found the last time I ordered it there.’

      These skinless sausages are claimed therefore by both Cornwall and Oxford. They can be bought at Oxford (1931). Mr. Charles Clark, The Middle Avenue, Market, still makes them for sale, and claims to be the sole maker of the real thing.

      And here is a very old recipe for those who live far away and wish to make them at home. In these days of small hand-mincing machines or mincers, it would be quite easy to do so; putting them into skins is the difficulty.

      Recipe for Oxford Sausages

      1826

      INGREDIENTS: Young pork, fat and lean 1 lb.; lean veal 1 lb.; beef suet 1 lb.; grated bread 1/2 lb.; half a lemon; a nutmeg; fresh sage leaves 6; pepper 1 teaspoonful; salt, 2 teaspoonfuls, a little thyme, savory and marjoram.

      METHOD

      1.Remove all skin and gristle from the meat and suet, and

      2.Put all through the mincer or chop very finely.

      3.Grate the bread and add it to the meat.

      4.Shred half the rind of the lemon, and grate the nutmeg.

      5.Chop the sage, thyme, savory and marjoram very fine, and add all these with the pepper and salt to the meat and bread.

      6.Mix well all together and press down in a pan till you want to use it.

      7.Then with floured hands roll portions of the sausage meat the size and shape of ordinary sausages; and fry in clarified fat or grill a fine golden brown (see pp. 29 and 33).

      Epping Sausages

      1826

      This also is a recipe for skinless sausage and easy to make. It is quite simple to make any smaller quantity.

      INGREDIENTS: Young pork 6 lb.; beef suet 6 lb.; sage leaves, a handful; some thyme, savory and marjoram; lemon 1; nutmegs 2; pepper, a spoonful; salt, a large spoonful; egg as much as will make it smooth.

      METHOD

      1.Put the pork free from skin, gristle and fat through a mincer, and pound it fine in a mortar.

      2.Chop the beef suet very fine.

      3.Shred the sage leaves finely.

      4.Spread the meat on a clean dresser-[board] and shake the sage over it.

      5.Shred the rind of the lemon very fine and throw it with some chopped sweet herbs on the meat.

      6.Grate the nutmegs over it, powder with the pepper and salt.

      7.Chop the suet finely and throw that over it.

      8.Mix all well together, and put down close in a pot ready for use.

      9.Then roll it up into sausages with as much egg as will make it smooth, and fry in clarified fat, or grill.

      Summer Sausage Rolls

      1842

      Equal portions of cold roast veal and ham, or cold fowl and tongue minced and seasoned with a teaspoonful of powdered sweet herbs, and a spoonful of salt and cayenne pepper mixed. Mix well together with some thickened delicately-flavoured gravy to make the mixture the consistency of sausage meat. Heat all together, and when cold, with floured hands make up into sausages, egg and bread-crumb, leave for an hour, egg and bread-crumb again and fry; or roll out some puff pastry very thin, cut into squares, put a sausage-shaped piece of the mixture in the centre, roll up in the pastry, pinch together, brush over with egg and milk and bake in a quick oven. May be eaten hot or cold.

      Skinless Sausages

      Mrs. J. Rowley, Tendring, Suffolk, 1857

      INGREDIENTS: Pork, lean and fat, 4 lb.; bread-crumbs, 1/2 lb.; sage; pepper; salt; and a very little spice.

      METHOD

      1.Mince the pork finely, there should be about one-third fat to two-thirds lean.

      2.Add the bread-crumbs, finely chopped fresh sage or powdered dried sage, salt, pepper and a little powdered allspice.

      3.Mix well, and

      4.Make up into sausages with a little flour, and fry as required. Will keep two or three days in a cool place in winter if well seasoned; and it is possible to make with half quantities

      Skuets

       An Eighteenth Century Recipe

      1. Take several ordinary modern metal skewers with a small ring at the top of each. Stainless skewers can now be bought.

      2. Stew till tender some lambs’ sweetbreads, or a calf’s sweetbread, cut into inch or inch and a half cubes. Remove all skin and gristle and allow to get cold.

      3. Cut some good bacon into thin squares about the same size.

      4. Season all well by dipping them in egg and rolling them in seasoned bread-crumbs.

      5. Thread them on the skewers alternately — bacon and sweetbread. Then hang on hooks in a Dutch roaster, or grill under gas or electricity, and baste.

      [N.B. — It is an improvement to introduce a peeled mushroom cup dipped in oiled butter under each piece of sweetbread, so that it catches the ‘drip’ from both bacon and ‘bread.’ Skuets of oysters rolled in bacon are delicious, and crowds of others can be invented by the imaginative mind. — ED.]

      Devilled Kidneys

      Tendring Hall, Suffolk, 1867

      INGREDIENTS: Sheeps’ kidneys; mustard; pepper; butter.

      TIME: 8 to 10 minutes.

      METHOD

      1.Split the kidneys open without dividing them.

      2.Strip off the skin and fat.

      3.Score them and rub in mustard and pepper.

      4.Run a fine skewer through the joints and across the back of the kidney to keep it flat while broiling.

      5.Lay them on a greased gridiron over a clear fire with the cut sides towards it or in a hanging grid, Dutch oven or electric or gas griller.

      6.Turn them in three or four minutes, and, in as many more, dish them up quickly.

      Broiled Bones

      Tendring Hall, Suffolk, 1863

      Pepper and salt the bones well, spread a little butter on them to moisten them. Place on a gridiron over a clear fire (or on a gas or electric grill); turn them over two or three times until they are done.

      Pour over them the Broil Sauce.

      Broil Sauce

      INGREDIENTS: Worcester Sauce; common vinegar; made mustard; butter.

      METHOD


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