Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land. W. S. C. Russell

Iceland: Horseback tours in saga land - W. S. C. Russell


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the Author in Full Dress of the Faroese, Frontispiece Cutting up Whale Meat at Thorshavn, 38 Heads of the Bottle Nose Whale, 38 Helgafell, Volcanic Cone, Vestmannaeyjar, 56 A Chain of Basalt Pyramids in Faroe, 56 The Hay Market and the Harbor at Reykjavik, 66 An Odd Corner in Reykjavik, 66 The Latin School at Reykjavik, 72 The Thinghús, Parliament Building, Reykjavik, 72 Foot of the Öxerá in Almannagjá, 96 Lögberg, Mount of Laws, between the Rifts, Ármannsfell in the Distance, 96 Bridge River, Brúará, near Geysir, 114 Tube of Geysir Filling, Photographed from within the Basin, 114 Favorite Ponies, Sunlocks and Greba, 158 Mountains of Sulfur, Solfataras, at Krisuvik, 158 When the Fog Lifted—Entrance to Seyðisfjörðr, 184 Washing Split Cod at Faskrudsfjörðr, 184 Goðafoss, the Icelandic Niagara, on the Skjalfandafljöt, 204 Island Craters in the Mývatn, from Skútustaðir, 204 Fording a Shallow Arm of the Mývatn, Turf Cottage in the Distance, 218 Contorted, Twisted and Crumpled Lava at Skútustaðir, 218 A Hot Water Fall at Hveravellir, (Hot Spring Valley), 226 Slútness, Crater Island in the Mývatn, Home of the Golden Eyed Duck, 226 Flag of the Arctic Club of America On the Summit of Krafla, 238 Obsidian Ridge, Hrafntinnuhryggr, near Summit of Krafla, 238 Thverá, a Highland Home in the Öxnadalr, 248 Vatnsdalshólar, Numberless Conical Hills in Vatnsdalr, 248 The Glacier of Láng Jökull in the Kaldidalr, 276 Glaciers and Moraine on Arnavatnsheiði, 276 Árhver, River Hot Springs near Reykholt, 292 Reykholt, Ancient Stead of Snorri, Typical Icelandic Farm, 292

       Table of Contents

       HISTORICAL

       Table of Contents

      Atossa.—And who is set over them as a shepherd of the flock, and is master of the army?

      Chorus.—They call themselves the slaves of no man, nor the subjects either.

      —Aeschylus.

      Historically, Iceland is unique. Assyria, Egypt, Greece, Italy, Mexico—each has a prehistoric period of human habitation, when man loved and hated, and competed with the brutes for existence. He fashioned his instruments from stone and made self-preservation his first and only law. A sturdy race, little removed from the highest brutes, filled with animal vigor and endowed with brute passions, held all known lands in prehistoric time. Step by step, cycle upon cycle, brute force submitted to reason; culture and refinement, mental acquisition and spiritual attainment characterized an evolutionary race of human beings in which each developing cycle was founded upon the decadence of the prehistoric.

      Not so with Iceland. A myriad centuries the Atlantic had rolled its billows against these basalt cliffs, the Arctic packed its ice upon these shores, the beetling mountains cast their rugged outlines upon the quiet fiords, the great Plutonic candles flamed in the Arctic air and guttered the land again and again with scorching streams of molten rock. The seal basked in the sunshine of the lengthened summer, the salmon sported in the glacial streams and millions of birds congregated on the lofty cliffs. All life was blissfully ignorant of its great enemy, man.

      

      There


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