Skincare Decoded. Victoria Fu
of hydration.
Balms & salves Occlusive central,
baby! These are skin-saving booster
products for those prone to dry patches.
Gel cream These lighter
moisturizers, with low or
lightweight occlusives,
are a staple for oily skin.
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Lotions
Creams ”Waters”
Gel Creams
Simple moisturizers
This is the most generic,
basic moisturizer.
Perfect daily upkeep
staple for lost souls and
normal skin.
Many ”oil-free”
moisturizers are gel
creams
Typically humectant
heavy. If it includes
occlusives, it usually
uses silicones or other
lightweight options.
Traditional moisturizers in
a jar. Trendy ”night masks”
are usually creams too.
More heavy duty than
your basic lotion. The
increased occlusive
content makes it perfect
for those with dry skin.
Toners, micellars, mists,
essences
First step post cleansing.
This is more of a feel-
good than a must-have
for most skin types.
STAPLE PRODUCTS
The Product Landscape
I
f you walk down the shopping aisles hunting for a moisturizer, you’ll quickly find
that the landscape is vast and confusing. But you can actually break it down into
your staple moisturizer products and your boosters and support products.
Putting It All Together
Here it is—your chemist-approved starting point for moisturizers. It can be a bit of a Goldilocks
experience to try to find your perfect moisturizer, but once you do, you can move on to the booster
category to tailor your moisturizing to your ever-changing skin needs. And, as always, you know
your skin better than we do! If you have a go-to that doesn’t quite fit our assumptions but makes
your skin look and feel awesome, donʼt let anyone talk you out of it. Including us!
A.K.A.
H/E/O
Ratio*
Who/What/
When
* This table is a general breakdown. Different brands may interpret these terms differently. H/E/O is reffering to the
humectant, emollient, occlusive ratio.
SKINCARE DECODED • 62 MOISTURIZERS • 63
Gels
Oils Balms
Masks
Hydrating gels, serums,
ampoules
A seriously hydrating gel
can be enough for the
oiliest skin. This is also a
great booster for those
with dry skin.
A hydrating “pamper
me” moment suitable
for all skin types.
Face oils, serums
Last step or mixed with
your staple product.
Depending on the type
of oil, it could be a great
booster for all skin types.
Salves, butters
Last step. Great spot
treatment for dry or
irritated patches.
BOOSTER PRODUCTS
Staple Products vs. Booster Products Staples are your more traditional
moisturizers, which are a combination of humectants, emollients, and occlusives in
one milky, creamy formula. Booster products are usually made up of only one type
of moisturizing ingredient. They are great to have in your arsenal so you can adjust
to your skin’s needs when you find your staple product is just not quite cutting it.
Am I . . . Normal!?!
Gel Cream or Lotion
You’re blessed! Tight and
dry skin is just a myth
or a winter special. Just
a simple gel cream or
lotion should suffice!
I’m. So. Dry.
Gel and Cream
and/or Balm
Layering is your friend!
Add a balm to target
extra-troublesome, flaky
patches.
I’m a Little Oily
Gel or Gel Cream
Gels might be all you
need for midday shine.
Simple gel creams are
perfect for mildly oily or
combination skin.
Feeling Sensitive
Petrolatum Balm
Look for skin barrier–
reinforcing ceramides,
cholesterol, fatty acids,
or soothing ingredients.
(See page 165.)
Most sheet masks
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Troubleshooting Your Routine
B
ased on the charts of all the crazy product types, moisturizers are a
massive category. Not to mention that many of these product types have
overlapping functions. So, when you’re developing a good moisturizing routine,
try following these simple guidelines according to your skin type.
Oily Skin
For those of you with oily