Skincare Decoded. Victoria Fu
skin to achieve that supple look!
Humectants
Emollients
Occlusives
LOTION VS. CREAM
SKINCARE DECODED • 50 MOISTURIZERS • 51
Category 2: Emollients (All Things Oil)
Emollients fill in the rough patches of your skin
and instantly give it that soft, smooth feel. These
ingredients are usually lighter, oil-based substances
such as jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride,
squalane, and coconut alkanes. The most
common emollient-centric products are, of course, face oils! These products
have become very popular in the past decade. As a result, many brands have
released their own “miraculous, antioxidant-rich, wrinkle-correcting, time-
stopping, sustainably harvested” face oil. These are great little moisturizer
boosters, but don’t take the fancy “turn back time” claims too seriously.
Who needs emollients? If you moisturize, there’s a solid chance that you
already have some emollients in your life. These can be great for both dry and
oily skin types; it’s just about finding the right oil. Just adding a few drops as a
last step to your routine can help elevate your go-to moisturizer on days when
it’s just not cutting it.
Category 3: Occlusives (Seal That Moisture In!)
Your skin is your barrier against outside aggressors like
UV light and pollutants, but sometimes your skin barrier
needs a little help. Occlusives are there to help your
skin do that job even better. Occlusives are heavy, fatty, waxy
substances that form a physical, water-resistant barrier over your
skin to seal in moisture. Some common occlusive ingredients
are petrolatum, butters, waxes, and heavier silicones. Occlusive-
forward products such as balms or salves are great for spot-treating ultradry
patches of skin.
Who needs occlusives? You guessed it! As with the other two categories,
everyone could benefit from having some occlusives in their lives. But if you’re
dry, seriously consider occlusives. Slather on that butter, balm, or petrolatum.
Trust us—your skin will thank you.
From my carcass,
I giveth thee
petrolatum.
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Meet the Moisturizing Ingredients
I
f you stalk online skincare-ingredient databases (like we do—we’re so cool),
you’ll see that everything claims to be some sort of moisturizing miracle. But
which ingredients are the fairest of them all? Here’s a quick introduction to
some of our chemists’ favorite moist-making ingredients!
Humectants
Nowadays, it seems everything is “hydrating.” The reality is, there’s nothing
out there that ranks all humectants. Humecants can vary a lot in terms of
molecular weight and secondary benefits. One strategy is to have a blend of
these humectants below to make your hydration game more well rounded.
UREA (Molecular weight: 60)
Also part of the NMF category. Unlike other humectants, urea seems to
improve barrier function in the long run on top of instant hydration benefits.
In fact, as skin ages, urea becomes more helpful in body care. Yes, there are
people out there that claim “Urea comes from pee! I will not put pee on my face!” Rest
assured that the urea in your cream does not come from urine extract.
LACTIC ACID (Molecular weight: 90)
Also part of the NMF category. Lactic acid is a very versatile ingredient: In
addition to being a great hydrator, it can also be used in chemical exfoliation.
GLYCERIN (Molecular weight: 92)
You’ll find this in many, many, many products. The reason is—it works! This
small molecule can wedge itself into the fatty stratum corneum’s lipid matrix,
giving skin that nice, supple, flexible texture.
Representative Humectant-Forward Products Cosmetic waters,
essences, gels, hydrating serums, and most gel creams.
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PANTHENOL (Molecular weight: 205)
Also known as pro-vitamin B
5
, panthenol is considered both a humectant and
an emollient. It also has great soothing properties.
COLLAGEN (Molecular weight: 300,000)
Many people may associate collagen with anti-aging claims. The reality is,
though, that topical collagen can not replace your natural collagen. However,
this chubby molecule can be a great hydrator!
HYALURONIC ACID (Molecular weight: anywhere from 20,000 to 2 million+)
Probably one of the most prolific categories of hydrators! You’ll hear claims,
from hydration to plumping to even anti-aging. Most HAs on the market are
high-molecular-weight polymers—in the 2 million-plus size range. This means
molecules sit on the skin’s surface, effectively keeping it hydrated all day.
A Very Brief History
of Moisturizing
People have been moisturizing for thousands of years!
Ancient Roman women applied lanolin before going
to sleep. Cleopatra used donkey milk and shea butter.
Ancient Chinese royals used blends of traditional Chinese
medicine mixed with animal fat. All in all, humans have long understood the
importance of using occlusives to shield skin from the elements.
That said, no matter the time period, humans are humans. We get some
things right and some things very wrong. The butters and waxes make sense,
but there are a few . . . more questionable stories. Helen of Troy was said to have
bathed in vinegar, and Hungarian princess Erszebet (Elizabeth) Báthory allegedly
bathed in the blood of young girls. (Don’t do that, please. Those methods—
particularly the second one are slightly unnecessary in this day and age.)
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