Skincare Decoded. Victoria Fu
and people with SC
conditions such as
eczema.
Those sensitized by
sulfate surfactants. If
youʼre not sure, look for
extra dryness
postcleansing.
Ironically, this can be
an allergen for some.
Those who enjoy a
good, luxurious foam.
Surfactants in this
category are usually low
to no foam.
Sodium hydroxide or
potassium hydroxide
will be high up on the
ingredient lists. These
are chemicals that turn
fatty acids into soap!
SLS (sodium lauryl
sulfate) and SLES (sodium
laureth sulfate) are the
two main surfactants in
this category. SLES is the
more skin-friendly option
of the two.
The official name of this
surfactant is “cocoam-
idopropyl betaine,” but
sometimes we chemists
get lazy and will call it “coco
betaine” for short.
SCI (sodium cocoyl
isethionate), glucosides
(coco glucoside, lauryl
glucosides),
cocoamphoacetates,
and amino acids are
common ingredients
in this category. They
usually come together in
a bundle deal!
SKINCARE DECODED • 40 CLEANSERS • 41
Cleanser Tip 2: Consider the pH
If you’re sensitive, or have chronically dry skin, psoriasis, or eczema, it never
hurts to double-check the pH of your cleanser. Your skin’s natural acidity (usually
hanging out in the pH 5.5 neighborhood) is an important part of its microbiome
and general health. Though scientists don’t yet fully understand the complexities
of the microbiome and skin pH, try to reach for cleansers with a listed skin-
friendly pH (roughly, anything under 6).
But is pH the be-all and end-all? Actually, healthy skin has the ability to
self-regulate pH. So, if you have normal, healthy skin but use a high-pH
cleanser that you love, don’t freak out! pH is a much more important
consideration for those with compromised skin.
EXPENSIVE CLEANSERS
One of our pet peeves is those ridiculously expensive cleansers you see in some
department stores. You know the ones: fancy packaging, big price tag, claims to be made
with concentrated mermaid tears and promises to wash away your wrinkles and sins.
Ridiculous claims are everywhere in skincare, but we find them most eye-roll-worthy
in cleansers. Assuming for a second that they did infuse their cleanser with a Fountain
of Youth distillate, cleansers are just not really a good way to deliver all that anti-aging
goodness into your skin. Remember, a cleanser’s job is to take things off, not to add on.
Regular priced cleansers with normal ingredients will do the job just fine.
CHEMIST CONFESSIONS: SHOPPING TIP
SKINCARE DECODED • 40 CLEANSERS • 41
Cleanser Tip 3: Boost Your Cleansing Power
So, you have found the perfect staple cleanser that doesn’t strip or irritate your
skin, but you are just not really confident that you’re cleansing thoroughly
enough. What can you do to boost cleansing power without irritating skin?
1. Consider double cleansing: Double cleansing is the method where you start
with an oil cleanser, then finish with a gentle cream or gel cleanser. The oil
is a cleanser that helps remove all your dirt, grime, and even makeup. The
staple cleanser then helps take off any excess grease from the oil cleanser.
2. Consider a cleansing device: Cleansing brushes are great additions to your
routine that can help your gentle cleanser go further. Sonic brushes are one
of the most rigorously tested and validated options you can get—but also
the priciest. There are cheaper bristled alternatives, silicone brushes, and
nonbattery options as well. Just remember, gentle bristles are the way to go!
CLARISONIC CLEANSING
There are a lot of crazy claims out there. Most of you probably already raise your eyebrows
at words like “542% more radiant!” or “Turn back time!” But once in a while, there are
surprising details and interesting studies behind otherwise nutty-sounding claims.
Clarisonic’s team has actually done quite a few interesting studies around their brushes. In
one, testers applied concentrated amounts of dirt and grime to their face, then compared
cleansing efficiency with and without the brush. This study validated that cleansing is much
more thorough with a sonic brush. Now, where did that Clarisonic charger go . . .
DECODE That Claim
SKINCARE DECODED • 42 CLEANSERS • 43
Troubleshooting Your Routine
A
re you still feeling lost? Listed below are some suggested routines for your
consideration based on your lifestyle.
Makeup junkie? If you use long-wear makeup, we recommend double
cleansing. Start your cleansing routine with a makeup-removing
cleanser (which can be anything from a bi-phase cleanser to an oil
cleanser or cleansing balm) and then finish off with a second, gentle
cleanser to ensure that your skin is a solid, clean slate!
Always on the go? If you’re constantly on the go or traveling, consider
makeup wipes as a quick skin refresher. You can also toss a micellar
water in your gym bag for a quick, post-workout cleanse.
A sensitive skin type? If you have sensitive skin, search for a pH-
friendly cleanser, and then try to narrow it down to the cleanser
surfactants