Walking and Trekking in the Sierra Nevada. Richard Hartley
of the Vega de Granada, while in the east the mountains drop down to merge with the arid desert badlands of Tabernas in Almería. To the north west the hills of the Sierra de Huétor merge into the dry plains around Guadix and Baza to the east; and to the south the Sierra Nevada drops down into the hills of the Alpujarras, a mix of whitewashed villages and lush green valleys fed by the waters of the Sierra Nevada.
The area is very accessible, being only a two-hour drive from the sun-drenched beaches of the Costa del Sol. Despite this it sees relatively few visitors to its slopes, apart from at weekends and during fiestas (public holidays) in summer, when the locals enjoy the high mountains. That is, of course, part of the attraction. So close to Africa and the costas and yet so wild and inhospitable. The contrast couldn’t be more marked.
There is tremendous scope here for those who prefer their mountains wild and dramatic, as this guidebook will attempt to demonstrate. Yes, it has its trade routes – especially around the easily accessible peaks of Mulhacén (highest) and Veleta (easiest access). Once the decision has been made to venture away from these, and especially during the week, the area has much to commend it for the seeker of solitude – and especially for multi-day wild camping.
The guide describes routes of varying degrees of difficulty, from easy half-day jaunts and day trips through to tough multi-day treks. Although most are high-level routes in the Sierra Nevada, there are some superb lower-level alternatives that should not be overlooked. These include eight walks in the delightful Cumbres Verdes and Dílar valley hills just south east of Granada. There are also five high mountain scrambles for the more adventurous.
Plants and wildlife
The Sierra Nevada has some of the most exceptional and unique varieties of plant and animal life in the western Mediterranean area. Living conditions are difficult for these species because of the extremes of temperatures and weather.
Plants
The estrella de las nieves, or ‘star of the snows’ (Plantago nivalis) (Photo: Kiersten Rowland); the endangered Sierra Nevada poppy (Papaver lapeyrousianum)
Some 116 of the region’s 2100 catalogued plants are threatened, and 80 of these are endemic to the Sierra Nevada massif.
Sierra chamomile (Artemisia granatensis) is endemic and is on the critical list due to years of being over-collected for its reported healing properties. Another endangered species is the Sierra Nevada poppy (Papaver lapeyrousianum), which can only be found in certain areas close to the summit of Mulhacén.
Some of the most fragile and unique ecosystems in the mountain range are the borreguiles (high meadows) – home to many of the endemic species, where 35% of the plant species are not found anywhere else in the world. During the spring you’ll find a beautiful carpet of alpine flowers and the only carnivorous plant that grows in the Sierra Nevada: the Sierra Nevada Tirana (Pinguicula nevadensis), which grows in the wettest areas above 2500m. Depending on snow melt, it blooms in July and catches insects with its sticky leaves.
Probably the most emblematic plant of the Sierra Nevada is the estrella de las nieves (‘star of the snows’; Plantago nivalis), which has a legend of being the flower of eternal love.
The wide range in altitude here results in two major forest zones: a conifer zone, typical of the higher elevations (1200m–2500m), and a mixed broadleaf zone occuring at mid and lower levels. The park is home to such tree species as Salzmann pine (Pinus nigra), Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), and Maritime pine (Pinus pinaster).
Birds
The colourful bee-eater is found in the lower slopes of the Alpujarras from spring to autumn (Photo: Kiersten Rowland)
In 2017 it was estimated that over 60 species of bird live in the Sierra Nevada. Birds of prey commonly seen include the golden eagle, Bonelli’s eagle, short-toed and booted eagles. Many smaller species such as kestrels, peregrine falcons and goshawks are also frequently spotted.
Griffon vultures are common and seemingly dominate the skies from late spring to autumn. The vulture is nature’s natural dustbin-cleaner and does a superb job of clearing the land of unwanted carcasses. The successful reintroduction of the lammergeier (bearded vulture) in a nearby mountain range means there’s a chance you’ll see one of these beautiful rare vultures visiting the Sierra Nevada.
The friendly alpine accentor is found above 2000m and seems to like the Mulhacén summit area in particular in summer. It is mainly resident but winters more widely at lower latitudes.
Skylark, red-billed chough, wheatear and rock thrush are some of the few non-raptors that can be seen, and the ring ouzel visits in winter.
Animals, reptiles and insects
A fine example of a macho Spanish ibex (Cabra Montés) (Photo: Nick Cranham)
Mammals to be spotted in the Sierra Nevada area include the Spanish ibex (of which there is a thriving population, although it is now facing threats from illegal hunting and the fatal disease of sarcoptic mange), fox, wildcat, martens, snow vole and wild boar.
Large solitary feline prints have been seen in the snow at 3000m; Lynx are known to frequent the Sierra Arana just north east of Granada, and while it is not inconceivable that they travel south, locals suggest the prints are more likely to be those of a wildcat.
Snakes including the ladder snake, horseshoe whip snake and Lataste’s viper can be encountered (see ‘General hazards’). Lizards will often be seen sunning themselves on the trails. The ocellated lizard was once traditional cuisine, but is now protected.
There are 270 unique species of insect, with over 100 endemic to these mountains. Most have adapted their life cycles to the extreme conditions; many have become darker, thicker and wingless, such as the endangered saddle bush-cricket.
The Sierra Nevada blue and the Apollo (considered an important endemic species), two of the 120 of butterfly species recorded in the region, are also endangered.
Climate and conditions
Stunning views from Puerto Molina (Route 5)
Misjudgment of the weather tends to be due to the changing of the seasons and the related mountain risks that brings. Traditionally, autumn and spring are the most unpredictable times, as it may be t-shirt and shorts weather on the Costa Tropical, yet people could well be fighting blizzard conditions at 3000m. A fine day on the coast can lead unprepared and ill-equipped people into the mountains.
Strangely enough, winter is more predictable. Most mountain-goers recognise the severe weather potential, and that at a bare minimum it will be very cold and windy. The Sierra Nevada does provide some reliable snow cover in the mountains from December to May.
Summer generally offers fine weather for high-level walking and trekking, when it is possible to travel light save for clothing required for the odd afternoon thunderstorm or cooling breezes.
One of the major benefits of the Sierra Nevada is the stability of its climate. Big high-pressure systems sit over the area for months at a time in summer, and sometimes for long periods during the winter months too. The downhill ski resort is said to be the sunniest ski resort in the world. Winter is the most unsettled and wettest period, though, and when bad weather does come in you can expect it to be generally heavy, violent and short-lived.
There are huge differences in temperature between the various seasons. At 3000m in January and February the air temperature (without wind chill) can frequently dip below -10ºC. In July and August a normal daytime temperature at 3000m would be 15–20ºC. This huge variability – not only between the seasons but also the tremendous altitude differences between the high mountains and