Walking and Trekking in the Sierra Nevada. Richard Hartley
towns in the region have official campsites nearby. These have organised facilities and are somewhat ‘luxurious’. Not all are open year-round so it’s advisable to check locally. (See Appendix B.) In addition, tents can become rather too hot for comfort in the long hot summers – and conversely, very cold in the winter months when valley temperatures can drop below freezing.
Guarded refuges
Refugio Poqueira in the depths of winter
There are two guarded refuges in the range: Refugio Poqueira, which is open all year, and Refugio Postero Alto whose opening depends on the season. See Appendix B for further details.
Reciprocal rights at the guarded refuges
Major alpine clubs have reciprocal rights for reduced overnight and meal fees. These include the Federación Andaluza de Montanismo, Austrian Alpine Club, Deutscher Alpenverein, Club Alpin Français, Italian Alpine Club and Club Alpin Swiss. A full list can be found on the Refugio Poqueira website: www.refugiopoqueira.com/tarifas-refugio-2015/
The affiliations normally run for a calendar year and are very good value. On showing your affiliated card, the price of a night’s accommodation at the Refugio Poqueira hut is substantially reduced. Note that the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) does not have reciprocal rights with Andalucian refuges.
Refugio de Poqueira (Routes 6, 7, 8, 9, 32)
An excellent guarded refuge with 85 beds open all year and an excellent meal service, it lies on a small plateau at 2500m just south east of the Río Mulhacén. It is affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo and has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs. It’s essential to reserve well in advance.
Normal winter access is recommended from Capileira (Cebadilla Eléctrica) and via the more sheltered Barranco de Poqueira. Early or late season access in calm conditions can also be made from the acequias (irrigation channel) route or from the Hoya del Portillo.
The Refugio Poqueira website (www.refugiopoqueira.com) gives a very useful weekly report on the status of the unguarded refugios Vivac La Caldera and Villavientos, along with important information about the current snow and mountain conditions.
Refugio Postero Alto (Routes 29, 31)
This refuge makes a very convenient start-point and is ideally placed to access the first northerly 3000m+ peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It lies at the foot of the Picón de Jérez at 1900m and is good for accessing Barranco del Alhorí, the northern Sierra Nevada, and indeed the ‘Los Tres Miles’ Integral (Route 31).
The refuge is open at weekends and during fiesta holidays (Easter, Christmas, New Year); otherwise there’s a winter quarters that is always open and available. Facilities include a canteen, bar, hot water plus heating in all rooms. Sleeps 64.
It’s affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo, which has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs (see above). Reservation in advance is essential and can be done online at www.refugioposteroalto.es/reservar/
A useful service offering transfers from Jérez del Marquesado to the refuge in 4WD vehicles has recently started: www.refugioposteroalto.es/traslados-en-4x4/
Unguarded refuges
Refugio Elorrieta; Refugio Peña Partida; Refugio Cucaracha (Photo: Victoria Bocanegra Montañes); Refugio Cebollar
These are simple shelters and sleeping arrangements are basic. They are possibly most useful in the winter months when you’re carrying the extra weight of winter equipment. The more modern and populated ones have elevated wooden boards to sleep on, and at worst you’ll have to sleep on a concrete floor. Take an insulated sleeping mat and sleeping bag, along with a stove, food and fuel. Nearby water sources are indicated below, but in winter months snow for melting is usually close to hand. Make sure you overestimate the amount of fuel required to melt snow.
There is no booking system in place for these refuges: they operate on a first come, first served basis. Bear this in mind on Friday and Saturday evenings throughout the year, when the popular refuges (Carihuela, Caldera, Refugio Forestal de Loma Pela and Caballo) will get busy with locals. On these nights you can expect late arrivals, with locals having finished work earlier in the day. Try to remain calm as they chat, eat, drink and snore their way through the night. Some good ear plugs are advised!
Many of the unguarded refuges hold a lot of history, dating back to Franco’s early days and a plan to reforest the Sierra Nevada. There are actually many more refuges hidden away, but many of these are uninhabitable or in complete ruin.
The refuges below are listed in the order that they appear in this guide. For grid references and additional details, see Appendix B.
Refugio Horcajo (Route 3)
Situated at 2220m, 3hr from Trevélez above the Río Trevélez junction with the Río Juntillas and Río Puerto de Jérez. Sleeps 8 on concrete floors. The refuge is in a reasonable state, with water available close by from Barranco del Sabinar.
Refugio Vivac La Caldera (Routes 6, 7, 8, 23, 31, 35, 36)
Located at 3100m just east of Laguna de la Caldera, west of Mulhacén, this refuge is useful for access to Mulhacén, Alcazaba and Puntal de la Caldera. Sleeps 16. It’s in a good state with wooden boards for sleeping on. Water can be accessed at the lake of the same name just west of the refuge.
Refugio Forestal Loma Pela (also known as Refugio Villavientos)
On the south side of Loma Pelada, at an altitude of 3090m, this is useful for access to Mulhacén, Alcazaba and Puntal de la Caldera. The refuge is in a very good state and makes a convenient alternative to Refugio Caldera on busy weekends. Sleeps 8. The only downside is that there is no water source close by, so all water must be carried in.
Refugio Forestal Loma de Cañar (Cebollar) (Route 10)
Situated at 2500m on a beautiful alpine meadow, this refuge has its own spring close by that never seems to dry up. It’s worth a visit and an overnight stay if possible. The refuge itself is a bit rough but reasonably comfortable – although the roof does leak a bit. Sleeps 10. Good for an ascent of Tajos de los Machos or a winter outing thereabouts.
Refugio de Ventura (Routes 11, 24, 31)
At the top edge of the forest by the path descending from Cerro del Caballo, the building is partially ruined and should only be used in an emergency, as it’s only an hour to a road trailhead or a 3hr walk down to Lanjarón. There is no convenient water source.
Refugio del Caballo (Routes 11, 24, 31)
This one-room bivouac hut takes the form of a small, semi-cylindrical domed shelter and is located at an altitude of 2860m next to the Laguna del Caballo at the base of the north east face of Cerro del Caballo. Sleeps 8. In the summer of 2011 the ‘Acción Sierra Nevada’ initiative (www.accionsierranevada.org) installed a door, painted the inside, put in a window and cleaned the refuge from top to bottom. Work to the roof in 2014 has improved it as a suitable winter shelter. The lake a few metres west meets all water requirements.
Refugio Elorrieta (Routes 21, 24, 31)
The Elorrieta Refuge is located at 3197m, south west of the Tajos de la Virgen ridge. It was built between 1931 and 1933 and named in honour of the Director General