Walking and Trekking in the Sierra Nevada. Richard Hartley
of the place!
Month by month
High on the west ridge, looking back to the peak of Boca de la Pesca (Route 17)
January and February have many cold, clear and sunny days but there always exists the possibility of some days with heavy snowfalls. Temperatures will be at their lowest in the mountains and so these months tend to provide extensive icing together with short daylight hours. Crampons and ice axe, and the ability to use them correctly, are essential.
March and April provide longer days and slightly warmer temperatures. History shows a week of prolonged bad weather during March or April. This late-season snowfall has the advantage of extending the snow and snowshoeing season well into May. Winter hillwalking can be excellent during these months. Crampons and ice axe are essential.
May can provide great snow-walking opportunities, although the snow pack softens markedly after midday. The snows are retreating fast up the mountain now and some routes to 3000m peaks are likely to be clear. There is still some risk of heavy rain showers, lessening towards the end of the month. Some sections of old hard snow will remain at the end of May, possibly necessitating the use of crampons for safe passage. Where such sections exist, notes are given in the route descriptions.
June until end of October provides generally stable mountain conditions. Sunny and warm, this period is especially suited to those looking for hot summer walking under clear blue skies. Walkers can travel light, with water being the heaviest and arguably the most necessary item in the rucksack. It is important to stay protected from the sun’s ultraviolet rays and to keep fully hydrated. During these months the heat can give rise to violent but short afternoon storms.
Showers and thunderstorms can move north from Morocco with plumes of very warm air. These, more often than not, are mid-level or high-level showers with bases around 3000m, sometimes below. The thunderstorms are triggered by the topography and movement over the mountains rather than being surface- and convection-based.
The weather phenomenon known as a gota fría (the cold drop) can occur in the autumn due to a mix of warm and cold air fronts. It is associated with extremely violent downpours, hail and storms, and can see wind speeds of over 100km/hour. Thankfully these are short-lived and not too common outbursts.
The first major snowfalls can arrive between the end of October and the end of November, and further falls in December will generally consolidate the snow pack for the remainder of the winter. In lean years it will be January before this consolidation process has occurred. This period provides very changeable weather and ground conditions: winter one day, spring the next, and back to autumn on day three.
Winter influences
The northern and eastern aspect of the Cerro del Caballo, seen from the east (Route 12)
From the west – fronts come in bringing wet weather, falling as snow on high ground above 2000m. This can bring heavy early-season powder, which usually means great news for the skiers but is not so good for road access into the mountains – nor for winter hillwalking, as it may necessitate the use of snowshoes and make things very arduous.
From the north, north east or north west – when these fronts arrive it will be very cold with overnight temperatures between -10ºC and -20ºC at 3000m. Needless to say the wind chill at these times can be arctic. Snow may fall down to 1000m and very occasionally below this.
From the south – the approach of a southerly front is followed by a quick increase in temperatures, bringing possible rain or a thaw at high altitudes. After the front has passed and the temperatures return to normal, the whole of the Sierra Nevada will become a ‘block of ice’, leading to potentially very dangerous conditions.
From the east – these fronts are infrequent but wet and give heavy snowfalls, especially to the eastern Sierra Nevada.
Getting to the Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada is very accessible and makes a good destination for last-minute weekend or short breaks as it is close to major airports and fast motorway networks.
Airports
Granada has the closest airport to the range, being only a 1hr drive from the ski area, and is very accessible for the Cumbres Verdes which are on its doorstep. Lanjarón, at the entrance to the Alpujarra, is only 45min away. Capileira, in the heart of the Alpujarra, is 1hr 45min away by car.
At the present time (2017) few airlines go there, besides Iberia/BA and Vueling. The only direct flights from the UK are from London City Airport (British Airways) and from Manchester and London Gatwick (Easyjet). These are not daily flights, though, so you would need to check with the airline direct.
Málaga airport is a 1hr 30min drive away with very easy and fast motorway links to Granada and Lanjarón. There is a huge selection of low-cost daily flights available from most major European departure airports.
Almería provides very easy access to Granada via the A-92 motorway in only 1hr 30min. Fewer flights arrive there than at Málaga, but it is a useful destination if walking in the eastern section of the range.
Getting around
The walking section after the initial buttress on the Espolón de Alcazaba (Route 34)
There is an excellent bus service run by Alsina Graells, based in Granada, between all major towns and villages in the area. Bus travel is cheap but takes longer than a car and has only a limited number of services each day, depending on destination. Check www.alsa.es/en/ for the latest timetables.
Car travel between access points is quick and easy, with fast and relatively traffic-free motorways stretching from near Jérez de Marquesado (A-92 Granada to Almería) to near Lanjarón (A-44 Granada to Motril). The beautiful road through the Alpujarra from Lanjarón to Trevélez (A-4132) is well maintained. Allow an hour between these two towns.
There is no train access around the national park, although Granada links to the major cities of Madrid, Sevilla and Málaga.
Summer ski lift
From late June until the end of August or beginning of September the ski area normally opens a gondola and a chairlift above the ski town of Pradollano. This allows you to travel from the town at 2000m to the cool air of nearly 3000m in 30min. The drop-off point is at the top of the Veleta chairlift, a 15min walk from Posiciones del Veleta. Access to the higher walking trails is very easy from here, but bear in mind that many others will be also treading the trail to Veleta and Mulhacén this way. An early start is recommended. Check www.sierranevada.es/en/ for up-to-date opening times and prices. (It’s worth noting that the price for a ticket includes the upward and return journey but only for the same day. There are differing price structures if you intend to camp out and come back the following day. Inquire at the ticket office in Pradollano.)
Bus
Autobus Hoya de la Mora 2500m – Posiciones del Veleta 3100m
This service operates from June until mid September – or longer if demand and weather conditions allow. It departs from the Albergue de Granada, just below the Hoya de la Mora above the Pradollano ski station, and drops off just below Posiciones del Veleta. There are numerous daily journeys. It is essential to reserve in advance: tel +34 671 56 44 07 or email [email protected]
Autobus Capileira 1436m – Alto del Chorrillo 2700m
This