The Wild Atlantic Way and Western Ireland. Tom Cooper
football and hurling are the two most popular sports in Ireland. Both are fast and skilful games where endurance also counts. Gaelic football is a little like a cross between rugby and soccer, played on a pitch with H-shaped goals. Hurling is a stick-and-ball game played on the same pitch. The hurling stick is axe-shaped and the game far more aerial and physical than games like hockey.
Irish music
For visitors, the most common place to hear Irish traditional music is the pub. In fact some areas, such as Doolin in County Clare, seem to be building a tourist industry based almost entirely on pub music. It always pays to ask for local advice about the best venues.
Getting there
By air
The major international airports are Dublin, Shannon (near Limerick) and Belfast (Belfast International and Belfast City). Shannon is within a few kilometres of the routes in this book. Of the smaller airports, Derry/Londonderry, Cork, Knock in County Mayo, and Kerry airport offer good access to the Wild Atlantic Way. Donegal also has an airport, at Carrickfinn, near Dungloe, which currently has a handful of flights per day, mainly to Dublin.
Flying with a bike throws up no difficulties peculiar to Ireland. Most airlines will charge a special baggage fee for a bike, which will usually have to be paid at the time of booking. The bare minimum to pack a bike for flying is to take off or reverse the pedals, turn the handlebars sideways, let down the tyres, and lower the seat and handlebar stem. The bike will have to be packed, at the very least, in something to protect other baggage from the oily parts – such as an all-enclosing plastic bag. A bike-sized cardboard box (these are freely given away at most bike shops) can be used for better protection. Check ahead with the airline for packing requirements. Then arrive early, be relaxed and friendly with the check-in staff, whatever happens, and – just in case of a mishap – be insured.
Dublin airport is some 10km north of the city centre. The ride into town is along busy main roads and requires extreme care, especially if you are tired after a long flight. It is also not currently well signed for cyclists but the situation should improve. Check the Transport for Ireland journey planner for up-to-date directions (www.journeyplanner.transportforireland.ie).
By sea
Ferries can be a practical and economical way of getting to the Emerald Isle but the only ferry port with good access to the Wild Atlantic Way is Cork and that is currently only served with ferries from France. However, there are rail connections from both Dublin and Belfast (see below). The easiest way to get from Dublin Port to the heart of the city is to ride – follow the city centre signs until you reach the north shore of the Liffey where you can pick up the cycle path.
For ferry company contact details, see Appendix A.
Getting to the Wild Atlantic Way
If you arrive in Dublin there are direct rail connections to Cork, Galway, Sligo and Westport. A change of trains may be needed to reach Limerick, Tralee or Ballina in County Mayo. If arriving in Belfast there are regular rail services to Derry/Londonderry. Dublin has two main railway stations. If you are heading to Cork, Limerick, Tralee, Killarney, Galway, Westport or Ballina you will need to go to Dublin Heuston, which is a couple of kilometres west of the town centre on the south bank of the river Liffey. For services to Sligo or Belfast (with onward connections to Derry/Londonderry) go the more central Connolly Station, on the north side of the river a few hundred metres inland from the landmark Customs House.
Public transport options around the capital are limited if you have a bike with you. Only folded cycles are allowed on suburban tram system (the Luas) and on city buses. You can take a cycle on the suburban train network (DART) between 10am and 4pm on weekdays and any time at weekends.
Visas
At the time of writing, citizens of European Union countries and most Western countries do not require a visa to enter Ireland or Northern Ireland. Non-UK or non-Irish nationals do require a passport or national identity card. But all these arrangements are subject to change following the UK’s 2016 decision to leave the EU. UK citizens currently do not, strictly speaking, need a passport to enter the Republic of Ireland (Northern Ireland is part of the UK in any case), but most carriers (air and sea) insist on valid photographic ID for security reasons.
Northern Ireland Visa Information: www.gov.uk/check-uk-visa
Republic of Ireland Visa Information: www.dfa.ie/travel/visas
Packed and ready to fly – George Best International Airport; Irish mainline trains have cycle spaces that should be booked in advance
Getting around
See Appendix A for contact information for public transport operators.
Trains
In the Irish Republic, booked bicycles are carried free on nearly all inter-city rail services (with some peak-time restrictions) although there is limited space (usually three or four cycles). Cycle reservations should be made at the same time as buying passenger tickets on the Irish Rail website (www.irishrail.ie). For the latest information follow the ‘Travel Information’ then ‘Bicycle Information’ links from the Irish Rail home page.
In Northern Ireland, public transport comes under the Translink banner. On trains, cycles are carried free on all services after 9.30am.
Buses
In the Republic, Bus Éireann will carry bicycles in the bus luggage compartment if there is space. If you are leaving from a bus station, buy a ticket before boarding, as well as a separate ticket for the bike. In rural areas, during the day and during the week, many services are nearly empty. If there is just one or two of you, a bus hop is a practical way of extending your range, and the network is comprehensive.
In Northern Ireland, buses also come under the Translink umbrella. Up to two cycles can be carried in the luggage bay of express services (called Goldline Express) after 9.30am, but again this is subject to space. There are no reservations.
When to go
My favourite months for cycling in Ireland are May, June and September. Experience and the statistics suggest that May and June, especially in the north, are as dry as, if not drier than, the rest of the summer, while September is a golden month in which to watch the harvest and notice the first colours of autumn in the trees.
The Irish tourist season effectively runs from Easter to the end of September, and that is the practical limit for cycle touring too. Outside these months, the weather is too cold and unreliable, the days too short, and campsites and some other types of accommodation close.
Tourist numbers peak during July and August. Travelling at peak times is not a problem – it just pays to plan ahead a little more, as accommodation can fill up.
The Spanish Armada ship La Trinidad Valencera was wrecked off Kinnagoe Bay on 16 September 1588 (Route 1, Stage 1)
Accommodation
Hostels
Official Irish youth hostels are run by An Óige. A membership card is not required, although a card from an affiliated youth hostel association usually secures a small discount. Many youth hostels have closed in recent years, and there are gaps in the network, but independent hostels have stepped into the breach.
There are two associations of independent hostels in Ireland: the Independent Holiday Hostels of Ireland (IHH) and the Independent Hostels of Ireland (IHI). An Óige and