The Wild Atlantic Way and Western Ireland. Tom Cooper
peninsula and southern and central sections of the Inveragh peninsula (the ‘Ring of Kerry’). In all these places it is common to hear Gaelic spoken in streets, shops and pubs.
In the Irish-speaking parts of Ireland expect signs in Irish Gaelic
In the Gaeltacht the Irish language traffic signs might confuse you a little at first but the intent is usually clear. In other areas, both the Irish and Anglicised names are usually signed. Most maps have both versions of the name.
Visitors for whom English is not a first language find the Irish accent difficult to begin with – but this passes quite quickly. Similarly, speakers of English as spoken in England, the US and elsewhere, might initially have to try to speak clearly to be well understood.
See Appendix B for a useful Gaelic–English glossary and some phrases to try in Gaelic.
Money
Cash
The currency in the Republic of Ireland is the euro. Northern Ireland uses the pound sterling. In border areas, many businesses will take notes in either currency, but you will tend to get change in the local denomination.
Cash is still the most convenient way to pay for small transactions on the island. Paying cash will also keep down foreign currency transaction charges – if your card-issuer levies them.
Cash points are still rare enough in rural areas to make running out of cash a real possibility. Carrying enough money for at least the next four or five days is advisable. Service stations and shops often have ATMs, as do local branches of banks, although these are increasingly rare. The Plus/Visa and Cirrus/Mastercard-linked ATMs are the widespread ones, and UK travellers generally have no problems accessing cash from their home accounts through debit cards.
Whatever card you have, check the charges your bank will levy, and at the same time, check your card will be accepted in ATMs. If travelling both sides of the border, it is worth emphasising when you enquire that you need the card to work in both Ireland and the UK.
Fort Dunree stands guard over the entrance to Lough Swilly (Route 1, Stage 3)
Credit and debit cards
Visa and Mastercard credit and debit cards are widely accepted in shops and hotels. Hostels almost always take cards, and sometimes ask for a card number to secure a booking. B&Bs and campsites are more likely to strongly prefer cash.
Budgets
If you are extremely frugal, it is just possible to tour the Republic of Ireland for €30–35 a day if camping or €50 a day in hostels. This is an absolute minimum, and assumes you self-cater and stay away from fast food. Since B&Bs will cost from €35 (per person sharing), and you will also have to buy an evening meal and food during the day, €80 is a more realistic absolute minimum daily budget for B&B travellers. If you are staying in hotels and eating out you might just get away with €150 per day each if you share a room. A double room in a modern hotel during the summer will cost around €130. A single room will not be much cheaper. At smaller, usually older, hotels you may find double rooms from €80 or so.
Post, phones and internet
Post
The rural post office network is clinging on in rural Ireland although opening hours are often short and sometimes only a couple of days a week. On most days you will pass through at least one small town with a post office: look for a ‘Post’ sign on a green background.
For postal rates see www.anpost.ie or www.royalmail.com for Northern Ireland.
Phones
Ireland: international code +353
Northern Ireland: international code +44
international prefix (north and south) 00
The Irish phone system is complicated by the fact you are dealing with two countries with two international codes. The numbers in the text assume you are calling from within the country in question – for example Republic of Ireland from Republic of Ireland. When dialling from the Republic of Ireland to a fixed line in Northern Ireland, the 028 code is replaced with 048. This does not work calling mobiles – use the full international code and prefix. When calling from Northern Ireland to the Republic, dial the full international prefix and code.
Calling Republic of Ireland numbers
The Dublin Visitor Centre’s number is 01 8980700, so:
from Northern Ireland or elsewhere in UK dial 00 353 1 8980700
from the Republic of Ireland dial 01 8980700
from overseas dial local international prefix + 353 1 8980700.
Calling Northern Ireland numbers
For example, the Belfast Welcome Centre number is 028 90246609, so:
from Northern Ireland or elsewhere in UK dial 028 90246609
from the Republic of Ireland dial 048 90246609
from overseas dial local international prefix +44 28 90246609.
The traditional Irish farmhouse is increasingly hard to find (Route 1, Stage 2)
Mobile phones
A mobile phone is the most convenient and often the cheapest way to stay in touch when in Ireland. In the Republic the major networks are Meteor, Three and Vodafone. Coverage is almost universal although there are a few blank spots on hill-bound coasts. Northern Ireland is covered by UK operators. If you are bringing a phone from overseas check it is compatible with Irish networks. Some US network phones, for example, will not work.
Mobile phone rates are now capped for EU travellers travelling within the EU but beware that if your home network is outside of Europe these EU-imposed limits for call and data charges may not apply.
Getting your phone unlocked, to work on any network, before you travel gives you the option of buying a SIM card in Ireland. Check out the prices and do the sums, but for most UK and EU travellers their existing phone/SIM will be the best option.
Don’t forget mobile charger and plug adaptor if you need it – all of Ireland has UK-style three-pin plug sockets.
Payphones
Phone boxes have almost completely disappeared from Ireland but If you happen to pass one, calls cost €2 minimum.
Internet
3G mobile data services are assured in most towns. In some rural areas coverage is patchy. 4G networks are being rolled out. WiFi hotspots are easy to find in major centres with cafés, restaurants and transport hubs often having free access. Most tourist accommodation will also have free or cheap WiFi access. Internet cafés have almost completely disappeared so take some sort of device – a laptop, mobile or tablet – with you if you want to be sure you can connect to make, for example, travel bookings.
Cycling in Ireland
Traffic and driving
Ireland has speed limits and distance signs in kilometres. The start of Route 1 is in Northern Ireland which uses miles. The signage scheme is different in the two countries, but similar enough to not cause any confusion.
In both countries, motorways have an M prefix and cycles are not allowed on these roads.
In the Republic there are national ‘N’ roads (100km/h limit), regional ‘R’ roads (80km/h) and local roads (also 80km/h). There is a general limit