The Wild Atlantic Way and Western Ireland. Tom Cooper
Speed limits are widely ignored unless there is a chance of getting caught. N roads are divided into primary and secondary routes, with a figure higher than 50 (eg N87) indicating a secondary route.
Cycling on N roads can be quick, but there is generally too much fast, heavy traffic to make this a comfortable experience. Some of the R roads are just as bad. The few N road sections in this book are either in quiet areas, or are short, unavoidable stretches.
The routes in this book are built, where possible, around local roads. Typically these are not quite wide enough for two cars to pass without slowing down. They are sealed (tarmac) roads. The quality of the surface varies considerably. Irish roads often break up or suffer subsidence on their edges. Always keep an eye out for potholes, especially on steep descents – if you hit them at speed they can throw you off your bike.
Smaller roads all over Ireland are generally not well graded (that is, they have many short and steep climbs). In some areas this can make for rollercoaster roads, and very slow progress.
Dedicated cycle tracks are most often encountered leading into towns and cities but these are often only separated from the traffic with a painted line. Cycle tracks are generally marked with a cycle symbol painted on the road or pavement surface or, less commonly, with a round blue sign with a white cycle symbol.
Author riding a new stretch of cycle track between Dungloe and Lettermacaward (Route 1, Stage 7)
OFFICIAL CYCLE ROUTES IN IRELAND
The Kingfisher Trail (NCN91) was Ireland’s first signed long-distance cycle route and, crossing as it does between Northern Ireland and the Republic, was symbolic of improved cross-border relations in the wake of the Good Friday agreement. It is a figure of eight route following over 360km (230 miles) of minor roads through the border counties of Fermanagh, Leitrim, Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan and can be joined at Beleek, 8km inland from Ballyshannon (on Route 2).
A map of this route and other long-distance routes in Northern Ireland is available from Sustrans (www.sustrans.org.uk).
Greenways are a new arrival on the Irish cycling scene. These are traffic-free routes for cyclists, pedestrians and other users which typically follow the routes of former railway lines. Route 2, Stages 5 and 7 follow the Great Western Greenway to and from Achill Island in County Mayo.
KEY POINTS
Cycling and driving are on the left.
A cycle must have a working bell and a rear reflector.
Stay away from N roads if you can – the ones in this book are unavoidable or not too bad.
Cycling is not allowed on motorways.
Distances and limits are in km in Ireland, miles in Northern Ireland. This book uses km throughout.
For the full rules go to www.rsa.ie and search for ‘Rules of the Road’.
Hazards
Thorn hedges are common in Ireland, particularly in the northern parts. Puncture-resistant tyres are essential – see below. On narrow roads watch out for stray undergrowth catching your legs, arms or, more seriously, your face and eyes. In summer the odd stinging insect might lodge in your clothing, but generally Ireland is pretty low risk for things that bite.
Safety points
Helmets are not compulsory, but are a good idea.
Bright colours are a good idea but there is no need to be fluorescent. It’s a fashion!
Keep left-ish, but staying 1–2m in from the edge of the road will give you a safer road surface and encourage cars to manoeuvre around you.
If cycling at night, lights must be used and it is advisable to wear plenty of reflective gear.
Be sensible about where you ride two abreast.
Pedestrians stepping into the road, or even walking down the middle of it, are a constant hazard – they will just not hear you coming. Be friendly about it. (You’re on holiday!)
Sunburn can get you even on seemingly dull days – wear sunscreen and consider long sleeves.
Carry food, water and a basic first aid kit.
Be prepared for changes in the weather – don’t get cold or soaked through.
The signs on the old Kinsale to Cork road are old enough to be in miles (Route 6, Stage 6)
Security
The following are specific crime points for cyclists.
Bike theft is a real risk in cities and towns.
Lock your bike every time you leave it – theft is unlikely (apart from in the cities), but bikes occasionally get ridden home from the pub (by someone else) and, in any case, losing your cycle will be a complete holiday disaster.
If you have quick-release wheels, make sure your lock secures these too.
Take your valuables in an easily removable bar bag with a shoulder strap and carry it with you. In bigger centres such as Galway, Limerick and Cork, book into your accommodation and secure your bags before exploring around town.
What to take
Bike
Bikes sold as tourers generally have a relaxed frame geometry, good clearances for mudguards and tyres, mounting points for carriers, and low gear ratios. A set of hand-built touring wheels is a good investment, especially for Ireland where the roads are bumpy. Drop handlebars are not for everyone, but they do give a choice of hand positions and can be a godsend in headwinds. Mountain bikes or mountain–road hybrids are also popular for touring, but since most of this book is on sealed roads, make sure suitable road tyres are fitted.
For Irish conditions, 32–42mm (width) tyres are a good compromise between speed and comfort. A puncture resistant Kevlar band is pretty much essential, because of thorns. Schwalbe Marathons (www.schwalbe.com) work well in Ireland: the basic Marathon is a good choice although you might prefer the faster-rolling Marathon Supreme in wider tyre sizes.
Simple is generally best on tour, and in Ireland, if you have the absolute latest in gear, spares might be hard to get hold of. Sticking to 26-inch or 700c wheel sizes will give you the best choice of spares, if you happen to need them.
If you are already used to clipless pedals, systems with small cleats such as the Shimano SPD are efficient touring platforms, and with the right shoes (see below) the cleats are recessed and you can walk normally. Fit two or three water-bottle holders – if your frame does not have the right fixings, brackets are available.
Take cycle lights just in case you get caught out late or you fancy a ride to the pub. If you don’t take lights, pack a torch as rural areas are very dark at night.
Author off the beaten track approaching Cleggan (Route 3, Stage 4)
Spares and repairs
Get your bike into good condition before you leave: anything tired, worn or loose should be sorted out. After that, be sensible about the tools and spares you take. Being self-sufficient is great in principle but heavy in practice, and more weight means more strain for you and the bike. Match the spares and tools you take to your mechanical ability, and remember that Ireland is not a wilderness, and if the worst comes to the worst, you can get the bus to the nearest big town for repairs. Consider taking a spare chain and a spare