Coastal Walks in Andalucia. Guy Hunter-Watts
gate. Go through the gate then, angling right, continue on towards the sea. Ahead you’ll now see the Hotel Palomar de la Breña, marked on some maps as Cortijo y Ermita de la Porquera. After some 350m you reach a group of houses and a breeze block wall. Here angle right then left, passing west of the buildings.
Reaching a fork just beyond an odd hut with a caravan grafted to one side angle left and reaching a junction head straight on along a sandy track which soon angles right towards the sea then passes through another wire-and-post gate marked Cierren La Cancela Por Favor (which may be open). After passing through yet another wire-and-post gate (also sometimes left open) the track hugs the edge of a huge field then after some 650m loops hard right, now descending between thick hedgerows. Sandier and more eroded the track narrows to become a path that shortly crosses a (dry) stream bed. Beyond the stream, climbing steeply, you reach a track and a sign El Palomar de la Breña (1hr 45min).
Wind turbines on the Cerro del Búho
The world’s largest dovecot, El Palomar de la Breña
The dovecot (palomar) that gives its name to the hotel was built in the 18th century and contains 7700 niches, making it the largest in the world. The breeding birds once produced between 10 and 15 tonnes of guano or ‘black gold’ per year which was used to manufacture gunpowder. Additional income was obtained by the sale of the pigeons to the aristocratic families of Cádiz at a time when pigeon was a delicacy only the wealthy could afford. The birds were also caged and taken on board ships bound for the Americas, ensuring a supply of fresh meat even when far from port.
There’s no entrance fee to visit the dovecot but rather a voluntary donation.
From El Palomar de la Breña continue along a broad sandy track which leads to the edge of the forest of the Parque Natural de la Breña. Crossing a cattle grid the track arcs right then merges with a broader track which, running on in a westerly direction, reaches a junction with tarmac road. Here, turning right and crossing another cattle grid, you reach another junction. Here turn left then after 125m cut right at a horse-riding sign for Vejer de la Frontera along a broad track which climbs back towards Vejer.
Leaving the last village houses you reach a fork. Here angling right continue along a narrower track which runs just a few metres to the right of the one you’ve just left. After running back towards the broader track it once more angles right before meeting it once again opposite the gates of Los Altos de Paternilla. Continue along the main track which soon passes between the two lines of wind turbines before you reach the sign you passed earlier in the walk at 50min for El Bosque y Matorral Mediterráneo (2hr 50min).
From here retrace your footsteps back past the last of the wind turbines to reach a group of buildings and a Stop sign. From here you could shorten the walk by returning to Vejer via the same route you followed earlier in the day.
At the Stop sign angle hard left down a broad track. Views open out towards the Atlantic and Conil as you descend past a riding school then a set of gates marked Buena Vista. The track, now with a concreted surface, arcs right then hard back to the left towards a 20km speed limit sign. Here cut right away from the tarmac down a dirt track. Reaching a brown wooden gate follow the track as it angles right then climbs past an ochre-coloured house. After descending, and angling right, the track loops once more left and resumes its former course as it cuts through a thick stand of bamboo.
Windmill to the west of Vejer
Reaching the road that leads from Vejer to Los Caños de Meca, A2230, angle right and follow the road for 350m to reach the roundabout next to Venta Los Olivos. Here, bearing right and passing just right of the restaurant, cross a cattle grid and continue up a farm track that climbs steeply towards Vejer. Angling left past a No Entry sign the track becomes cobbled before it narrows, now more overgrown, before it crosses a wooden footbridge.
Reaching a restored windmill the path levels then angles right to reach the first houses of Vejer where, following a tarmac road, you descend to a junction. Here bear right past a stone arch then follow the road as it arcs left in the direction of a sign marking Centro Ciudad, Zona Monumental. Passing a line of restaurants continue along Calle Corredera then cut right to return to the Plaza de España (5hr).
Spring flowers on the return leg to Vejer
WALK 4
Los Caños de Meca circuit
| Start/finish | Outside Hotel Madreselva in Los Caños de Meca |
| Distance | 18km |
| Ascent/descent | 315m |
| Grade | Medium/Difficult |
| Time | 5hr |
| Refreshments | None en route |
This longish circuit gives you the chance to sample the twin natural habitats that make the Parque Natural de la Breña such a special treat, introducing you to its vast forest of stone pines as well as to the spectacular cliffs which rise 100m above one of the best beaches in Andalucía. The walk begins with a section of forest walking as you follow sandy paths and tracks towards San Ambrosio. Here you can make a detour up to the Torre del Tajo.
After heading on towards Barbate via a broad forestry track you cut south through the stone pines to reach the A2233. Here you have a choice between following a sandy gully to reach the beginning of the cliff path that leads up to the Torre del Tajo – this adds an extra kilometre or so to the walk – or cutting straight through the forest to the Torre.
I’ve graded the walk Medium/Difficult not so much for the distance covered but rather because of the additional effort required when walking on the sandy paths that cut through the Breña forest.
The walk begins in Los Caños de Meca outside Hotel Madreselva which you pass as you head east through the village on the A2233. From here head east past a row of palm trees. Reaching a sign for Barbate/San Ambrosio turn left. The road soon arcs left. Just beyond the km14 sign cut left along a sandy track past a sign Monte Dunas de Barbate. After running west the road arcs right as it passes beneath the Torre de la Meca. Reaching a three-way junction bear right at a sign Prohido Arrojar Basuras passing between two rusting metal posts. The track climbs gently as it runs eastwards: views open out above the treetops. Shortly beyond the top of the rise you pass a sign marking the path up to the Torre de la Meca (45min).
To climb up and down to the tower, waymarked with wooden posts with white arrows, add 40 minutes to these timings and 2 kilometres to the distance.
Just beyond the sign you reach a fork. Heading straight ahead the track passes by several different species of eucalyptus trees: about a dozen are marked with their Latin names. Some 35m before reaching a metal gate and the Majadales del Sol picnic area cut hard left along a sandy track. Continue parallel to the enclosure fence then, reaching a fire break, cut left. Follow the fire break north for 300m then angle right along a narrow path that shortly passes a signboard about Piñares Costeras (1hr 30min) then reaches the edge of the El Jarillo picnic area. Here head straight on between a line of low white marker posts.
Passing stone tables and benches towards a recycling bin you reach a tarmac road. Cutting left along to the road you cross a cattle grid then after some 650m reach a junction where a sign points left for San Ambrosio. Ignoring the sign carry on along the track which arcs right, passes a sign prohibiting access to lorries, then reaches