Coastal Walks in Andalucia. Guy Hunter-Watts
now also offer the menú del día in the evenings. Although you have less choice – generally two or three starters, mains and desserts – the fact that set menus are often prepared on the day, using fresh rather than frozen ingredients, means this can often be the best way to eat.
Expect to pay between €8 and €10 for a three-course set menu which normally includes a soft drink, a beer or a glass of wine. When eating à la carte in most village restaurants you can expect to pay around €20–€25 per head for a three-course meal including beverages, while a tapas-style meal would be slightly less. Tipping after a meal is common although no offence will be taken should you not leave a gratuity when paying smaller sums for drinks at bars.
The southern Spanish eat much later than is the custom in northern Europe. Lunch is not generally available until 2.00pm and restaurants rarely open before 8.00pm. A common lament among walkers is that breakfast is often not served at hotels until 9.00am, although village bars are often open from 8am. If you’re keen to make an early start, pack a Thermos. Most hotels will be happy to fill it the night before, and you can always buy the makings of your own breakfast from a village shop.
Breakfasts in hotels can be disappointing, so I often head out to a local bar. Most serve far better coffee than you’ll get at a hotel, freshly squeezed rather than boxed orange juice, and una tostada con aceite y tomate – toast served with tomato and olive oil – can be a great way to start your walking day.
When shopping for the makings of your picnic, be aware that village shops are generally open from 9.00am–2.00pm and then 5.30pm–8.30pm. Many smaller shops will be happy to make you up a bocadillo or sandwich using the ingredients of your choice.
Language
Visitors to Andalucía often express surprise at how little English is spoken, where even in restaurants and hotels a working knowledge of English is the exception rather than the norm. In addition, the Spanish spoken in southern Spain – Andaluz – can be difficult to understand even if you have a command of basic Spanish: it’s spoken at lightning speed, with the end of words often left unpronounced.
Appendix D offers translation of some key words that you may see on signs or maps or need to ask directions but it’s worth picking up a phrasebook before you travel – and be prepared to gesticulate: you always get there in the end.
Money
Most travellers to Spain still consider that the cost of their holiday essentials – food, travel and accommodation – is considerably lower than in northern Europe. You can still find a decent meal for two, with drinks, for around €30; and €60 should buy you a comfortable hotel room for two.
Nearly every start point village in this guide has an ATM, and where this is absent you’ll generally be able to pay in shops, restaurants and hotels with a credit card (although you may be asked for some form of identity that matches the name on your card). Be aware that you’ll often be asked for your credit card details when booking a hotel room by phone.
Communications
While most of Spain now has good mobile coverage for all major phone operators, there are still a few gaps in some of the coastal valleys – which is exactly where many of these walks will be taking you! Even so, it’s always wise to have a charged phone in your daypack, preloaded with emergency contact numbers (see Appendix B, Useful contacts).
Wifi coverage is available in most hotels and is nearly always free of charge for patrons.
What to take
Cairn at the summit of La Concha (Costa del Sol, Walk 20)
The two most important things to take with you when you walk in Andalucía are:
water – always carry plenty of water. During the warmer months the greatest potential dangers are heat exhaustion and dehydration. Wear loose-fitting clothes and a hat, and keep drinking.
comfortable, broken-in walking boots – no walk is enjoyable when you’ve got blisters.
With safety in mind, you should also carry the following:
hat and sun block
map and compass
Swiss Army Knife or similar
torch and whistle
fully charged mobile phone (even though coverage can be patchy in the mountains)
waterproofs, according to season
fleece or jumper (temperatures can drop rapidly at the top of the higher passes)
first aid kit including antihistamine cream, plasters, bandage, plastic skin for blisters
water purifying tablets
chocolate/sweets or glucose tablets
handheld GPS device (if you have one)
Maps
Under each general section I’ve recommended the best map available for the area, Appendix B includes the full contact details of companies from which you can buy these maps. All of the Spanish retailers will send maps contra reembolso (payment on receipt) to addresses within Spain.
In Andalucía the best places to order maps are LTC in Sevilla (www.ltcideas.es/index.php/mapas) and Mapas y Compañia in Málaga (www.mapasycia.es); in Madrid the best places are La Tienda Verde (www.tiendaverde.es) and Centro Nacional de Información Geográfica (www.cnig.es). In the UK the best place for maps, which can be ordered online, is Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk).
Staying safe
When heading off on any walk, always let at least one person know where you’re going and the time at which you expect to return.
Log the following emergency telephone numbers into your mobile:
112 Emergency services general number
062 Guardía Civil (police)
061 Medical emergencies
080 Fire brigade
In addition to the usual precautions you would take, there are a few things to remember when walking in Andalucía:
Water – be aware that in dry years some of the springs that are mentioned in this guide can slow to little more than a trickle or dry up altogether. Always carry plenty of water. I’d also recommend keeping a supply of water purification tablets in your daypack.
Fire – in the dry months the hillsides of Andalucía become a vast tinderbox. Be very careful if you smoke or use a camping stove.
Hunting areas – signs for ‘coto’ or ‘coto privado de caza’ designate an area where hunting is permitted in season and not that you’re entering private property. Cotos are normally marked by a small rectangular sign divided into a white-and-black triangle.
Close all gates – you’ll come across some extraordinary gate-closing devices! They can take time, patience and effort to open and close.
Using this guide
Waymarking for the local network of footpaths
The 40 walks in this guide are divided into seven sections, each covering a different coastal region of Andalucía. For each region there is a mixture of half-day and full-day walks that will introduce