Coastal Walks in Andalucia. Guy Hunter-Watts
Time
Since 1994 the flat delta at the mouth of the Río Barbate, Las Marismas de Barbate, has formed part of the Natural Park of La Breña. These low-lying marshlands, criss-crossed by water canals, streams and raised tracks, have a bewitching beauty and are home to a richly diverse flora and fauna.
This is one of the best places on the Atlantic Coast for birding: the marshes lie on one of the major migratory routes between northern and central Europe and Africa and are used by birds as a halfway house before and after the journey across the Strait. The birds, both sedentary and migratory, feed on the abundant molluscs and crustaceans of its tidal reedbeds and it’s easy to spot egrets, mallards, grebes and herons as well as several different warblers among the reeds and tamarisk.
The walk is particularly memorable early on an autumn day when the low-lying flora of the Marismas is taking on its autumnal colours and Vejer hovers above the early morning mist. Be aware that parts of the path can be waterlogged after heavy rain.
The walk begins in the car parking area between Las Marismas de Barbate and the A314. There’s a waste treatment plant to one side so you’ll be keen to get moving as quickly as possible. From the car park go through a small black gate to one side of a larger green one, next to a signboard Sendero Marismas de Barbate. Bearing right and adopting a southerly course you’ll immediately begin to spot all kinds of wading birds out in the marshes.
Reaching a fork next to a sign Parque Natural turn left along a track which cuts due east across the marshes for a little over 700m then, just before it reaches the Río Barbate, angles right and runs on close to the looping course of the river. From here there are fine views back across the floodplain to Vejer.
The River Barbate beneath Vejer
The track, bearing right, crosses a bridge and a cattle grid then resumes its course close to the river bank. After angling left and crossing another small bridge it reaches a viewing platform (1hr 15min) with a sign listing the most common birds in the reserve. The track crosses a cattle grid to reach a fork. Here continue straight ahead (unless you wish to shorten the walk in which case turn right) sticking close to the bank of the Río Barbate before reaching a fork just beyond a sluice gate which is to your right. Here cut right and head back to the western edge of the marshes and a group of factory buildings.
Crossing a cattle grid then a small brick bridge (1hr 55min) you reach a junction with a broader track. Turn right and head on towards Vejer. Passing beneath power lines the track arcs left then passes through an enclosure with a group of ramshackle animal pens, passing through gates at either end. Angling right through a grove of eucalyptus trees you reach a fork. Here keep right, sticking to your same course. Soon you pass over a cattle grid where you reach more open countryside.
The marisma’s rich flora and fauna are born of the interplay of salt water from the Atlantic with that of the Rio Barbate’s flood plain. Spoonbills, night heron and osprey are common sightings along with egrets, kestrels, and peregrine falcons. The marshes are also home to a huge variety of wading birds including avocet, black-winged stilt, ringed and Kentish plovers, dunlin and greater flamingos. The birds find rich pickings in the form of wedge clams, cockles and, closer to the ocean, mussels and prawns. Fish species inhabiting the marsh’s saline waters include sole, eel, mullet, bass and gilthead bream.
Spanish terrapin (Mauremys leprosa) in the reed beds
The track narrows down as it runs on between beds of reeds, still heading towards Vejer. Soon the track arcs hard right (2hr 30min) then once more left. Adopting its former course it passes through thicker undergrowth where there are stands of bamboo and mimosa. Crossing a cattle grid the track runs on to reach the junction where, earlier in the walk, you cut across to the eastern side of the marsh. From here retrace your footsteps back to the car park (3hr 5min).
WALK 3
Vejer de la Frontera southern circuit
| Start/finish | The Plaza de España at the heart of the old town of Vejer |
| Distance | 17.5km |
| Ascent/descent | 475m |
| Grade | Medium/Difficult |
| Time | 5hr |
| Refreshments | Hotel El Palomar de la Breña and Venta Los Olivos |
This longish figure-of-eight walk introduces you to the rolling farmland that lies between Vejer and the Breña Natural Park. After winding through the beautiful old town you cut along a high ridge past a number of wind turbines. How much you enjoy this part of the walk may depend on where you stand in the aeolic debate. You next follow tracks down through open fields then along a hedgerow-lined drovers’ path to reach a small rural hotel and El Palomar de la Breña.
A visit to (what claims to be) the world’s largest dovecot is an absolute must and you’ll be given a friendly welcome in the bar/cafeteria. From here sandy tracks lead to the edge of the Breña forest and the hamlet of San Ambrosio from where you cut north back towards Vejer. Reaching the ridge with the wind turbines you could shorten the walk by retracing your footsteps back to Vejer. But the loop out to the west – it involves a little more climbing – is well worth the extra effort.
The walk begins next to a fountain in front of the Casa del Califa hotel in the pretty Plaza de España at the eastern side of Vejer de la Frontera. With your back to the hotel pass left of a kiosk, angle right and pass beneath an arch. Climbing past the Vera Cruz restaurant the street angles right then left then reaches a sign Arco de la Segur. Here cut right and continue parallel to a line of battlements.
Passing beneath the arch of Puerta de la Segur drop down Calle Marqués de Tamarón which soon becomes Nuestra Señora de la Oliva to reach the Plazuela square. Here angle left along Calle Juan Relinque following a sign Teatro de San Francisco. Reaching house number 22A cut right up Calle San Ambrosio to a Stop sign then turn left along the palm-lined Avenida de Andalucía. At the end of the street, reaching a supermarket, cut right and climb. Leaving the last of the town’s houses behind you pass a sign Ruta del Interior (20min).
From here head along a sandy footpath, just right of the tarmac road, which runs towards a line of wind turbines atop a ridge. Reaching a fork, angle left back towards the road then once more right through low-growing shrub. You shortly pass to the right of a radar station used by civil aviation. Views open out towards Conil and Zahara de los Atunes. Passing a picnic area the path once more meets with the road.
Continuing for 300m you reach a junction by a group of buildings. Ignoring the track that cuts down to the right continue for 10m to a second junction then angle right past a sign Consorcio de Aguas de la Zona Gaditana. The track climbs then passes the first of a line of wind turbines. Heading on past several turbines you reach a sign Via Pecuaria Colada de Buena Vista y de los Carrascales. Some 125m past this sign you come to a signboard for El Bosque y Matorral Mediteraneo (1hr).
Here cut left along a narrow track which after 30m arcs right and runs on parallel to a second line of turbines. Just beyond the last