Walking in the Cevennes. Janette Norton
ravine and then join another path by a high wall (1hr 40mins).
(9) Go left. (The path straight ahead goes to the hamlet of Paillerols and then down to the road. This is an alternative way back and takes half an hour less: not done by author.)
The path goes along the side of the hill (ignore a fork down right), crossing three rivulets – there are old terraces and walls, remains of cultivation and habitation in the past. It reaches a rocky area where there are open views again and later passes an attractive miniscule pool of water in the rocks.
(10) You reach the top of a rocky shoulder where the path bears round to the right by a wooden PR post (2hrs) – there are magnificent views of the surrounding hills and you can see the valley of the Arre river over on the left. The path leads down the front of the mountain and suddenly reaches a mas (huddle of houses) called les Caumels on the IGN map (2hrs 5mins) – it consists of one big ruin and an unusually tall renovated house. It is quite a shock to cross mown grass, dotted with cherry trees, and you feel an intruder as you walk between the house and the large ruin.
Bridge over the river Arre
(11) Bear to the left at the end of the lawn – there is a yellow splash on a tree (do not go straight where there is a red splash). Wend your way down through chestnut trees and tall bracken. The path becomes a mule track between two defined walls – on the left there is a large area of cleared land. This leads to a jeep track, which looks new and is not marked on the IGN map (this clears up the mystery as to how the people reach their renovated house at les Caumels).
Cross the jeep track and continue on down the mule track (yellow splash on tree) through woodland – you can now see the river Arre down on the left. The path becomes rockier and descends quite steeply through chestnut trees.
(12) Careful, before the path reaches a road it branches to the right in front of a house by an iron post (2hrs 35mins). It goes underneath a bridge where there is a concrete irrigation canal right and reaches the D999.
(13) Turn right on the road (yellow arrow) for about 50m and then bear down left at a wooden PR post. This is a narrow slip road, which goes down and then turns left over a very unusual old arched bridge with a water aqueduct flowing over the top of it. The river beneath looks delightfully cool and clear – there are sandy banks that look as if they make good swimming places for the people in the camping site on the other side.
(14) Turn right on the narrow road after the bridge (2hrs 40mins) and follow this all the way into Le Vigan. It is a pleasant setting with the river on the right and houses with large gardens on the left. There is a delightful old restored mill on the other side of the river by a weir and, further on, a large factory called Well, which makes a popular brand of stocking. Ignore a new bridge to the right and continue straight by another camping site and, further on, a small waterfall where the river seems to be flowing more rapidly. There is a sign saying‘Le Vigan’(3hrs) as the road enters a small industrial site and passes low blocks of flats.
(15) Cross the next bridge by a large supermarket (here the yellow splashes stop). Follow the sign‘Centre ville’and turn right on a bridge over a road. This takes you into the main square with the church up on the left. Turn right down here, continue past the fountain at the end and bear up left. This road passes the statue of the Chevalier d’Assas (see above) and at the top turn left towards the Hôtel de Ville (3hrs 15mins).
For information on Le Vigan see Introduction, ‘Southern Cevennes’.
WALK 3
Roc de L’Esparon
| Start point | Village of Molières-Cavaillac |
| Height gain | 378m |
| Difficulty | Moderate walk – uphill to start and a short scramble to the Roc de L’Esparon |
| Time | 3hrs 30mins |
| Maps | Cartes IGN No. 2641 Top 25 Mont Aigoual/Le Vigan 1:25,000 |
| How to get there (from Le Vigan) | From Le Vigan take the D999, direction Millau, for 4.1km. At Cavaillac turn up right on the D272, signposted Bréau-Salagosse/Molières-Cavaillac, and then shortly after left on the D790, which takes you to the village (7km from Le Vigan). Pass a little park bordered with rosemary bushes and turn up left and park in an open area at the top. |
| Signposting | Signposting : Good – follow PR20 posts and yellow splashes which are very clear most of the way round |
This is a delightful walk through three lovely villages with a spectacular view down the valley surrounding Le Vigan.
There is an interesting legend concerning three brothers who came from the Château de L’Esparon, called Alban, Loup and Guiral. On her deathbed their mother begged them to marry into local families and produce heirs. Unknown to each other each of the three fixed his sights on the same beautiful girl, called Irène, and played court to her. Unable to choose between them she decided she would tell them they had to go to the Crusades to prove which one was the bravest. This they did but on arriving home they found to their consternation that in the meantime their loved one had died. United in their grief they decided to become hermits and exiled themselves to live on the summits of three local peaks – Saint-Alban, Pic Saint-Loup and the Mont St-Guiral (Walk 14).
(1) Follow the road up from the parking (Chemin de la Filature) and then as indicated by yellow splashes bear up right towards the church (Place de l’Eglise). Go down on a narrow road to the left of the church (not the Rue de L’Eglise right beside the church) and then left again on the Rue Mènard where there is a yellow arrow. Follow the road round right which goes under an attractive stone porch to the Place Bellevue (ancient gateway to the village) where there is a good view into the Arre valley.
(2) The yellow splashes direct you down out of the village, and after about 270m, where there is a small iron cross and a post with‘PR.20 (3)’on it, go up to the right (10mins).
This is a wide stony track along the top of old terraces with a wall on the right, which goes gently upwards. There are cherry trees (delicious to eat if you do the walk in early June) and some old olive trees; otherwise it is an open path, so there are sweeping views into the valley below and later on you can see the outskirts of Le Vigan.
(3) The path bears up to the right initially between stone walls (15mins) and then continues climbing steadily along the top of former terraces. It narrows and becomes stonier as it enters scattered oak woods, continuing along the side of the hill, and eventually flattens off. It goes through a wooden barrier and starts gently climbing again.
(4) Where there is a yellow cross on the path ahead and a low barrier of stones, bear up to the right by a wooden post, PR20(4) – (the straight path does in fact go directly to the village of Esparon but has been closed because of rock falls). The path is narrow and climbs up quite steeply. Follow the yellow splashes carefully. Bear left at the top by a wall and go over a smart new stile to reach a wider track.
(5) Bear left here (yellow cross on tree right) and a few metres later bear left again at another intersection. The wooded area is scattered with rocks. Where the path turns a corner you get your first view of the rocky outcrop of the Esparon, which looks unusual as it appears to be a pile of jumbled boulders with trees on the top – and looks tricky to get to the top of!
Follow the yellow splashes along the path which initially goes through stone walls and then, after veering left, climbs steeply upwards – there is a short rocky scramble over some boulders and you arrive at a flat spur (1hr 5mins). From here you can see the valley coming in from the right and opening out as the Coudoulous river (not visible) comes down from the north to join the waters of the Arre.