Walking in the Cevennes. Janette Norton

      The river in the centre of Florac

      By Air

      The nearest airports to the Cevennes region are Nimes (for Florac) and Montpellier (for Le Vigan). It takes about an hour to drive to Le Vigan from Montpellier.

      For information on flights and times contact: www.ryanair.com, www.easyjet.com and www.britishairways.com.

When to Go

      The Cevennes, because of its geographical diversity, has a much more extreme climate than its neighbour Provence.

      The high mass of the Mont Aiguoul is the most southern part of the Massif Central and creates a barrier between the Mediterranean climate to the south (around Le Vigan) and the more rigorous climatic conditions further north. It catches the high winds and cloud coming off the Mediterranean and has one of the highest rainfalls in France – winter can be bitterly cold and snowy. Further north, around Florac and the Mont Lozère, the climate is more continental – hot in summer and cold in winter.

      The best time to go is in the spring, early summer or autumn; for the southern area April and May can be glorious and the best time to see the spring flowers, but you run the risk of a certain amount of rain, especially in the narrow Cevennes valleys, where it can be quite intense.

      If you travel to the Mont Aigoual and the Lozère region in May there are carpets of alpine flowers, but be prepared for colder weather. June and early July are usually pleasant, as are September and October, when you get the extensive autumnal colouring.

      The summers are usually hot and dry, especially on the upland plains, where there is little shade for walkers and no water; in the Mont Lozère region there may be irritating flies in the wooded areas. Mid-July to August is the height of the tourist season, and anywhere in France should be avoided!

      Do not attempt to visit the northern Cevennes in the winter months unless you want to cross-country ski!

Accommodation

      Although the Cevennes is a tourist area and does offer hotels, gîtes, bed and breakfast establishments and a wide range of camping sites, it must be remembered that the villages and towns are widely dispersed, so the choice of places is limited. It does not have as many places at the top end of the market as you would find, for example, in Provence.

      The walker has the advantage that it is really too hot to walk in July and August when most places are full and the camping sites are cheek by jowl. It is much easier to find accommodation in May, June, September and October, when there are fewer people about and prices are lower. It is always advisable to book in advance, though this is not essential.

      Hotels in France are typically less expensive than in England and are great value – the only things missing are the tea-making facility in the bedroom and, of course, the hearty breakfast – you pay extra for this in a French hotel. Most rooms have en-suite bathroom or shower and WC. The choice is wide, and below are some recommended hotel chains.

      Logis de France: This is a nationwide network of hotels which offers comfortable accommodation and excellent food at reasonable prices. The hotels are graded from one to three star according to their degree of comfort (look for the distinctive logo which consists of a yellow fireplace on a green background). For information on the Logis de France hotels in the Cévennes area look under the section Languedoc-Roussillon on the website www.logis-de-france-languedoc-roussillon.com.

      Campanile Hotels: These tend to be on the outskirts of towns rather than in villages. They are usually modern and impersonal, catering more for the family market rather than the discerning tourist. For a list of hotels visit www.campanile.com.

      Châteaux and Independent Hotels: If you want to go up-market there is a book published with a list of lovely looking châteaux (often with the owners acting as hosts) and independent hotels available all over France. There is a description in English and a photo of each establishment. Prices of the rooms and meals are clearly marked. Some of them are not at all expensive for what they offer! For further information visit their website: www.chatotel.com.

      Gîtes de France: Very popular with the English, these are country cottages which are available for a weekly rent all over the French countryside and are good value. They can vary from extremely comfortable to quite basic so read the explanation beside the photo carefully! It is a good idea to pick an area of the book that appeals to you and then rent a gîte in a central position for the walks indicated.

      For a list of gîtes in the Cévennes area visit their website: www.gitesdefrance.fr and look for the section‘Languedoc Roussillon’.

      Gîtes d’étape: These are youth hostels of a particular type, usually without a warden, but open to people of all ages. They can be reasonably comfortable with good beds, showers and a well-equipped kitchen, but they can also be quite basic and are mainly intended for cheap overnight stops by walkers and cyclists. If you prefer not to cook your own meals there is often a café/restaurant in the vicinity.

      In the high season they can be uncomfortably full, but are a wonderful way to get to know fellow-travellers and share a convivial evening. Out of season you often have the place to yourself. The only snag is that you may have to hunt for the person responsible in the village or nearby (usually posted on the door) to get access to the gîte.

      For a list of gîtes d’étape in the Cévennes area visit the website www.gitesdefrance.fr.

      Chambres d’Hotes: This is the French equivalent of bed and breakfast, though often the breakfast is not included or, if it is, is limited to coffee