Walking in Bulgaria's National Parks. Julian Perry
published by the Bulgarian mountain rescue service
Sredna Stara Planina (1:100 000) – published by Kartografiya EOOD
WALK 1
The Boatin, Tsarichina and Kozya Stena Reserves
| Time | 42.5km/3 days |
| Distance | 42.5km |
| Height gain | 2110m |
| Height loss | 2050m |
This wonderfully varied walk explores the western part of the Central Balkan National Park, taking in three nature reserves that are rich in flora and fauna. The trail starts off in the ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve, a rugged and steeply sloping region formed around the catchment area of the Cherni Vit, whose headstreams lie deeply cut into the northern flank of the mountains beneath Tetevenska Baba (2071m). On the second day, the route skirts the southern edge of the Tsarichina Reserve, renowned for its expansive sub-alpine pastures as well as its coniferous forests. Then, on the third day of the walk, the trail continues its spectacular course along the crest of the Stara Planina, before dropping down north to the village and spa resort of Chiflik. Much of this day you are walking in the Kozya Stena Reserve, a wild region formed around the headstreams of the Beli Osam. The reserve is named ‘the goat wall’, after its most impressive peak, Kozya Stena (1670m), whose northwestern flank forms a dramatic 100m high cliff.
Looking out over the Kozya Stena Reserve (Day 3)
GETTING TO THE START
The starting point for this walk is the tiny village of Divchovoto, which lies about 24km south of Teteven. On weekdays there are three buses daily between the bus station in Teteven (0678-2557) and Divchovoto, currently departing at 11.30am, 2.30pm and 5.00pm. On Saturday there is just one bus at 12.30pm and on Sunday a single bus at 2.30pm. Teteven itself is served by seven buses each day from the tsentralna avtogara (central bus station) in Sofia, at 9.00am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm, 4.00pm, 5.00pm, 6.00pm and 6.40pm.
DAY 1
Divchovoto to Hizha Benkovski
| Time | 5hrs 15mins |
| Distance | 15.5km |
| Ascent | 1235m |
| Descent | 350m |
| Highest point | 1535m (hizha Benkovski) |
The day begins with a gentle climb through the beautiful ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve, home to red squirrel, wild boar, red deer and roe deer, as well as carnivores such as brown bear, beech marten, pine marten, badger and wild cat. After crossing the saddle Klimashka Prevlaka, the trail leaves the reserve and drops steadily down into the valley of the Kostina Reka. There then follows a long ascent to hizha Benkovski, with the climb along the valley of the Ravna Reka being particularly steep and demanding.
Vila Kordela (06905-228) is a former hunting lodge that is now open to all. It has 10 rooms, but doesn’t offer food unless ordered in advance.
From the final bus stop in the village of Divchovoto (650m), set off upstream along the asphalt lane signed ‘Kordela 5km’. The road runs gently up the valley, and after about 20mins reaches a drinking fountain and shelter. Continue upstream, after another 10mins passing an imposing white building tucked away on the left behind a high wall. Some 15mins further on you reach the entrance to the Central Balkan National Park and the boundary of the Boatin Reserve. The trail proper begins here, breaking off left from the road into the beech forest. However, if it is late in the day and you need accommodation, you could keep on up the road for 5mins to vila Kordela. If you do stay the night, it is well worth venturing out after dark to listen for owls. The tawny owl, Tengmalm’s owl and the Ural owl all inhabit the region. Leaving the road and entering the Boatin Reserve, follow the yellow-blazed trail across a couple of wooden footbridges before climbing up to join an old forest path marked ‘Putya naBenkovski’ (‘the track of Benkovski’).
Crossing the Cherni Vit to enter the Boatin Reserve
The old forest path takes you in the footsteps of Georgi Benkovski (1843–76), a famous revolutionary leader who fled this way into the mountains after the collapse of the 1876 April Rising. The surrounding forests are full of birds, particularly woodpeckers, including middle spotted woodpecker, lesser spotted woodpecker, black woodpecker and white-backed woodpecker. It is also worth keeping an eye out for red-breasted flycatcher and semi-collared flycatcher.
The path leads on upstream along the true right bank, but soon becomes overgrown with brambles. Thankfully, it’s easy to skirt the obstruction, after which the trail becomes clearer once again. One important thing to be aware of is that although the official colour of the trail markings is yellow, as shown on maps, the path has been recently re-marked with green blazes, and these are what you should follow.
The trail now starts to climb, and after about 25mins you emerge into a glade that you head straight across east. On re-entering the forest, the path leads on via thinned beech wood, with small open areas covered with spike-heath, whortleberry, juniper and some thicker patches of bracken. After 20mins you emerge at a second glade, where you need to keep slightly left, heading on east back into the beech forest. Finally, after another 15mins, you emerge at the large open saddle Klimashka Prevlaka (1070m).
From the saddle, resume straight on east into the forest. The trail immediately bends left and starts descending via more wonderful beech forest. After 5mins you cross the right edge of a large bracken-clad clearing before re-entering the forest, where the path once again becomes broad and clear. Having passed an old broken footbridge over a dry gully, the trail then becomes steeper and stonier, eventually dropping to join a track. Follow this straight on down east, passing a small wooden hunters’ refuge some 30mins from the saddle. Continue straight on downstream along the Svinska Reka for another 20mins to arrive at an important junction in the valley of the Kostina Reka.
The green blazes now continue left downstream, bound for the village of Ribaritsa, about a 1hr walk away. However, you turn right, following the track south upstream. After 10mins you pass a national park information board, then 5mins further on ignore the minor track that breaks off right. Keep on the main dirt road up the valley, here and there marked with some faint green blazes, and after 15mins pass a water fountain. Some 15mins beyond the water fountain there is a pretty cascade on the right.
A couple of minutes beyond that, the dirt road makes a sharp bend left, crossing a bridge at the confluence of the Dalboko Dere (Dyasna Reka) and Ravna Reka (Lyava Reka) to enter the national park. Although it is now possible to save 5mins by climbing straight up and cutting off a bend, the easiest thing with a large pack is simply to stay on the main track and follow it on as it hairpins up and round. The important junction comes about 15mins later, when the track bends sharp right over a second bridge. Here you finally leave the track behind for good by keeping straight on along the green-blazed trail into the forest on the true right bank of the Ravna Reka.
Walking through the ancient beech forests of the Boatin Reserve
The trail, overgrown in places with brambles and nettles, follows what resembles an old track, but after a little over 10mins the stony track bends right to ford the river,