Walking in Bulgaria's National Parks. Julian Perry
reported: robust spreadwing (Lestes dryas), common bluetail (Ischnura elegans), azure bluet (Coenagrion puella), blue featherleg (Platycnemis pennipes), blue hawker (Aeschna cyanea), sombre goldenring (Cordulegaster bidentatus), broad-bodied chaser (Libellula depressa), southern skimmer (Orthetrum brunneum) and ruddy darter (Sympetrum sanguineum). It is likely, however, that after further research, especially along the upper courses of some of the streams, more species will be discovered.
Butterflies
The butterflies of the Central Balkan national park have been the focus of scientific research for almost 100 years. So far almost 60 species have been recorded in the region, and it has recently been recognised as a Prime Butterfly Area. Important species found within the national park include Apollo (Parnassius apollo), clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne), large blue (Maculinea arion), false Eros blue (Polyommatus eroides), purple emperor (Apatura iris), eastern large heath (Coenonympha rhodopensis), lesser spotted fritillary (Melitaea trivia), bog fritillary (Boloria eunomia), and a variety of high mountain ringlets such as Bulgarian ringlet (Erebia orientalis), woodland ringlet (Erebia medusa), almond-eyed ringlet (Erebia alberganus), Nicholl’s ringlet (Erebia rhodopensis), water ringlet (Erebia pronoe) and black ringlet (Erebia melas).
Fish
Lacking lakes or other large areas of open water, the variety of fish found within the Central Balkan national park is rather limited, with only six species recorded in the region. Most typical are the brown trout (Salmo trutta fario) and the minnow (Phoxinus phoxinus), while the miller’s thumb (Cottus gobio), Balkan barbel (Barbus meridionalis petenyi) and rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) have been reported in rivers at the periphery of the national park. There is also a record of brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) from the river Zavodna from the 1970s, but this species has not since been recorded in the region.
Amphibians
There are eight species of amphibian currently known to be present within the Central Balkan national park. These are fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra), yellow-bellied toad (Bombina variegata), green toad (Epidalea viridis), common toad (Bufo bufo), European tree frog (Hyla arborea), marsh frog (Pelophylax ridibundus), common frog (Rana temporaria) and agile frog (Rana dalmatina).
Fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra)
Reptiles
Reptiles are well represented, with 14 species having been recorded within the national park. Most often seen by walkers are the slow worm (Anguis fragilis), viviparous lizard (Zootoca vivipara) and common wall lizard (Podarcis muralis). However, if you are lucky you may also spot green lizard (Lacerta viridis) and sand lizard (Lacerta agilis), and there are old records of Balkan wall lizard (Podarcis tauricus) and snake-eyed skink (Ablepharus kitaibelii) from the Stara Reka Reserve above Karlovo.
The Central Balkan national park also has seven species of snake. These include the common viper (Vipera berus) and nose-horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), as well as the grass snake (Natrix natrix), dice snake (Natrix tessellata), Aesculapian snake (Zamenis longissimus) and smooth snake (Coronella austriaca). Most interesting of all is the large whip snake (Dolichophis caspius), which has been recorded in both the Boatin and Stara Reka reserves.
Birds
Over 220 species of bird have been recorded within the Central Balkan national park, of which over 120 are thought to breed. Not surprisingly, the region has been internationally recognised as an Important Bird Area. In the beech forests, chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs), robin (Erithacus rubecula), wren (Troglodytes troglodytes) and blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) are dominant, with other typical species being song thrush (Turdus philomelos), blackbird (Turdus merula), chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita), coal tit (Parus ater), nuthatch (Sitta europaea), great tit (Parus major), treecreeper (Certhia familiaris), woodpigeon (Columba palumbus), bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), marsh tit (Parus palustris) and blue tit (Parus caeruleus). Also present in the beech forests, but less often seen, are red-breasted flycatcher (Ficedula parva), collared flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis), wood warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix), white-backed woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos ssp. lilfordi) and lesser spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor).
Many of the commoner beech forest species can also be seen in the spruce and mixed coniferous forests, along with firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus), goldcrest (Regulus regulus), mistle thrush (Turdus viscivorus), nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes), common crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and willow tit (Parus montanus). Then, emerging from the forest belt into the scrub of the sub-alpine zone, you typically encounter dunnock (Prunella modularis), whinchat (Saxicola rubetra), stonechat (Saxicola torquata), ring ouzel (Turdus torquatus) and linnet (Carduelis cannabina). In places you can also find yellow bunting (Emberiza citrinella), goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) and red-backed shrike (Lanius collurio).
White stork (Ciconia ciconia)
On meadows in the high-mountain treeless zone there are water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), Balkan horned lark (Eremophila alpestris ssp. balcanica) and skylark (Alauda arvensis), while streams are frequented by grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) and dipper (Cinclus cinclus), and more rocky terrain by black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), northern wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris ssp. subalpina), rock partridge (Alectoris graeca) and wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).
Finally, you should always keep an eye on the sky overhead where, as well as being able to spot red-rumped swallow (Hirundo daurica), crag martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), alpine swift (Tachymarptis melba), raven (Corvus corax) and alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus), there is always a chance of glimpsing a bird of prey. Possible raptors that could be seen in the national park include common buzzard (Buteo buteo), long-legged buzzard (Buteo rufinus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), saker falcon (Falco cherrug) and peregrine (Falco peregrinus), as well as the occasional foraging imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca).
Mammals
There have been 63 species of mammal recorded within the national park, including 22 species of bat. There are also 17 species of large mammal, of which 13 species are carnivores. Data from 1999 suggests there are about 60 brown bears (Ursus arctos) roaming within the national park, as well as nine packs of wolves (Canis lupus) totalling about 25 to 30 individuals. Deer are very important prey for the latter, and the national park is home to about 1000–1200 roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) and 400 red deer (Cervus elaphus), although unfortunately the red deer population is declining badly due to poaching. The same is true for the Balkan chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra ssp. balcanica), which now numbers less than 80 individuals. Wild boar (Sus scrofa), on the other hand, seem to be doing well, with a population of 350–400 animals.
Walking Opportunities
The Central Balkan national park has a good network of well-maintained hiking trails, including a section of the E3 European long-distance walking route, which follows the main ridge of the Stara Planina from the Serbian border in the west to Cape Emine in the east. The national park authorities have also established several interpretative routes in the region, as well as a number of special eco-trails. For accommodation within the national park, walkers also have at their disposal 21 mountain huts and several small refuges, not to mention the numerous hotels and guest-houses that are found in settlements around the foot of the mountains.
For the purposes of this guidebook, I have linked together some of what I consider to be the most interesting, picturesque and representative trails, to form four multi-stage walks each with durations of between three and four days (33 to 51km). These walks are not only beautiful mountain routes in their own rights, but the trails have been specifically chosen to take you through the nine nature reserves of the national park, thereby providing the perfect opportunity to discover more about the rich flora and fauna of the region.
Maps
Central Balkan National Park Tourist Map (1:50 000) – a 64 page atlas published by Directorate of the Central Balkan National Park
Troyan