Walking in Bulgaria's National Parks. Julian Perry
rich in streams on both sides of the watershed. The upper reaches of these streams tend to be steep and fast flowing, frequently cascading over rocks, and in several places plunging over high precipices to form beautiful waterfalls which are known locally as praskala (sprinklers). These include Karlovsko Praskalo, Babsko Praskalo, Kademliysko Praskalo and Raysko Praskalo, the latter being the highest waterfall in Bulgaria, with a drop of 125m. The majority of waterfalls are found tumbling down the southern flank of the mountains, but there is one major waterfall, Vidimsko Praskalo, which is located on the northern flank of the ridge in the Severen Dzhendem Reserve.
Cascade along the trail to hizha Dobrila (Walk 2, Day 2)
Climate
Not surprisingly, on account of its west–east alignment across the length of Bulgaria, the Stara Planina forms a significant climatic barrier whose influence is felt throughout the country. The northern slopes of the range experience a moderate-continental climate, while the southern slopes experience a transitional-continental climate with some Mediterranean influences. Within the Central Balkan national park itself, factors such as altitude and slope exposition also have a profound influence on the local micro-climate.
The average annual temperature within the national park is 7°C, but this figure is lower at higher altitudes, dropping to between zero and 2°C at altitudes above 2000m. Summer temperatures are often surprisingly warm, with a July average varying between 16°C and 22°C at lower altitudes, and between 7°C and 17°C at altitudes over 1000m. Winters, by contrast, tend to be very cold, with average January temperatures of between -1°C to -3°C at lower altitudes and between -3°C and -9°C above 1000m.
For walkers, one of the most important climatic characteristics that must be taken into account when venturing into the Central Balkan national park is fog. The Stara Planina as a whole is notorious for this, with the region of the national park experiencing on average some 270 days per year with foggy conditions. This figure rises to a staggering 305 days on the highest peak Botev. May and June tend to be worst in this respect, and the winter months of January and February are also fairly bad. For those in search of the sunniest and clearest weather, then August is usually the best bet.
At lower altitudes, the average annual precipitation within the Central Balkan national park varies from 550mm to 1000mm, with the southern slopes being notably drier than those to the north. At altitudes above 1000m, the average annual precipitation reaches 1200mm, and at hizha Ambaritsa on the northern flank of the range it is 1360mm, making this one of the wettest places in Bulgaria. Maximum precipitation occurs in early summer (typically during June) and is lowest in winter (usually in February).
During winter, precipitation tends to fall as snow. The first fleeting flurries can often be seen in September or October, but it is not usually until November that any dusting of snow is likely to remain permanent. The snow cover then gradually accumulates over the ensuing months, in March reaching a maximum depth of between 150cm and 220cm at altitudes above 2000m. At higher altitudes, the snow cover tends to last between 150 to 180 days, while in lower parts of the national park the duration is typically 75 to 80 days. Avalanches are a serious menace in the region during the winter months, typically in the high mountain treeless zone between 1500m and 2200m.
Another feature of the climate in the Stara Planina is the wind. The summit of Murgash (1687m) in the Western Stara Planina has the highest average annual wind speed in the country, with Botev (2376m) in the Central Balkan national park coming in a close second. In general, the average annual wind speed on the main ridge typically tops 10m/s, but it is not unusual for even stronger winds to be experienced in the region. One such wind is the föhn, a warm dry spring wind that whips up from the south and then gusts over the ridge, at times reaching speeds of between 18m/s and 20m/s. There is also a biting northerly wind, know as the bora, which blasts across the ridge and sweeps down over the southern slopes. Typical winds, however, tend to be northwesterly and of moderate strength.
Up-to-date weather information and forecasts for the Central Balkan region can be found at http://vremeto.v.bg, and then follow the link for Peak Botev.
Plant Life
The flora of the Central Balkan national park is extremely rich and varied, with approximately 1900 species and sub-species of higher plants found growing in the region. These include 67 Balkan endemics, 10 Bulgarian endemics, and 10 local endemics that are unique to this part of the Stara Planina. The latter include three species of lady’s mantle Alchemilla achtarowii, Alchemilla jumrukczalica and Alchemilla asteroantha, as well as Ognyanov’s knapweed (Centaurea ognianoffi), Urumov’s hawkweed (Hieraceum urumoffii), Bulgarian seseli (Seseli bulgaricum), two catchflies Silene balcanica and Silene trojanensis, the mullein Verbascum boevae and the beautiful little primrose Primula frondosa.
While walking through the Central Balkan national park you will pass through six distinct vegetation zones. Around the lowest edge of the national park, between about 550m and 900m, there are patches of oak forest. Typically these comprise Turkey oak (Quercus cerris), Hungarian oak (Quercus frainetto) or downy oak (Quercus pubescens), and also include secondary associations of eastern hornbeam (Carpinus orientalis), prickly juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus), hop-hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), manna ash (Fraxinus ornus) and Tartar maple (Acer tartaricum). Many of the trees in this zone are stunted by decades of cutting and grazing, and resemble thickets rather than mature woodland.
Central Balkan endemic flora: Balkan primrose (Priumla frondosa) (Walk 2)
The oak zone is found exclusively on the southern flank of the mountains. Here too, and again reaching up to altitudes of about 900m, there is also a somewhat similar oak-hornbeam zone. This is dominated by communities of the Balkan durmast oak (Quercus dalechampii) in conjunction with hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and eastern hornbeam (Carpinus orientalis). Manna ash (Fraxinus ornus) and hop-hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia) again both also often occur in this zone, as well as silver lime (Tilia tomentosa), hazel (Corylus avellana) and blackthorn (Prunus spinosa).
Between about 800m and 1600m, on both sides of the ridge, it is beech forests that dominate the national park, covering over 40 per cent of its total area. Indeed, about 70 per cent of all trees growing within the national park are beech (Fagus sylvatica), and these have an average age of 135 years. Not only do they play a fundamental role in terms of local climate, hydrology and biodiversity, they also make up the most extensive and least degraded block of beech forest in Europe. Within this zone one also frequently finds examples of sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), Balkan maple (Acer heldreichii), Norway maple (Acer platanoides) and silver fir (Abies alba), as well as the occasional common ash (Fraxinus excelsior), rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) and hazel (Corylus avellana).
Within the Central Balkan national park, coniferous forests are highly fragmented and do not form a distinct zone as they do in the Rila and Pirin mountains. Isolated blocks of Norway spruce (Picea abies) are found in and around the Boatin, Tsarichina, Stara Reka and Dzhendema reserves, with the average age of trees being 120 years. Of particular interest is the occurrence of Macedonian pine (Pinus peuce) within the national park. Not only is the region of the Tsarichina Reserve the sole location of this Balkan endemic species in the Stara Planina, it also represents the most extreme northerly outpost of its worldwide geographical distribution.
As the beech or coniferous forests finally give way, somewhere between 1500m and 1850m, you enter into the sub-alpine zone. Here the vegetation is dominated by low scrubby formations of Siberian juniper (Juniperus sibirica), whortleberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and Balkan spike-heath (Bruckenthalia spiculifolia). In places you can also find patches of dwarf mountain pine (Pinus mugo), but the occurrence of this species within the Central Balkan national park is far more restricted than it is in the Rila or Pirin mountains.
Wildlife
Dragonflies
The dragonflies of the Central Balkan national park have not yet been studied in detail, with records only from one small region. So far nine species