Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller

      The strenuous Traverse de Coucou

      Climb up around a narrow buttress to reach a ledge, which is followed without any difficulties until arriving at a large tree. This spot (Le Jardin de Miolene) is one of the few places on the route with shade. From here, the route gains 65 vertical metres up a series of steep climbs and traverses (La Para Nera). This ascent is tiring but contains no noticeably strenuous moves. At the top a narrow ledge passes an escape path on the left and leads to the Traversée des Poupées. This takes a gradually rising line across a series of vegetated ledges and bare slabs until arriving at a steep climb of 15m. The final 5m of the climb ascend an open corner and are fairly tough.

      Above this, another narrow ledge, where a rest can be had, leads to the Mur du Saix Rouge. This is climbed for 70 vertical metres and contains a few small passages that are slightly overhanging. Depending on your height, some moves may be fairly awkward due to the placement of the rungs and you may need to make use of a number of small hand and rock foot placements. At the top of the climb, the cable continues along much easier ground for a further few minutes before terminating.

      Return

      Descend carefully until the start of the route is reached and return along the approach path.

      DENT D’OCHE OPTION

      Although it cannot really be considered to be a via ferrata, the path traversing the nearby Dent d’Oche (2221m) is well worth an ascent for anyone in the area. The route contains several exposed sections of scrambling, which are protected by cable. It is situated a little to the north of the Abondance Valley and is best accessed from the small village of Bernex, which can be reached from Évian-les-Bains. There is a staffed refuge on the summit of the peak, from which there are exceptional views, taking in the entire sweep of Lake Geneva. The ascent climbs for 1010m from Parking La Fétiuère (above Bernex); allow 5–7hrs for the round-trip.

ROUTE 4

      Via Ferrata du Rocher de la Chaux

      This new route, opened in the summer of 2011, scales a feature known locally as the Tete de l’Éléphant. Driving north from Morzine, the reason for the name soon becomes apparent, as an approximation of an elephant’s head can clearly be seen on the Rocher de la Chaux, to the northwest of St-Jean-d’Aulps.

      There are two routes on the rock, with the easier one ascending the ‘trunk’ of the elephant and the harder route its ‘face’, as well as an easier third option nearby. Both routes are athletic, sustained and exceptionally airy, with the exposure being particularly ‘immediate’ for most of their length. There are few good places to take a break on either route, so a rest lanyard is essential. The second route is considerably more arduous and sustained than the first, although the most difficult passages are fairly well spaced apart. As such, the route would be a good option to try before tackling one of the most difficult via ferratas in the book, such as the Grotte à Carret (Route 16, Stage B) or Grand Dièdre (Route 40, Stage B). An easier third option, the Mini Via Ferrata, could be completed as a warm-up for the other routes, or by children and beginners who want to dip their toes in the water. The routes on the Rocher de la Chaux are closed each year from 15 April to 15 May to protect the kidding of chamois.