Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller
30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins)
Approach
Briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Immediately beyond the first intact building on your right a small sign indicates the point where you leave the road. Take a path, with orange waymarks, that climbs steeply uphill through forested slopes.
Route
A straightforward climbing traverse leads to the Pilier de Chantemerle, a vertical climb of 50m. This is quite steep, but initially not too strenuous. In common with the rest of the route, as well as the adjacent route, progress is almost exclusively on stemples, with only very occasional contact made with the rock. Towards the top of this first climb, several mildly demanding moves lead to a short, vertiginous traverse around a corner, beyond which is a balance beam. The 4m-long beam (Le Pont de Saint Guérin) feels extremely airy and is equipped with a cable only just tight enough to avoid having to rely on balance alone.
Pass the escape path from the harder route and continue with a climb of 30m. This involves a few slightly strenuous moves and leads to a steep traverse up to the second escape path from the harder route. Continue to traverse steeply, with a gradual decline in the angle of ascent leading to the junction with the other route. From here, walk easily up the grassy hillside to the end of the cable. The platform above the end of the route affords fine views of Mont Blanc (4810m), in the distance, as well as of St-Jean-d’Aulps, now far below you.
The reward for your efforts: a view of Mont Blanc
Return
Keep your gear on as the return path involves some easy cabled sections. Follow a path up the ridgeline, and then descend forested slopes to meet your approach path.
STAGE B
L’Oeil de l’Éléphant
| Length | 300m |
| Ascent/Descent | 375m (750m, if combined with Stage A) |
| Route grading | technical grade: 5; exposure: 5; seriousness: A |
| Time | 2hrs 30mins (approach: 25mins; route: 1hr 30mins; return: 35mins) |
| Technical notes | direction: SE; escape points (to Stage A): 2 |
Route
Start as for Stage A: within 10m diverge from the easier route and climb straight up the face for 35m and cross the Traversée du Doute. This steeply rising traverse of 15m constitutes the first real challenge, being both noticeably strenuous and the first point at which the exposed nature of the route can be properly appreciated. Arrive at the Mur des Lamentations, a vertical climb of 20m with some reasonable overhangs on it. A little more steep traversing brings you to the first escape point.
If you really struggled with the first section, consider taking the easier route as the next part is just as arduous but even more exposed. This consists of a long rising traverse, occasionally interrupted by some overhangs. The largest of these, near the top of the section, is the eponymous Oeil de l’Éléphant (crux). This involves a highly muscular and airy move part-way along a generally strenuous passage of 15m. The second escape point is found a little way above this.
Between the first and second escape points on l’Oeil de l’Éléphant, with 100m of exposure underfoot
The third and final section may come as a disappointment or a relief depending on how you have found the route so far. Begin with a climb followed by a traverse, both of a few metres each and all somewhat overhanging. Difficulty then reduces significantly along with a marginal drop in exposure as a long rising traverse is followed. The cable tops out onto a grassy hillside before rejoining the easier route.
STAGE C
Mini Via Ferrata
| Length | 100m |
| Ascent/Descent | 45m (795m, if combined with preceding stages) |
| Route grading | technical grade: 1 (variant: 3); exposure: 2; seriousness: A |
| Time | 45mins (approach: 10mins; route: 25mins; return: 10mins) |
| Technical notes | direction: W; escape points (within stage): 0 |
Approach
From the parking place briefly walk uphill to a minor road and turn left. Follow the road, passing the junction with the path for the other stages, and continue to a rock-climbing area above the hamlet of Bas Thex. A little way beyond an information panel, take the first path to the right and immediately you will see two via ferrata lines alongside many bolted sports climbing routes.
Route
Ascend the left-hand cable. Scale a just off-vertical slab for 25m to a narrow ledge. Either continue climbing for 10m or walk along the ledge to the right to take a harder variant. This harder option begins by ascending through a moderate overhang for a few metres before continuing up to join the other route. Another alternative is to continue along the ledge to the right to join the descent route. From the top of the climb, the cable heads right and descends broken ground without particular difficulty.
ROUTE 5
Via Ferrata du Saix du Tour
| Location | Avoriaz, Haute-Savoie (GPS: Lat. 46º 11’ 25.86” N Long. 6º 46’ 39.88" E) |
| Length | 600m |
| Ascent/Descent | 225m |
| Route grading | technical grade: 3 (variant: 4); exposure: 3; seriousness: B |
| Total time | 3hrs 15mins (approach: 20mins; route: 2hrs 25mins; return: 30mins) |
| Highest altitude | 2023m |
| Map | 3528ET |
| Technical notes | direction: SW; escape points: 3 |
| When to visit | May to October |
| Useful website | www.avoriaz.com |
The ski resort of Avoriaz cannot be described as the most attractive of places. During the summer, this jumble of architecturally dubious apartment blocks typically resembles a building site, but this is more than compensated for by the beauty of its mountain setting as well as the presence of a high-quality via ferrata crossing heavily striated bluffs above the resort. With several escape points and two variants, the via ferrata offers a wide variety of challenge; however, the general standard is reasonably demanding, especially for the first half of the route. There is quite a lot of rock contact in places and a pair of boots with good grip, and a rest lanyard, are recommended. The route is situated at a relatively high altitude and due consideration should be given to the effects of poor weather. Watch out for some loose rock on and above the route.
Access
From Morzine, follow the D338 to the ski resort of Avoriaz. The resort is theoretically car-free for most of the year, so you may have to park on its outskirts. Walk (or drive if permitted) through the centre of the resort via Rue des Traîneaux. At the bottom of the road look out for a large via ferrata information panel next to a small car park and a Sherpa supermarket.
Avoriaz, from the Passage du Berger
Approach
From the Sherpa supermarket, walk downhill along a gravel track for a minute and then turn left at a sign for the via ferrata. Follow a clear path up grassy slopes to the base of the bluffs.
Route
Start with a climbing traverse (l’Emotion). This gives a good idea of the nature of the rest of the route. A short down-climb on hidden stemples is followed by an awkward move around a corner. Arrive at the first escape