Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller
to the manufacturer and verified as safe.
The limestone slabs encountered on the first stage of Via Ferrata de Roche Veyrand are protected by numerous stemples for both hands and feet (Route 18, Stage A)
Moving safely
Protection for climbers on a via ferrata takes the form of a cable that is anchored to the rock at regular points. Via ferratists should ensure that they are attached continuously to the cable by both of the karabiners at the end of their via ferrata lanyard, except at the point where they move from one section of cable to the next. At each of these anchor points, take one of the karabiners off the cable, while the other is still attached, and place it around the next section of cable, ensuring that both karabiners are fully closed.
The length of cable between anchors, known as the run-out, varies from one metre to as much as 10m. Normally, the more challenging the movement required on any one passage, the shorter the run-out will be. Assuming you are correctly attached to the cable, this system assures that, in the event of a fall, you will never drop more than a few metres. However, a fall still has the potential to result in injury, and is to be avoided if possible. On longer run-outs, or particularly strenuous overhangs, you can further reduce the potential fall distance by clipping one of the karabiners of your via ferrata lanyard onto a rung or other element of the fixed protection situated between the cable anchor points. This can be moved up from one rung to the next as you progress but, if you do this, the other karabiner should always remain attached to the cable.
A pigs’ tail piton: for use by a roped party
Roped progression
Parties with children, or those requiring extra assurance, should use a rope in addition to the via ferrata lanyard used by each member of the party. The rope should be attached to the belay loop of each person’s harness via a re-threaded figure of eight knot (for the ends) or a figure of eight knot on a bight (for the middle). Keep the rope reasonably taut, with a gap of 5 to 8m between each climber. Many via ferratas are equipped with pigs’ tails pitons, through which the rope should be threaded by the lead climber. If these are not present, use quickdraws placed onto the fixed protection by the lead climber instead. If properly organised, there should always be an anchor point between each member of the party. The last climber should unthread the rope from the pigs’ tails (or collect the quickdraws). Additional security on strenuous sections can be given by the use of a belay plate. If you wish to secure your party with a rope but are not confident of your ability to use this equipment correctly, consider hiring a guide.
A roped-up party crossing the Pont du Calvaire (Route 10, Stage A)
Further advice
Try to avoid the two strands of your via ferrata lanyard becoming excessively twisted or tangled. If this happens, stop, unclip one strand at a time and untwist it.
Put your weight on your legs in preference to your arms. On strenuous sections, keep your arms straight, as bent arms will tire more quickly. If your arms or legs are feeling strained, try to change posture regularly.
You may find some sections of via ferratas more challenging, depending on your height. Put simply, the shorter you are, the more difficulty you will have with sections of vertical climbing; the taller you are, the more difficulty you will have with traversing. Bear this in mind when choosing routes.
Rock-holds are not always immediately obvious, especially on harder routes, and occasionally you may have to search for them.
On a few of the hardest routes you may occasionally have to ‘smear’ your boots on the rock. To smear is to use the friction of the sole of your footwear against a vertical (or near vertical) surface, in the absence of rungs or horizontal footholds. Shorter climbers are more likely to have to use this technique.
Always try to maintain three points of contact on the rock, fixed protection or the cable.
There is no such thing as poor via ferrata style. Climb using the rock, the cable and fixed protection in whatever manner feels safest and most enjoyable.
Some bridges can be quite wobbly but all are well secured and protected. Some, particularly the two-wire and three-wire variants, can feel extremely exposed.
Try to avoid having more than one climber clipped onto any single section of cable at the same time. Normally you should leave enough room between climbers so that, should the higher climber fall, there is no risk that they will hit the lower one.
The majority of routes have an indicated direction of travel (sens de l’itinéraire). Do not go against the flow.
It is not uncommon to see people passing each other in relatively precarious positions. If a faster party wishes to pass you, you should assent to this only if you are entirely comfortable with the proposition. Should you find your progress blocked by a slower party, wait patiently until you consider that it will be possible to pass them safely. In such circumstances, a polite request to pass is rarely refused.
Many approach and return paths pass over steep and slippery ground and require care. Despite this, they are not normally protected by cable except where exposure is also a factor.
Crossing the suspension bridge on Parcours le P’tchi, with Chambéry and the Chartreuse Massif in the background (Route 16, Stage A)
Tyrolean traverses
Only two of the via ferratas in this book contain a Tyrolean traverse, both of which are optional. These are not traditional rock-climbing Tyrolean traverses, which require a belayer, but single cables that are traversed by force of gravity. Of all the different elements found on via ferratas, Tyrolean traverses present the greatest potential risk of accident if misused. Many supervised Tyrolean traverses exist, including a few that are adjacent to routes in this book. The uninitiated should consider trying one of these before using a traverse incorporated into a via ferrata.
To use a Tyrolean traverse, place a climbing sling onto the belay loop of your harness by a lark’s foot knot. Attach the other end of the sling to a screwgate karabiner. Place your pulley onto the Tyrolean traverse cable and attach it to the karabiner (with the screw tightened). Your rest lanyard (see Equipment) may be suitable for this purpose, but your via ferrata self-belaying lanyard is not. This latter item should remain attached to the via ferrata cable until ready to start on the Tyrolean, and then be clipped onto the gear loop of your harness.
Ensure that your arms are at a comfortable distance from the cable, so that you can reach it, at a point behind the pulley, with both hands. Tie up long hair, to avoid the possibility of it snagging in the pulley. The speed at which you travel will depend upon the force with which you start, the angle of the traverse, your weight, the type of pulley used and wind resistance. You can reduce the possibility of your body spinning around by placing both (gloved) hands on top of the pulley. If you stop short of the end of the traverse, you will need to pull yourself along; be very careful not to snag fingers or gloves in the pulley.
Only one person at a time should use a Tyrolean traverse and any specific instructions at the start of the traverse should be followed.
Climbing with children
French via ferratas are an ideal way to introduce children to the pleasure and satisfaction that can be gained from outdoor activities. Although many relatively difficult via ferratas are climbed by appropriately supervised children, the lower grade routes are typically more suitable. Ideally, in addition to standard via ferrata equipment, children should wear a full-body harness and be attached to an adult by rope (see