Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller
yourself.
For those who use in-car GPS navigational tools, the GPS coordinates of each route are provided at the top of each individual route description. GPS devices can normally be rented as part of car hire, but doing so is typically less cost effective than buying your own or using a mobile app. Finding a petrol station is rarely a problem, although they are increasingly reliant on automated distributors. Such machines normally accept chip-and-pin Visa and Mastercard credit cards. Supermarket stations typically have the lowest prices, with the cost of petrol similar to that in the UK. Diesel is around 10 per cent less expensive.
If you choose to hire a car, you can do so from airports and some larger rail stations, and it is best arranged prior to travelling (see Appendix D). Be sure to check the small print for any hidden charges or excesses and check the vehicle, before driving it, for any marks or damage.
The lower Maurienne Valley, as seen from the top of Via Ferrata du Télégraphe (Route 34)
By rail or bus
France has an excellent rail network, which is serviced by fast and modern trains. Prices are reasonable and delays fairly rare. While this may be very useful in getting to and from the Alps, once in the mountains coverage is largely limited to the main valleys. The cheaper alternative of long-distance bus travel within France is currently extremely limited, but may improve in the future.
The local bus network within each administrative area (Département) varies in quality, but in general covers a fairly wide area with a limited number of journeys per day. If you intend to visit the routes by bus, be prepared for a rather time-consuming and complicated experience. Timetables, which should be studied well in advance, are normally available on the internet (see Appendix D) or through local tourist offices.
On foot or bicycle
Perhaps the most rewarding way to visit the routes detailed here is on foot. While not as easy as taking a car, this will certainly give you the greatest opportunity to enjoy the surrounding countryside. There are lots of long-distance walking paths in the French Alps, a number of which pass close to the via ferratas, and a trip combining both activities is entirely possible. While there is not space here to detail such an itinerary, the GR5 path, for example – as described in Paddy Dillon’s The GR5 Trail (Cicerone: second edition, 2013) – could be combined with a visit to 19 of the routes described, as well as several more to the north and south of the area covered.
Cycling is hugely popular in France, and the Alps are home to a number of the most arduous stages of the Tour de France. In spite of the many narrow winding roads that cross the Alps, cycling in the region is relatively safe as both French law and custom encourage other road users to give bikes plenty of room. For those who enjoy hill climbing, quite a few of the via ferratas are situated close to the most popular passes for this activity. For cyclists who prefer a more sedate approach, there are numerous well-marked bike routes throughout the French Alps, details of which are available from local tourist offices. See Cycling in the French Alps by Paul Henderson (Cicerone: second edition, 2008; reprinted with updates, 2013), for more information.
Language
A lack of spoken or written French should be no bar to visiting the French Alps. The area is a popular tourist destination for many English-speaking people and as such plenty of locals will have at least a smattering of English. This is almost always the case in tourist offices and, to a lesser degree, in businesses catering to tourists, for example accommodation providers or outdoor retailers. That said, a little spoken French will go a long way and even a few words or stock phrases will be appreciated by the locals. Appendix C sets out a brief summary of French phrases and words that may be of use on the via ferratas and in interpreting French maps and signs.
The suspension bridge at the start of Via Ferrata Sportive/Noire (Second part) (Route 58, Stage D)
Costs
In addition to the expense of travelling to and around the Alps, accommodation and food, the cost of the actual activity should be limited. The specific equipment required to use the via ferratas (see Equipment), can be bought from climbing and hillwalking shops or through the internet (see Appendix D). A kit consisting of helmet, harness, self-belaying lanyard, rest lanyard and gloves should cost between £150 and £250. A Tyrolean traverse pulley costs about £55. Within the French Alps, you should be able to purchase these items in most larger towns and villages (although it may be considerably more expensive than doing so before leaving home).
If you prefer to rent the equipment, you can do so for €10–20 per day. Some places will offer rental for longer periods at a better rate, but will require a substantial deposit.
If you wish to hire a guide to accompany you on a via ferrata this will cost between €25 and €60 per person, depending on the route and the number of people in the group. Only two of the routes featured in this book require the payment of a small access fee (Routes 54 and 57). Additionally, a handful of routes involve the optional use of a cable car or funicular, for which a charge of €5–10 is levied.
Accommodation
The majority of towns, villages and resorts will have at least one place to stay, and there will usually be a number of different options. Prices and availability vary a great deal, so be prepared to do some research before you visit to obtain the most suitable accommodation. If you prefer not to book in advance, choices may be limited. However, outside the French high season (mid-July to late August) there is normally little difficulty in obtaining lodgings without an advance booking. During these few weeks – when the French take their holidays en masse – even campsites may be full by late afternoon. Additionally, alpine tourist accommodation often closes for several months during the autumn, so from late September onwards you should book in advance.
Hotels vary in quality, from the luxurious (and expensive), which you can find in major destinations, such as Geneva, to the basic. See www.accorhotels.com for an extensive list of motel-style accommodation. For mid-range hotels, often with some character, see www.logishotels.com, and for something more upmarket see www.viamichelin.com. Note that prices in France are normally per room, not per person. Alternatively, if you wish to rent a small house or cottage (gîte), see www.gites-de-france.com. Typically, these are let on a weekly basis and this can be a good option if you want to stay in one place. This website also lists bed and breakfast options. In France these are known as chambres d’hôte, and tend to be fairly upmarket.
Approaching the defensive fosse above the Falaises de la Bastille. Grenoble and the River Isère are seen in the background (Route 41, Stage B)
For those on a more modest budget, campsites are an excellent option and are by far the most common form of accommodation in the French Alps. Most are spacious and clean and some offer a wide range of facilities (pool, restaurant, wifi and so on), although these tend to be a little more costly. Almost all campsites also offer caravan pitches and many have cabins to rent. The best value campsites are normally Campings Municipal, which are operated by the local commune. A tent pitch (emplacement) for two people with car and electricity typically costs between €12 and €20 per night. There are several websites listing campsites, such as www.campingfrance.com.
Another good budget option is gîtes d’étape. These are the French equivalent of private hostels and normally contain a dormitory as well as private rooms. A bed in the dorm should cost €10–20 per night, and dinner, bed and breakfast (demi-pension) €30–45. See www.gites-refuges.com