Via Ferratas of the French Alps. Richard Miller
for a full list. This site also lists mountain refuges, but these will be of limited use as most of the via ferratas are situated at lower altitude in the main valleys. Local tourist offices will also have full details of accommodation in each area. See the individual routes and Appendix D for relevant website addresses.
Maps
It is likely that the majority of readers will visit these routes by car; to that end a good, up-to-date, road atlas is highly recommended. Most of the routes cover a small area and make use of their own purpose-built approach and descent paths. For this reason, a topographical map will be of limited use.
However, for a handful of longer mountain routes such as the Via Ferrata d’Ugine (Route 11) or Via Ferrata l’Aiguillette du Lauzet (Route 51), one may come in handy. In any event, if you plan to extend your outing beyond the via ferrata or just wish to have a better appreciation of the surrounding landscape, a topographical map will be useful. The Institut Géographique National (IGN) produces the standard range of French topographic maps, which are of a similar quality to British Ordnance Survey maps. The most suitable series is the IGN Carte de Randonnée TOP25 series, which has a blue cover. These are widely available from newsagents and tourist offices throughout France and can also be ordered online. The IGN website (www.geoportail.fr), which features scalable topographical and satellite maps, is also extremely useful.
Route grading
(clockwise from top left): typical via ferrata stemple/rung; fingerhold; footplate; small stemple
All the routes in the book have been given three grades. The first is for technical difficulty, the second for exposure, and the third for the seriousness of the surrounding environment.
Technical grade
This indicates the overall technical difficulty of the route or stage and is the most important grading. It is based on how strenuous the route is, the degree of technical movement required, how sustained and/or committing and the difficulty of any bridges or other components requiring balance. The technical grade takes only limited account of the length of the route but gives particular weight to the difficulty of any crux points. Appendix A lists the routes in order of technical grade (1–5) and by approximate difficulty, relative to each other, within each grade.
1 Very few or no strenuous components, involving basic scrambling at most. Suitable for competent and fit hillwalkers.
2 Occasional strenuous moments. Very small overhangs may be present but these are spaced well apart. May also be technical sections requiring some scrambling skills. Suitable for those with such skills or in good physical condition.
3 Fairly strenuous at times, but such moments are well spaced out. Small to medium overhangs may be present. Occasionally, you may be required to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. Possible technical sections requiring good scrambling skills. Suitable for those with such skills or in good physical condition.
4 May contain isolated large overhangs, long fairly strenuous and/or sustained sections. You may be regularly required to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. May involve technically complex sections requiring basic rock-climbing skills. Bridges may require a reasonable sense of balance. Suitable for those with some rock-climbing ability or in very good physical condition.
5 May contain a number of passages that are strenuous, sustained and committing. Technically complex sections, requiring low-grade rock-climbing skills, may be present. You may often have to clip your via ferrata lanyard under pressure. Bridges may require a good sense of balance. Suitable for proven rock climbers or those in excellent physical condition.
Exposure
Exposure is a measure (graded 1–5) of how much empty space there appears to be beneath you and, therefore, how good a head for heights you are likely to require. Routes graded 1 will probably place you near drops of 10 to 20m, with any more exposed positions not being too ‘immediate’. Routes graded 5 will probably involve positions with several tens or hundreds of metres of air directly underfoot. That said, the individual grades do not reflect any specific set of criteria but are solely relative to each other. The grade, ultimately, reflects only the opinion of the author, but should assist readers in assessing whether a route is suitable. Many people find that the more exposure they experience, the less effect it has. So, if you struggle at first with this aspect of via ferratas, persevere and you are likely to find that your head for heights improves.
The exposed ladder (grade 5) at the top of the Grande Dièdre, on Via Ferrata de la Cascade de l’Oule (Route 40, Stage B)
Seriousness
This grade (A–C) indicates the overall seriousness of the environment in which the route is situated. The grade is based on the following criteria: the proximity of the route to towns/villages; altitude; the likely effects of rapidly worsening weather; the danger posed by rockfall, and the general nature of the terrain.
A The route is in or near a town, village or resort. It is at a relatively low altitude and rockfall is not a particular issue. Escape in the event of a sudden deterioration in weather would not normally be problematic.
B The route may be somewhat distant from any population centre and/or at moderately high altitude. Escape from the route in the event of a sudden deterioration in the weather may not be entirely straightforward. Rockfall may be an issue.
C The route is relatively far from any population centre and/or at a relatively high altitude. A sudden deterioration in the weather could have serious consequences. Rockfall may be an issue and the nature of the terrain may demand particular care.
In general, the routes described are situated in comparatively benign settings and the majority are graded A, with only a few graded C. However, it is important to remember that deteriorating weather can cause any route to become a much more serious undertaking. See Dangers for more information on this subject. It is also the case that the nature of terrain can change over time. In particular, rock quality can deteriorate. This has resulted in the temporary or permanent closure of several French via ferratas.
Climbing the third set of bluffs encountered on the Via Ferrata de St-Christophe-en-Oisans, with the River Vénéon directly underfoot (Route 48, Stage A)
The grades assume that a route is undertaken when it is clear of snow and ice, and during periods of reasonable weather. In more challenging conditions, routes may be much harder. Additionally, the technical difficulty of a route can change over time due to polishing of the rock, or minor amendments to the fixed equipment made during inspections.
THE FRENCH GRADING SYSTEM
Many French via ferratas have a semi-official grade, provided by the company that built the route. Typically, these grades run from Facile (easy) to Extrêmement Difficile (extremely difficult). Although the French mountaineering grading system (IFAS) uses the same nomenclature, these two grading systems are entirely unrelated. The individual grades have no defined meaning and the system is not applied consistently to all routes. Therefore, it is not used in this guide.
Equipment
To climb a via ferrata, you will require the following equipment. If in any doubt as to what to get and how to use it, consult with the staff at a climbing shop.
Via ferrata kit (clockwise from top left): VF lanyard with rest lanyard (quickdraw) attached, harness, helmet, gloves, security rope and belay device
Climbing harness
Either a sit harness or a full-body