The GR5 Trail - Vosges and Jura. Elizabeth Smith
Take the narrow footpath on from the castle, zigzagging uphill to join a broad track. Turn left and after only a short distance look out for a path to the right. This climbs up by a sandstone outcrop then rises, steeply at first, and emerges onto a vehicle track where the GR53 continues to the left.
Within minutes, leave by a footpath to the left, to reach a more major path. Follow this uphill to the right to Col de Hichtenbach, where there is a small shelter. Take the track left, signposted to Zigeunerfels, uphill to reach a crossroads. Go straight on, then leave the track by a substantial footpath to the right, signposted to Wasigenstein.
Turn left at a T-junction towards Zigeunerfels and follow this level track, but within 5min watch out for a footpath to the left. This passes the striking sandstone pillars of Zigeunerfels, then drops down to rejoin the track. Almost immediately, turn right to reach a road.
Cross over, and take the footpath which follows alongside the road for a few minutes, then rejoins adjacent to Klingenfels rock. Leave the road by a footpath into the forest, and almost immediately, at a junction with other trails, turn right and continue to Wasigenstein Castle, just off-route. This is another stark ruin perched on a sandstone crag, now partially hidden by trees.
Klingenfels rock
From the castle retrace your steps, fork right towards Obersteinbach, then carry on downhill, crossing a junction. Keep following the waymarks across pastureland to join the end of a lane, which leads into Obersteinbach.
Obersteinbach to Windstein, 5.5km (3.5 miles), 1hr 45min
Hotel/restaurant and chambres d’hôtes in Windstein.
Cross the main road and carry straight on, passing the gîte d’étape. Turn right, up Rue de la Glockengrube, and follow this out of the village and across some pasture.
WILD BOAR
Pastures and forest floors in this area often contain obviously churned-up patches where wild boar have been rooting for food or wallowing in mud. Boar are common in the forests of the Northern Vosges and popular quarry for huntsmen. Walkers rarely get a good view of these animals, which are most active at night, and if disturbed are usually quick to move away. They may hold their ground occasionally, particularly if they have piglets to protect, and the wisest course then is to retreat, as a boar, standing a metre high at the shoulder and weighing in the region of 300kg, is a formidable beast.
Enter woods, and follow the path ahead to a junction in a clearing. Take the small footpath ahead, signposted towards the ruins of Windstein, and when this meets a track, turn right to Col du Wittschloessel.
The route of the GR53 from here as far as Grand Wintersberg uses a multitude of forest tracks and paths. The route description sounds complicated, but waymarking is good and the route is not difficult to follow.
Go straight over the junction at the col, take the left-hand path uphill, then the lower, right-hand path at a fork. When the footpath emerges onto a forest track, turn left to Col du Wineckerthal. Take a footpath opposite then turn right almost immediately onto another track. At a broad fork go left, and then at the next fork, turn right.
On reaching Col du Petit Grueneberg turn left, then immediately take a footpath to the right, up into the woods. This path hairpins up to join a track and the GR53 leaves by an uphill path almost opposite. The route skirts the top of the hill and then drops down to meet another track. Turn right to pass the sign at Wassersteine.
Soon afterwards, follow waymarks leading off along a small footpath to the right, which descends through the trees to join a track. Turn left, then take a footpath to the right. At a fork take the left-hand path, following the waymarks to veer to the left downhill. The scattered houses of Windstein appear through the trees ahead. Turn right down a track to a junction at the edge of Windstein. The GR53 goes right, downhill, passing the path to Vieux Windstein Castle on the left, to reach the former Auberge Aux Deux Châteaux (now chambres d'hôtes). The Hôtel du Windstein is about 1km off-route down the road from here.
Windstein to Grand Wintersberg, 7.5km (4.5 miles), 2hr 45min
The route crosses directly in front of the auberge, passing between the buildings and leaving by a track up into woods. Take a path to the right, going uphill to Nouveau Windstein Castle. Follow the sign to Niederbronn, passing around the ruins, then turn right on meeting a track, which leads down to a minor road. Turn right. The road soon becomes a forest track. Leave by a footpath down to the left and very soon, take another path left. Continue downhill to the road at Vallon de Gruenenthal.
Cross over and go up the track opposite. About 5min later take a footpath down to the left then continue along the slope above a road for perhaps a kilometre, finally dropping down to join the road just outside Wineckerthal. Turn right into the village then leave by a minor road to the left, following this over a stream. Beyond the bridge turn right onto a footpath signed to Grand Wintersberg.
Cross an entrance track, then take a footpath uphill to the left, to a road. Follow the Route Forestière du Buchwald, opposite, to the house at Buchwald, then turn half right towards Col de Borneberg. Join a track and carry straight on but very soon leave to the left.
Look out for a footpath climbing steeply to the left, crossing two forest tracks. Where the path emerges onto a third, look to the right for the footpath continuing up the hill, and on meeting a larger track, go right.
Landscape of the Northern Vosges
The GR53 crosses a junction and meanders among beech trees, clearly waymarked, to reach a track. Turn left to Col de Borneberg and continue to the small shelter at Col du Pottaschkopf.
Just behind the shelter, take a footpath leading to Col de la Liese about 0.5km further on (the Club Vosgien chalet serves drinks on Sundays and holidays). Cross the road opposite the chalet and take a footpath, hairpinning upwards to the late19th-century outlook tower on Grand Wintersberg (580m). From this tower there is a fine view as far as the Black Forest.
Grand Wintersberg to Niederbronn-les-Bains, 4km (2.5 miles), 1hr 25min
Hotels, campsite, restaurants, cafés and shops in Niederbronn.
Follow the path signposted ‘Source Lichteneck’ and cross the next track (blue circle route). Very soon after, a sign directs the GR53 down a path to the left. (Do not continue straight on to Niederbronn by Camp Celtique.)
Hairpin down, cross two tracks and turn right down a third, then soon leave by a footpath to the right. Descend some steps and turn left for a short distance before taking a path to the right. Turn left and continue down this wooded valley.
On meeting a track, go downhill to a busy road. Turn left and pass the buildings of Source Celtique (the waters from this ancient spring are bottled, and widely available). The route soon leaves by a path up into woods on the left and reaches a road.
Turn right, downhill, towards the centre of Niederbronn-les-Bains (the uphill fork leads to the campsite, about 1km away). Turn right at the Passage Publique du Parc Grunelius, and where the tarmac ends fork left down to a street, then turn left to reach the centre of this lively little spa town.
ALSATIAN LANGUAGE
In the streets and shops of Niederbronn-les-Bains local people can sometimes be heard chatting in the local Alsatian language. This is widely used, especially in the north of Alsace, particularly by older people. It went into decline in the years after World War II, but more recently has been recognised as making a valuable contribution to local heritage.
SECTION 2
GR53 NIEDERBRONN-LES-BAINS TO SAVERNE
Niederbronn-les-Bains
Most of this section of the