The GR5 Trail - Vosges and Jura. Elizabeth Smith
through forest in the heartland of the Northern Vosges regional park. Although not high, the landscape is far from flat, with the route leading over a succession of small hills and valleys, and only at occasional lookout points can the extent of the forest really be appreciated. In these quiet woods it is possible that the walker will glimpse wild boar or marten.
Niederbronn-les-Bains is a spa town with ample facilities and many walking trails close by. The archaeological centre for the Northern Vosges is also located here. Just outside the town the GR53 passes the ruins of Wasenbourg Castle, the first of several castles in this section. Grand Arnsbourg Castle stands above the path on an elevated rocky outcrop and the considerable ruins of Lichtenberg Castle, set within a huge defensive wall, dominate the village below.
Lichtenberg is one of several villages passed en route, each with its own character. La Petite-Pierre sits on a fortified promontory, and although small has many tourist facilities. The headquarters of the regional park are situated in the buildings of the restored castle.
In Graufthal some unusual rock dwellings, maisons troglodytiques, lie close to the route. These cottages, built into the sandstone cliff, were inhabited until the 1950s. Further on, the route skirts a series of crags, including a particularly impressive overhang known as the Saut du Prince Charles.
Wasenbourg Castle
This section can be comfortably walked in three days, with suggested stops at Lichtenberg and La Petite-Pierre. A single stop at Wimmenau would allow you to complete the section in two days, but be prepared for a long second day.
SECTION SUMMARY TABLE
| Start | Distance | Ascent/Descent | Time |
| Niederbronn-les-Bains | 3km (2 miles) | 250m/0m | 1hr 15min |
| Wasenbourg Castle | 8km (5 miles) | 100m/330m | 2hr 30min |
| Muhlthal | 7.5km (4.5 miles) | 300m/200m | 2hr 15min |
| Lichtenberg | 6km (3.5 miles) | 0m/100m | 1hr 45min |
| Wimmenau | 6.5km (4 miles) | 100m/80m | 2hr |
| Erckartswiller | 4km (2.5 miles) | 160m/40m | 1hr 15min |
| La Petite-Pierre | 7km (4.5 miles) | 140m/280m | 2hr 15min |
| Graufthal | 12km (7.5 miles) | 200m/210m | 3hr 45min |
SECTION 2
Niederbronn-les-Bains to Saverne
| Start | Niederbronn-les-Bains |
| Distance | 54km (33.5 miles) |
| Maps | IGN TOP100 sheet 112; TOP75 sheet 027; Club Vosgien 1:50,000 sheets 1/8 and part of 2/8 |
Niederbronn-les-Bains to Wasenbourg Castle, 3km (2 miles), 1hr 15min
Hotels, campsite, restaurants, cafés and shops in Niederbronn.
Cross the bridge opposite the tourist office, then turn right to walk alongside the stream through the park. After the amenities block turn left to join the road, then right and soon left, under the railway bridge. Take the Allée des Tilleuls on the right.
After about 1km pass under a road bridge, then turn sharply left. This leads onto a track that soon runs parallel to a busy road. After a very short distance turn right at a waymark and follow the path which zigzags uphill to a vehicle track. A sign indicates a turn to the right, not along the track, but onto a footpath on the far side that heads off through the forest.
After about 20min the path emerges onto another track, close to the remains of a charcoalburners’ site. Go to the right for a short distance and look out for a path branching off left. Follow this up to a junction by Wasenbourg Castle, which is worth a short detour off-route.
Wasenbourg Castle to Muhlthal, 8km (5 miles), 2hr 30min
Restaurant (high class) in Muhlthal.
Retrace your steps to the junction, then follow the path, signposted to Kreuztannen, which soon reaches Cabane Kohlhutte. Take the broad gravel track to the right, and fork left further uphill to the clearing at Kreuztannen. Carry on straight across, but just a few hundred metres beyond, watch out for waymarks to a footpath on the right. The route winds up to reach the lookout tower at Wasenkoepfel.
Follow the main path beyond the tower, through woods and along the edge of a grassy clearing. This soon reaches a major junction where the GR53 heads left to Col de l’Ungerthal, where there is a small shelter. Leave the col by the path just to the left of the shelter, signposted to Holdereck, leading to the road at Col du Holdereck. On the far side, the GR53 takes the left-hand path towards Grand Arnsbourg.
Pass over the Grunschaft junction, and soon afterwards fork left, following a sunken gully as it descends to Grand Arnsbourg Castle. The ruins sit high on an exposed crag, but unfortunately, access is forbidden.
Grand Arnsbourg Castle
Pass to the right of the rock, cross two tracks, then emerge onto a third. Follow this to the left, downhill to the road, and turn right towards Muhlthal. Turn left where waymarked, just before a large restaurant.
Muhlthal to Lichtenberg, 7.5km (4.5 miles), 2hr 15min
Hotels/restaurants and gîte in Lichtenberg.
Cross the footbridge and follow the path to the right, close to the back of the restaurant, then cross another small bridge. The path rises and joins the end of a lane. Follow this to a T-junction and turn left, then soon left again onto a track by a lake.
The route takes a left fork signposted for Lichtenberg. Only a few minutes later turn right then immediately look out for a footpath to the left, which leads up through the forest for about half an hour. At Col du Baerenberg, turn right, but be prepared for the next junction which is easy to miss.
Within about 1km a signpost indicates that Niederbronn is 4hr 50min away. The GR leaves obliquely along a footpath to the left, but the path is currently not well waymarked. The church at Lichtenberg can soon be picked out on the hill ahead. When the path meets a gravel track, take the left-hand, downhill direction, fork left 10min later, and on joining another track, keep straight on. At Pulverbruecke a GR sign directs the route left onto a road.
Cross over, and take the waymarked footpath up through the woods, joining a wider track. The village of Lichtenberg is on the hill ahead, and the houses below form the hamlet of Picardie. The track climbs into woods and rises up behind Picardie, passes the end of a road, and curves downhill to a junction. Follow the sign left into Lichtenberg. There is a drinking water point outside the gîte.
Lichtenberg to Wimmenau, 6km (3.5 miles), 1hr 45min
Hotel/restaurant and shops in Wimmenau.
At a T-junction just