Cycling the Canal du Midi. Declan Lyons
train stations at intervals along the length of the Canal du Midi in Toulouse, Castelnaudary, Bram, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Port la Nouvelle, Béziers, Vias, Agde, Marseillan Plage and Sète. There are stations near the canal between Toulouse and Castelnaudary at Labège (Innopole and Village), Baziège, Villenouvelle, Villefranche-de-Lauragais and Avgnonet-Lauragais, which are very useful for those wanting relatively short cycles. High-speed trains – TGVs – link France’s and Europe’s main cities. These serve Toulouse, Carcassonne, Béziers, Narbonne, Agde and Sète. The Eurostar connects with the French high-speed service and runs services from three international stations: St Pancras in central London; Ebbsfleet, just off the M25 (Junction 2); and Ashford in Kent. The Eurostar Lyon–South of France route serves Lyon, Avignon and Marseille.
Some French trains have designated storage for bikes
The French railway company, Société Nationale Chemin de fer Francais (SNCF), allows bikes on its trains. Timetables can be checked on its website www.voyages-sncf.com.
Bicycles must be prepared for carriage on the Eurostar services and certain TGV and French intercity trains. The bikes must fit into a cover measuring 190 x 90cm. Eurostar allows partially dismantled bikes on the train as carry-on luggage but the handlebars, saddle and wheels must be removed. Alternatively, it may be placed in a baggage compartment free of charge.
Eurostar offers a registered baggage service on certain trains but only from London. They guarantee that the bike will be available for collection within 24 hours of registration, and advise on how to send a bike ahead so that it’s there on your arrival. First Luggage offers a baggage collection and delivery service for Eurostar passengers. You should check Eurostar’s website (www.eurostar.com) if you plan to travel with them. Within France, SNCF offers a similar door-to-door service (home or train station) and you’ll find further details at www.sncf.com/en/services/luggage.
Some TGVs and intercity trains have special compartments for bikes, meaning they don’t need to be dismantled. You should reserve this when booking your ticket. Local trains (TER) and some Corail allow you to put your bike in the baggage compartment or hang it by its wheel from a special hook in a designated carriage on board. Remove anything that might fall off when you have to hang up your bike.
The SNCF website and timetables use a bicycle symbol to indicate trains that allow bikes on board. There is a restriction on the number of bikes allowed on any train. Find out more on their website: www.voyages-sncf.com.
There may be charges for bringing your bike on a train and these vary depending upon the service you’re using.
View of Cap d’Agde from Mont St-Loup (Stage 5)
Passports and travel requirements
Travellers from the UK and Ireland must have a valid passport or passport card to travel in France. Ensure that your passport remains in date for the length of your stay. France accepts identity cards from citizens of the EU issuing these. As the UK and Ireland do not operate all of the Schengen agreement (which allows free travel without border controls between participating countries) a residency or visa for another EU country does not give you an automatic right to enter France. The French embassy website (UK), www.ambafrance-uk.org, gives information on visa requirements.
Australian, Canadian, New Zealand and US citizens don’t need a visa for a stay of less than 90 days, but require a full passport. Non-EU visitors to France must have, ready for presentation at the border, documentary evidence of the reason for their visit, means of support for the duration and their accommodation arrangements.
Towpath permits
The Voies Navigables de France (VNF) manages the Canal du Midi and controls the use of the towpath. It works with local authorities and where it is appropriate makes the path available to the public.
There are stretches of the towpath that are not open to the public and a permit is needed to cycle these stretches. The section from Port Lauragais to Vias requires a permit even though stretches of this are advertised as cycle paths. You also need a permit for the section from Sallèles-d’Aude to Narbonne. Cycling on the towpath from Agde to Marseillan is forbidden.
You may apply for a permit by emailing [email protected], giving the dates that you intend to travel, the number of people cycling and your intended route.
Accommodation
There is a wide range of accommodation available along the canal, ranging from expensive hotels to very basic campsites. Your options include hotels, hostels, chambres d’hôtes (bed and breakfasts), gîtes (holiday homes for rent), camping and chalets in campsites.
Hotels vary from anonymous chains to small family-owned premises. The chain hotels, in major towns or close to the motorway, are relatively cheap and offer clean but basic rooms. You pay extra for breakfast and any other service. Chain hotels such as B&B and Ibis are situated close to the canal in Toulouse. The rooms are usually en suite but some are room only.
Chambre d’hôte in Port Lauragais
The quality of smaller French hotels varies widely and you should check out rooms before you accept them. Cheaper hotels may have very limited facilities, and not all rooms are the same. You may find that the bathroom and toilet are shared by everyone on a corridor. Most rooms have a wash handbasin, while it is possible that you may be offered a room with a shower but without a toilet.
Five-star hotels will charge in excess of €150 a room; chains charge between €35 and €90; smaller hotels may charge less than €60 a room. There is usually a supplement for an additional person.
Chambres d’hôtes are the French equivalent of British bed and breakfasts. Like small French hotels, they vary in price and quality. Usually, the quality is good and some are excellent. Check the rooms in advance. Most chambres d’hôtes offer evening meals and these are usually communal. The standard of catering is generally very good and most use local produce. Charges vary greatly, with some charging over €100 for a night but most charging between €40 and €90 for bed and breakfast, with evening meals costing an extra €15 to €20. Supplements for a second person apply.
Some hotels and chambres d’hôtes offer a special deal for dinner, bed and breakfast known as soirée étape, which is often excellent value.
Gîtes are self-catering and may be a holiday home, wood chalet or an apartment. They are usually booked in advance and for at least a week. On occasions you may be able to hire one for an overnight or a few nights’ stay. You generally have to provide your own towels and sheets although some owners will provide these for cyclists. Gîtes are usually well equipped, and you are expected to clean and tidy fully before you leave.
Camping is a great option and there are campsites close to all the routes described in this guide. The sites vary from very basic – usually municipal – to five-star with swimming pools, restaurants, discothèques and tennis courts. Larger campsites may be noisy during the high season, and most are closed between October and April. Pitches for tents cost between €12 and €30 a night. Some campsites rent chalets or caravans by the night if they are available; these are normally rented by the week from Saturday to Saturday. There are extra charges for more people, dogs, electricity supply and vehicles.
Note that all prices increase during the high season and accommodation becomes more difficult to find. Hotels are open year-round in Toulouse, Villefranche de Lauragais, Castelnaudary, Bram, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Capestang, Béziers, Vias, Agde and Sète.
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