Cycling the Canal du Midi. Declan Lyons

      You’ll find fresh produce in the countryside beside the canal

      Farmers often sell their produce directly; you can buy fruit and vegetables for a very reasonable price. Asparagus comes into season in April, quickly followed by berries such as strawberries and raspberries. Vegetables also come into season early and you can buy new potatoes, courgettes, carrots and aubergines throughout the summer. Fresh, tasty tomatoes are available directly from producers along the route.

      Figs are abundant in June and September, and can often be picked from trees growing close to the canal; melons grow in fields near the towpath. Autumn fruits such as grapes, apples and pears also grow close by, while almonds are grown in many places.

      The Mediterranean Sea is a great source of fish and seafood and Thau oysters can be bought from outlets in the villages close to the sea. There are fishmongers in the small towns and villages along the route too.

      Meat is an important part of French diet, and there are butchers’ shops in all towns and many larger villages. Horsemeat is still eaten in France and you may see signs for viande cheval or chevaline.

      The presence of the canal boosted the wine trade in the 19th century. The trade continues, although it is declining in the face of competition from cheaper foreign wines and over-production in the EU. Local wines are excellent and can be bought directly from vineyards passed en route. It would be impossible to list all of the wine-producing regions close to the canal but they include les Corbières, Minerve, Thau, Pinet, La Clape, Fitou and St Chinian. Popular varieties of grape are (reds) Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon; (whites) Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne, Clairette, Viognier and Muscat. Sweet Muscat is a popular fortified dessert wine.

      Restaurants and cafés

      There are relatively cheap restaurants and cafés along the canal; those catering for tourists are only open from after Easter to October. There is a wide range of eating opportunities, from pizza outlets to traditional places with starched white tablecloths and formally dressed waiters.

      Set meals are the cheapest option in most restaurants and lunches are usually the best value. A set lunch can cost as little as €11 per head and will include a starter, main course and sometimes dessert. Occasionally, a quarter-litre of house wine is included.

      Meat and fish dishes are the main specialities. From Toulouse to Castelnaudary restaurants serve cassoulet, which includes pork, local sausages, haricot beans and garlic. La teille Sètoise is an octopus, onion and tomato filling seasoned with herbs and topped with pastry – a recipe that was brought to Sète by Italian fishermen in the late 19th century. Ratatouille is popular in the south of France and is best served at room temperature in summer.

      Seafood is plentiful along the coast

      Vegetarians are rarely able to benefit from set meals as the main course is usually fish or meat. French restaurants may attempt to serve vegetarians fish or chicken dishes, and some stuffed vegetables may contain meat. You will find a wide range of salads, including warm goat’s cheese salad, as alternatives. There are a few restaurants along the canal that specialise in tarts and quiches and there is usually at least one vegetarian option. One of the best is at Castanet lock.

      Restaurant closing times are strictly observed. You will find it hard to get lunch after 2.30pm and last orders for dinner aren’t usually accepted after 9.30pm.

      Shops and markets

      Shopping for food along the canal is a delight, in hypermarkets, supermarkets, small local stores, specialist shops, or from travelling vans and local producers. In addition there are markets, at least weekly, in most towns and large villages.

      The boulangerie and patisserie form the cornerstones of village life, and villagers buy their bread and croissants fresh daily. Baguettes are excellent for picnics but will only stay fresh for a few hours.

      Smaller shops open early in the morning at 7.30am and close between 12.30 and 4pm in the afternoon. They close in the evening around 6.30 or 7pm. Some may open on Sunday morning.

      French markets are a blaze of colour and scents, with stallholders selling everything from fruit and vegetables to clothes and hardware. The markets normally start at 8am and finish at 12pm. There are some evening and night markets in summer, often as part of festivals. Markets are usually held in the main square or along the main street. Larger towns such as Béziers and Narbonne also have covered permanent enclosed food markets open in the morning only.

      See Appendix C for detailed information about market days in the towns along the route.

      There are markets in most towns and villages

Your bike

      Bicycle bridge beside the road to Lastours (Excursion 2)

      Buying or renting a bike

      Bringing a bike on a plane can be difficult and expensive. It’s possible to buy second-hand bikes relatively cheaply in the major towns along the Canal du Midi. Obviously, choice will depend on availability; bikes may be in shorter supply in high season, pushing up the price and reducing choice.

      Bikes are good value in France and you may decide to buy a new one there. Major stores such as Decathlon (www.decathlon.fr) and Intersport (www.intersport.fr) in or on the outskirts of the major cities and towns specialise in sports equipment. (Note that even the large outlets may not have your size or the model you want on the day that you visit.) You’ll find Decathlon and/or Intersport stores in Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Béziers and Agde. In addition there are bike shops along the route and these will carry a good range of models. Large supermarkets also stock bikes in summer.

      You can hire bikes (location velo) in most centres along the canal. These vary from professional outfits to small operations with a limited supply. Boat hire companies usually offer bikes for hire to those renting boats from them. You should hire your bike from shops or agents who have their own mechanics and workshops, as otherwise hired bikes deteriorate during the season. Hiring a bike is a good option if you’re only planning to cycle for a day or two; however, the cost of bike hire has increased in recent years and it may be cheaper to buy a second-hand bike than hire one for a prolonged period.

      Note: having hired or bought a bike, check which brake lever operates which brakes before you start to cycle!

      There are specialist companies who offer holiday services, from simple bike hire through to a complete service including accommodation and baggage transport. They cater for individuals and groups. Companies such as Relax Rentals offer bikes, trailers and other cycling gear for rent. They also organise holidays, including the arrangement of accommodation and baggage transfer (www.relaxbiketours.com). Large UK tour companies offer this service through partners along the canal, but you can contact the local companies directly if you want a more tailored response.

      Choosing the right type of bike

      You can match parts of the routes in this guide to any type of bike. I’ve used most sorts on the towpath. The tarmac stretches from Toulouse to Port Lauragais and Béziers to Portiragnes are suitable for a racer or thin-wheeled training bike, which may also be used on the road excursions

---

Скачать книгу