Cycling the Canal du Midi. Declan Lyons
However, the bulk of the towpath is clay and bumpy; it can be cycled on a touring bike but an all-terrain bike (ATB) or hybrid is better. I prefer a bike with front suspension to absorb the constant bumps that might otherwise cause repetitive stress injury. A reasonable spread of gears is required if you make the excursions into the mountains. Good brakes are essential. Broader tyres (38mm upwards) are better for dealing with the rougher stretches. The path can become very muddy in wet weather and the heavy clay will collect on tyres with deep threads. Mud can clog brakes or immobilise wheels.
Consider using a bike with quick-release wheels, or fitting these if you’re bringing a bike that hasn’t got them already. Assume that you will suffer at least one puncture on the route. Quick-release wheels make it a lot easier to swap a tube or fix a puncture.
A comfortable saddle is essential: gel-filled saddles or gel-filled covers will absorb the harder knocks, and a suspension saddle serves the same purpose.
Fit a water bottle holder to your bike frame. These are easy to attach and most bikes have nuts for attaching them. Ensure that your bottle fits snugly into the holder.
Panniers, tool bag and handlebar bag are all useful
You’ll need a rear carrier if you use panniers. This should be strong enough to take the weight of your bags and a tent if you plan to camp. Most carriers support a maximum load of 20kg.
Fix front and back reflectors on your bike. Reflectors on your spokes are worth fitting too as roads are crossed regularly along the canal. Wear a high-visibility jacket in low light. Bring front and rear lights; it’s best to have detachable ones to avoid theft. However, the lights will be insufficient for cycling on the unlit stretches of the canal.
Looking after your bike
Get your bike serviced before you leave. A basic repair kit is essential and should include:
puncture repair kit
spanners and Allen keys to fit all nuts and bolts
pump (mini foot pump preferably)
spoke tightener
screwdriver matching the screws on your bike
two replacement tubes
replacement tyre
replacement spokes and screws.
Learn how to change a tube and tyre before you set out. Get your local bike shop to show you how to adjust your brakes and gears. Find out which nuts you need to tighten regularly; for example, you should check the nuts on your carrier daily as these can work loose and shear.
You should make sure that your tyres are fully inflated each day before starting to cycle as this helps protect against punctures.
There are bike repair shops in the main centres along the route (see Appendix C); these will repair bikes and sell the supplies that you may need.
What to take
Those preparing for a cycle tour should follow the golden rule of packing: lay out everything you want to take and leave half behind.
Obviously, the season will determine what clothes you take. Prepare for cold wet weather in winter: thermal undershirts and socks are worthwhile and cycling gloves are essential. Warm cycling jackets and long cycling trousers are also necessary, as are lightweight breathable waterproof tops and leggings.
Light, cool clothes will be required in summer, but bring compact waterproofs in case of poor weather. Expect it to be hot. Light cycling tops and shorts are essential; these should be easy to wash and dry as they’ll become very dusty quickly. Shorts should cover your thighs even on the upstroke when pedalling to avoid the risk of sunburn. Cycling shorts with a chamois leather pad are very useful; wash daily to avoid saddle sores. You should also consider bringing a tub of Sudocrem to help prevent saddle sores and treat them should you suffer from them. This is not generally available in France.
Sunglasses are useful throughout the year, but essential in summer. Buy pairs with removable lenses and replace the darkened glass with lowlight lenses in the evening as a protection against insects and dust. Bring a sunhat for those times when you’re not cycling and not wearing your helmet. You’ll need sun cream; anti-mosquito cream and lotion for treating bites; a small first aid kit with bandages, scissors, tweezers, (for thorns or splinters) and antiseptic cream; and a supply of any medication you take regularly.
What bags to use
A handlebar bag is very useful for holding valuables such as a camera, mobile phone etc. Bags with a clear plastic map holder on top are particularly handy.
Use panniers to carry your personal effects; avoid taking a heavy rucksack if you plan to cycle for several days as it can chafe your shoulders and back. Rear panniers will hold most of your possessions and are available in a range of shapes and sizes. You can buy high-quality back panniers that are waterproof and easy to secure. Saddlebag-style panniers (three bags joined together) are another alternative; one bag sits on the pannier and the other two on either side.
Make sure that the bags don’t impede your pedalling. Use panniers you can adjust to allow your feet free movement. The route is dusty, and some cyclists use plastic covers to protect their panniers.
A single-wheeled trailer
Those wanting to carry a lot of gear should consider a bike trailer. These hold more but are harder to manoeuvre. The towpath is narrow in places and a single-wheeled trailer is the best option should you choose to use one.
Some bike rental shops also hire out both panniers and trailers.
Cycling the towpath
Remember that the path you use is a towpath and was created for horses pulling barges to walk upon. Parts have been developed and are tarmacadamed; others are clay and relatively easy to cycle; some are rutted and have roots protruding; and some are narrow with just enough room to cycle.
Some stretches are hard to cycle
The following stretches of the towpath are harder to cycle:
the 6km from Port Lauragais towards Castelnaudary
from Bram to Carcassonne
from Pigasse for 3km towards Capestang
from Portiragnes Plage bridge to Vias
the section from Agde to Marseillan – and it is prohibited to cycle on this stretch.
All of these stretches, with the exception of Agde to Marseillan, may be cycled with care. I’ve cycled the entire route many times and towed a single-wheeled trailer over all of it bar the Agde stretch.
Some people who are unused to off-road cycling may find it challenging but it is perfectly doable. The 10-year-olds from the local primary school near my home cycle it every year. I’ve met many parents cycling with their children in tow in trailers and encounter cyclists aged from eight to 80.
The shift from vines to cereal crops has resulted in much larger agricultural vehicles using parts of the towpath. These can dig up the path in wet weather and leave large ruts and craters.
The good news is that the route is being developed as part of the cycle route V80, which will run from Bordeaux to Sète. This is a long-term project but there should be gradual improvement over the coming decade.
SHADE AND THE PLANE TREES
Dead plane trees
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