Natural Soap. Melinda Coss
of Malaysia and Indonesia, has led to the destruction of forests that support endangered wildlife, particularly tree-dwelling primates. Palm oil is traditionally a soap-making staple and you can buy it from sustainable sources – just make sure you ask your potential supplier the right questions.
| FATTY ACID | PROPERTIES IT LENDS TO SOAP |
| LAURIC ACID | Hard bar, cleansing, fluffy lather, fast trace |
| LINOLEIC ACID | Conditioning |
| MYRISTIC ACID | Hard bar, cleansing, fluffy lather |
| OLEIC ACID | Conditioning |
| PALMITIC ACID | Hard bar, stable lather |
| RICINOLEIC ACID | Conditioning, fluffy stable lather |
| STEARIC ACID | Hard bar, stable lather |
OILS, FATS AND BUTTERS
The following list describes the principal properties of a variety of oils, fats and butters that can be used in your products. To help you understand the terminology, the table on page 10 shows what the fatty acids actually contribute to your soaps in terms of quality and feel, and the higher the percentage specified next to the oil the greater the contribution. The iodine value also contributes to the hardness of a soap bar, but in this case the lower the value the harder the bar.
Oils marked with an asterisk (*) are basic, relatively-affordable soap making oils otherwise known as ‘base oils’. The others are quite precious but can be used in small quantities in your soaps. The really expensive oils should be reserved for your cream and lotion recipes.
If an oil is described as being high in antioxidants, this means it is full of vitamins, minerals and enzymes that will protect both your skin and the product itself from degeneration.
ALMOND OIL (sweet) *
Good base for creams and body oils, high in Omega 9 and vitamins A and B, makes a white bar of soap. Good inexpensive base for creams and lotions.
INCI: Prunus dulcis
Oleic: 64–82 %
Linoleic: 8–28%
Palmitic: 6–8%
Iodine: 93–106
APRICOT KERNEL OIL
Good for sensitive, dry and problem skins, has excellent skin softening qualities.
INCI: Prunus armeniaca
Oleic: 58–74%
Linoleic: 20–34%
Palmitic: 4–7%
Iodine: 92–108
ARGAN NUT OIL
Rich in antioxidants and vitamin E, an excellent choice for mature or dry skins.
INCI: Argania spinosa
Oleic: 42.8%
Linoleic: 36.8%
Palmitic: 12%
Stearic: 6%
Iodine: 98
AVOCADO OIL *
A semi-fatty oil with a high vitamin content. A good choice for problem skins.
INCI: Persea gratissima
Oleic: 36–80%
Palmitic: 7–32 %
Linoleic: 6–18%
Stearic: 1.5%
Iodine: 82–90
BABASSU OIL *
Properties similar to those in coconut oil with high lauric acid content. Rich and moisturizing.
INCI: Orbygnia oleifera
Lauric: 50%
Myristic: 20%
Palmitic: 11%
Oleic: 10%
Stearic: 3.5%
Iodine: 10-20
BOABAB OIL *
Rich in Omega acids and vitamin D. Creates a barrier that protects the skin.
INCI: Adansonia digitata
Palmitic: 24%
Oleic: 36%
Linoleic: 31%
Iodine: 88
BORAGE OIL
High in gama linolenic acid, helps to lock in moisture and smooth the skin. An ideal choice for a baby cream.
INCI: Borago officinalis
Palmitic: 10–11%
Oleic: 16–20%
Linoleic: 35–38%
Stearic: 3.5–4.5%
Iodine: 165–185
BLACK CUMIN OIL
Rich in essential fatty acids, good for problem skin and promotes smoothness.
INCI: Nigella sativa
Oleic: 64%
Palmitic: 11.7%
Linoleic: 12%
Linolenic: 70%
Iodine: 110–125
CALENDULA OIL
Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory, excellent oil for damaged and sensitive skin.
INCI: Calendula officinalis
Calendula oil is made by macerating the flowers in a base oil therefore the fatty acid values relate to the specific base oil used rather than the calendula itself. Check the identity of the base oil with your supplier.
CANOLA OIL *
(A specific variety of rapeseed oil used in the US.) Used mainly as an inexpensive filler in soap making, canola or rapeseed oil does tend to produce a soft, low-lathering soap and is best used in combination with an equal or higher percentage of coconut oil.
INCI: Canola for canola oil or Brassica campestris for rapeseed oil
Oleic: 32%
Linoleic: 15%
Palmitic: 1%
Iodine: 105–120
CASTOR SEED OIL *
Used in soap for its high foaming properties, this oil is particularly useful in shampoos and shaving soaps but does accelerate trace.
INCI: Ricinus communis
Ricinoleic: 90%
Linoleic: 3–4%
Oleic: