Natural Soap. Melinda Coss
oils are extremely concentrated and powerful and whilst when used with knowledge and care they are undoubtedly beneficial to the skin, if you use them heavily just to increase fragrance they can be dangerous. EU cosmetic legislation now also requires you to list on your product labels some specific allergens that occur naturally within many essential oils.
When making creams and lotions you can create a light scent by replacing the water content with a flower water or hydrosol (see page 125). Because only a tiny amount of essential oil is needed to fragrance a cream, you can also use some of the precious essential oils such as neroli or Roman camomile, both of which are reasonably safe for those prone to eczema or dermatitis. Below are some of the more popular essential oils and their properties. You will also find a chart on pages 110–111 that will help you choose fragrances for specific skin types.
CAMOMILE (Roman) (Athemis nobilis) Top note
Distilled from the flowers and leaves, a great choice for those with sensitive skin, including babies.
CARDOMOM (Elletaria cardamomum) Top note
Extracted from the plant seed this pungent and spicy oil works well with blends of cinnamon, orange and frankincense. Irritant so use only in very small quantities.
CEDARWOOD ATLAS (Cedrus atlantica) Base note
Distilled from the wood this refreshing, clean fragrance is great for masculine toiletries and holds up well in cold process soap.
CINNAMON LEAF (Cinnamomum verum J.) Middle note
Not to be confused with cinnamon bark oil (which should not be used), cinnamon leaf oil is fine in small quantities and blends beautifully with ginger and orange.
CLOVE (Eugenia caryophyllata – bud) Base/middle note
Useful boost for spicy blends but should be used in tiny quantities as it is high in allergens. Should not be used during pregnancy. Accelerates trace in soaps.
EUCALYPTUS (Eucalyptus globulus) Top note
Powerful clean scent, good for blending with citrus fragrances, antifungal and antiseptic.
FRANKINCENSE (Boswellia carterii) Base note
Distilled gum resin and precious oil with a deep, spicy, sweet fragrance. Blend with lavender and neroli for a real treat.
GERANIUM (Pelargonium graveolens) Middle note
The Egyptian variety is reasonably priced and holds well in soap. This is the closest you will get to a rose scent without breaking the bank. Delicious heady, floral fragrance.
GINGER (Zingiber officinale) Middle note
Adds an interesting twist to citrus blends but can cause irritation so only use in very small amounts.
GRAPEFRUIT (Citrus paradisi) Top note
Does not hold well in cold processed soaps but a good choice for liquid soap. Nice addition to lavender.
HOWOOD LEAF (Cinnamomum camphora) Middle note
Only use in very small quantities due to the possibility of skin irritation. Has a sweet, earthy fragrance that blends well with sweet orange and lavender.
LAVENDER (Lavendula officinalis) Top note
A wonderful staple oil that holds up well. Even if you hate lavender, understand that lavender soap outsells all other varieties 8 to 1.
LEMON (Citrus limonum) Top note
Therapeutic and healing when used in creams but unless cleverly blended does not hold up well in cold processed soap. Try Litsea cubeba or Lemongrass as a refreshing citrus alternative.
LEMONGRASS (Cymbopogon citratus) Top note
Refreshing citrus fragrance that holds well in cold processed soap and blends well with lavender. Excellent choice for men but can cause irritation so keep the percentages low.
MANDARIN (Citrus reticulate) Top note
A citrus scent with floral undertones, lovely in liquid soap and creams but no staying power in cold processed soaps.
MAY CHANG (Litsea cubeba) Top note
Has a great citrus scent that can be used to anchor other scents. Holds up very well in cold process soap.
NEROLI (Melaleuca viridiflora) Middle note
Used as the basis for eau de cologne, this bitter orange blossom scent is highly prized and priced and should not be wasted in cold processed soap.
PALMAROSA (Cymbopogon martini) Middle note
Fresh, sweet and floral with a rose geranium overtone. Has moisturizing and balancing properties.
PATCHOULI (Pogostemon patchouli) Base note
The stuff of incense sticks and cachous, patchouli is a wonderful anchor for blends and brings on waves of 60s nostalgia when used on its own. Lovely with geranium and/or lavender.
PEPPERMINT (Metha piperata) Top note
A stimulating oil that is good in foot creams and insect repellents. Should not be used during the first three months of pregnancy.
TEA TREE (Melaleuca alternifolia) Top note
Antiseptic in both purpose and fragrance and will help to preserve creams and lotions. Good for insect bites and acne.
YLANG YLANG (Cananga odorata) Middle note
Heady floral fragrance that holds up well in cold process soap and adds a touch of romance to a blend of oils.
HERBS, SPICES AND ADDITIVES
Once you have decided on the oils you want to use in your base recipe there are numerous delights you can add at the trace stage (when your soap thickens) to enhance the texture and performance of your product. This is the really fun part of soap making.
If you want a bar to have exfoliating qualities experiment by adding dried herbs, poppy seeds, pumice powder, ground orange or lemon peel, dried seaweed, oatmeal, bran (or other pulses), salt or sugar. There are also a vast number of seeds and fruit powders on the market such as raspberry and strawberry seeds and ground fruit kernels (try olive or apricot for a scrubby effect).
Dried flower petals (rose, lavender and calendula) can also be added at trace but bear in mind that only calendula (marigold) will retain its colour – sadly everything else turns brown over time.
The amount of dried additive you use is purely a matter of taste and has no bearing on the saponification process, but if you are using any dried ‘live matter’ it is a good idea to add 1 per cent vitamin E oil to your formula to help preserve it.
Pureed fruit or aloe vera can also be added to your soap. Deduct the weight from the weight of the water in your formula and add the pulp/gel to the lye water before mixing the soap.
Argile clay, added at trace, gives your soap ‘slip’ and helps to draw out any impurities in the skin. It can also be used in creams and is available in green, pink, yellow and red so it adds natural colour (see page 59). Coffee grounds act as deodorizers and are a good option for kitchen soap as they will help to get the smell of garlic and onions off your hands. Simply make a pot of coffee, drain out the coffee grounds and add these at trace. If you want a dark brown soap, use the actual coffee instead