Natural Soap. Melinda Coss
COCOA BUTTER
High in saturated fats and vitamin E, cocoa butter is a natural moisturizer that will add hardness to your soap and body to your creams.
INCI: Theobroma cacao
Oleic: 34–36%
Stearic: 31–35%
Palmitic: 25–30%
Linoleic: 3%
Iodine 33–42
COCONUT OIL *
Copra and RBD (refined, bleached and deodorized) coconut oil are the soap maker’s staple, creating a hard bar soap with a rich foam. Used alone it can be drying so should be combined with other oils. A soap made from 100 per cent coconut oil will foam in salt water. The rarer virgin coconut oil is high in saturated fatty acids and acts as a good moisturizer and thickener in creams.
INCI: Cocos nucifera
Lauric: 39–54%
Myristic: 15–23%
Palmitic: 6–11%
Oleic: 4–11%
Stearic: 1–4%
Linoleic: 1–2%
Iodine: < 10
COMFREY OIL
Macerated in sunflower or olive oil, comfrey contains allantoin, a cell-proliferant that helps repair damaged tissue.
INCI: Symphytum officianale
The fatty acid profile for comfrey oil depends on the base oil it is macerated in. Clarify this with your supplier.
EMU OIL
This is an anti-inflammatory oil popular with Australian and South African soap makers, and is becoming more so in the US. Whilst I personally can’t bring myself to try soap made from emus, reports are that it adds greatly to the moisturizing qualities of bar soap.
INCI: Emu oil
Linoleic: 14%
Myristic: 0.4%
Oleic: 50%
Palmitic: 21%
Stearic: 9%
Iodine: 75
EVENING PRIMROSE OIL
High in gamma linolenic acid, excellent in creams and lotions for mature skin.
INCI: Oenothera biennis
Palmitic: 5.5–7%
Oleic: 5–11%
Stearic: 1.5–2.5%
Linoleic: 70–77%
Iodine 135–165
GRAPE SEED OIL
A light base oil that is easily absorbed by the skin, firms up and regenerates. Rich in vitamins and minerals.
INCI: Vitis vinifera
Linoleic: 58–78%
Oleic: 12–28%
Palmitic: 5–11%
Stearic: 3–6%
Iodine: 125–142
HEMP SEED OIL *
High percentage of essential fatty acids and vitamins, moisturizing and helps to balance dry skin. Makes a gorgeous soap but used on its own has a short shelf life.
INCI: Cannabis sativa
Oleic: 12%
Linoleic: 57%
Palmitic: 6%
Stearic: 2%
Linolenic: 21%
Iodine: 166.5
JOJOBA OIL
Actually a wax, not an oil, jojoba easily penetrates the skin and provides a protective barrier. Adds thickness to creams and is very conditioning when used in hair products.
INCI: simmondsia chinensis
Oleic: 10–13%
Iodine: 80–85
LARD (pig fat) *
Makes a hard, cleansing soap bar with plenty of foam.
INCI in soap: sodium lardate
Oleic: 46%
Palmitic: 28%
Stearic: 13%
Linoleic: 6%
Myristic: 1%
Iodine: 43–45
MACADEMIA NUT OIL
High in omega 9, this fatty oil penetrates and moisturizes dry and mature skin.
INCI: macademia tetraphylla
Oleic: 54–63%
Palmitic: 7–10%
Stearic: 2–6%
Linoleic: 1–3%
Iodine: 73–79
MARULA OIL
Great antioxidant, originally used on its own as a cleansing, moisturizing body oil.
INCI: sclerocarya birrea
Oleic: 70–78%
Palmitic: 9–12%
Stearic: 5–8%
Linoleic: 4–7%
Iodine: 70–76
MEADOWFOAM OIL
A very stable oil that is great for dry or sensitive skin. Highly moisturizing and rejuvenating, it is great in creams and lotions
INCI: Limnanthes alba
Oleic: 3.2%
Iodine: 92
MELON OIL (Kalahari)
Rich in fatty acids and vitamin C, detoxifying and rejuvenating. Light and easily absorbed by the skin.
INCI: Citrallus lanatus
Oleic: 16–17%
Palmitic: 11–12%
Stearic: 7.5–8%
Linoleic: 50–70%
Iodine: 120–130
OLIVE OIL *
The first choice of many soap makers, pure olive oil soaps get better as they get older but trace and harden very slowly. You either love or hate the slightly oily feel and the slow lather. A relatively low cost option for a cream or lotion base.
INCI: Olea Europaea
Oleic: 63–81%
Palmitic: 7–14%
Linoleic: 5–15%
Stearic: 3–5%
Iodine: 79–95
PALM OIL *
Provided