Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair. Barry Fletcher
as split ends, is among the most common cause of hair breakage and will result when the tip of the hair shaft is broken at the cortex. When the cortex is exposed, it becomes dry and the ends begin to fray or split, leaving the hair with a dull, ragged and thirsty appearance. Excessive use of chemicals such as no-lye relaxers and permanent color also rob the hair of its moisture and further promotes split ends.
To help avoid split ends, trim the hair every six to eight weeks or in conjunction with your touchups. When using steam or regular rollers, always apply endpapers to protect the hair strand and maintain proper moisture balance in the hair.
Traction is another major cause of hair breakage and occurs when the hair strand is pulled or rubbed against one another. This hair tension or friction is self-inflicted and can occur when you wear tight pony tails, hair pieces, barrettes, rollers, braids and weaves, or while brushing and combing the hair.
To reduce breakage from traction, avoid pulling the hair too tight around the hairlines. When opting to wear ponytails, avoid rubber bands. If possible, wrap your own hair around the ponytail to hold it in place. Also, avoid sleeping with rollers or wearing accessories with metal clips.
HAIR LOSS
In the past two decades we have witnessed some of the greatest medical and scientific advances in the nation's history. Cures have been discovered for ailments that have baffled mankind for centuries. Just recently we witnessed a 77-year-old man walk on the moon, yet we have not figured out what causes baldness and hair loss or how to stop them. We don't even know what causes dandruff, for that matter. This assessment brings to light my concern regarding a scalp disorder prevalent predominantly among adult black women. This scalp condition is Follicular Degeneration Syndrome (FDS), also known as "Hot Comb Alopecia."
HOT COMB ALOPECIA
FDS, or Hot Comb Alopecia, normally occurs in the cranium or crown area of the head and can be described as a permanent deterioration of the hair sheath. The hair sheath is located beneath the scalp's surface and is what prevents hair products and other bacteria from seeping into the hair follicle and damaging the root of the hair strand. When suffering from FDS, the orifices of the hair sheath are permanently obliterated and the root is left vulnerable to hair products and other foreign debris, which will infect and destroy the hair follicle. When affected with FDS, the scalp will have a nude, shiny finish and a few strands or patches of hair emerging from beneath its surface.
For years it was believed that there was a direct correlation between FDS and the use of the hot comb. In 1968, examinations were conducted on 51 black women who had this form of alopecia. The belief was that the hot oil used for pressing was seeping into the crown area of the head, traumatizing the scalp and ultimately killing the hair bulb or root. All 51 women were pressing their hair at the time of the study, so this theory existed for two decades. In 1991, new experiments were conducted by Dr. Leon C. Sperling, one of the most interested dermatologists in the study of ethnic hair. Dr. Sperling studied 10 black women with this form of alopecia, using both vertical and transverse sections of scalp biopsy specimens.
All of the patients tested said that the condition was slowly progressive and described itching, slight tenderness and unusual sensations similar to pins and needles in the alopecic region. All had used a variety of hair care products and styling techniques over the years. While some used the hot comb before or during the early years of their condition, many of them discontinued hot comb usage years before the onset of the problem. Others had never used a hot comb. Dr. Sperling has also indicated that he has white clients with problems that are virtually identical. Now, approximately 30 years after the article was written about Hot Comb Alopecia, we are finding that most black women are using relaxers, but are still experiencing FDS. After his study, Dr. Sperling concluded that there is no exclusive link to the use of the hot comb and this form of alopecia.
There is currently no known cure for FDS. The two treatments often used are topical steroids and oral antibiotics. They are not guaranteed to make your hair grow back, but they help control or condense the affected area and retard further hair loss.
ANDROGENETIC ALOPECIA
Androgenetic is the most common type of alopecia in both men and women and accounts for 95 percent of all hair loss. Women with Androgenetic Alopecia will have scattered hair loss throughout the scalp. In men, however, the Androgenetic pattern loss usually begins with a receding hairline then expands to the crown area of the head.
Androgenetic Alopecia occurs when certain enzymes in the body convert male hormone testosterone and forms the hormone dihydrotestosterone, better known as (DHT). It is the DHT hormone that causes the hair shafts to narrow and produce progressively finer hairs. With each new growth cycle the hair strands become more transparent until eventually they stop emerging altogether. While there is no known cure for Androgenetic Alopecia, there are several medical and natural treatments that are known to retard its progression. Medical treatments for women include Diane 35, a prescribed hormonal contraceptive tablet, and Spironolactone, commonly used to treat high blood pressure. Zinc, Saw palmetto extract, Green Tea, Vitamin B6 and Emu oil are among some of the natural treatments.
ALOPECIA AREATA
Areata is another popular form of alopecia and is identified as a bald spot on the scalp about the size of a quarter. People often panic about this type of alopecia and want to know why they lost their hair in that particular spot. This spot is also referred to as a nerve spot because it is believed to be caused by nervousness and stress. When the body is under severe stress, this sometimes triggers a reaction in the immune system that causes the white blood cells to attack the hair follicles as if they are fighting off a virus. This causes the hair to fall out. The good thing, however, is that it will grow back (often within six weeks to three months). The condition is known to recur and can effect children and young adults.
Treatments for Alopecia Areata are divided into two groups: patients with less than 50 percent hair loss and those with more than 50 percent hair loss. Treatment for less than 50 percent hair loss include:
Corticosteroid, lotion that is applied directly to the bald area, or corticosteroid injections that are applied directly onto the bald area.
•Drithocreme, an anthralin ointment, is applied to the scalp.
•Retin A, a gel rubbed on the area of hair loss.
•Rogaine, effective on patch Alopecia Areata, used to fill in gaps until hair starts growing again.
•Zinc, in high doses.
•Treatment for more than 50 percent hair loss include:
•Systematic Cortisone, taken intramuscularly or internally when the condition is spreading rapidly.
•Puva, a light sensitive drug that requires undergoing short exposure to long wave ultraviolet light. It should be used three times a week for six weeks.
TRAUMATIC ALOPECIA
This form of alopecia is self-inflicted, caused by excessive use of harsh chemicals such as relaxers, permanent coloring, curly perms and bleaches. Hair breakage is also caused by the misuse of such harsh hair chemicals, but unlike breakage-which occurs over time, and is eventually replaced-in the case of Traumatic Alopecia, the hair breaks all over at one time and will not grow back.
Traumatic Alopecia is also caused by excess tension on the hairline: wearing tight ponytails, braids and weaves. When we continuously pull the hair, we rip it out of the follicle, which inflames and eventually scars the scalp. Once the scalp is scarred, hair will not grow out of that follicle again. If you see bumps or any inflammation on the scalp it is time to change the hair design.
THINNING
Hair loss in both men and women is caused by a combination of genetic and hormonal factors. Testosterone, a hormone found predominately in men, is also produced in the adrenal gland of the woman and has a significant long-term