Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair. Barry Fletcher
•Chemical-free hair can improve your health. Moving from inorganic harmful chemicals commonly absorbed through the scalp and skin to organic products - such as shea butter and herbs - can increase overall skin tone and elasticity.
•Chemical-free hair can reduce stress and in some instances, free you from endless hair appointments to enjoy your life, and especially Saturdays.
•Compared with popular chemical treatments, natural hairstyles can save you money over time.
•Natural hairstyles last longer.
•Natural is not wiry like a brillo pad; when clean, it is soft, supple and sensuous.
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE AUTHOR
Is going natural something every black woman should do?
No, hairstyles are personal and reflect each individual's sense of style, preference and mode. A woman should wear hairstyles that are most comfortable and complimentary for her. I personally recommend that women at least experiment and flirt with natural hairstyles as an option. For most of our lives, as women, we have struggled with our individual hair textures to change or tame it. Now seems to be a great time to usher in natural hair, with the variety of hair care products available containing ingredients like shea butter, herbs and essential oils, and other non-alcohol and softening agents that are gentle and nourishing to natural and textured hair.
Do you think relaxing is a bad thing?
Chemically, I believe relaxing is bad for the hair. During the 15 years I relaxed my hair, I noticed my mane had thinned quite a bit. I believe the chemicals and relaxers are very harsh and damaging to the scalp and skin. I believe anything that burns like that could not be healthy in the long run. Again, for years I suffered the chemical irritants to maintain a luxurious flowing head of hair that I believed was more acceptable, convenient and easier to maintain than natural hair.
Have relaxers ever caused you problems?
The chemical in relaxers often irritated my scalp and skin when first applied, and I noticed my hair would cycle through various dry and brittle stages during my regular six to 10 week touchup cycle. As a result, I experienced more hair breakage and shedding when using relaxers.
Does your hair shed more now that it is natural versus when it was relaxed?
My hair-shedding pattern is very different, and overall I can say I experience less hair shedding with my natural hair. I believe my relaxed hair was more fragile and prone to breakage and split ends than my natural hair. With relaxed hair, the shedding occurred when the hair was dry or continuously exposed to heat products. I noticed a little hair shedding when styling with a large-tooth comb or during routine wash and comb out. Natural hair tends to be more tolerant of heat and dry weather, however, it also requires moisturizing and gentle treatment to prevent tangles and hair breakage.
Do you find that you have more dandruff now than when you started getting relaxers?
No, it's really about the same. I notice that my scalp is a bit drier than when I had a relaxer. Washing with a moisturizing shampoo and keeping the scalp properly nourished with a cream hairdress reduces my dry scalp and dandruff.
Can you tell the difference in over-the-counter versus professional, herbal, ethnic and European?
Yes, now more than ever I notice the difference in the quality of hair care products. There are several over-the-counter products that work well for natural hair, and for me it was worth the savings and convenience. However, I have not used many professional products specifically designed for natural hair. I'd love to try them. Most of the "professional" products are designed for use with chemically treated hair or they claim to be "recommended for all types" of hair. These products usually include some amount of alcohol or other ingredients that dry or make my natural hair coarse. Herbal formula products are far gentler and smell wonderful.
Do you think you will ever go back to a relaxer?
No. I wear my hair sleek and straight sometimes, and I love the versatility of being a quick-change artist with natural hair. One day I wear it silky straight, then a couple days later it's a textured 'fro; two days later, two-stranded twists. The possibilities are endless.
Do you feel sexier with a natural style?
Yes, I find it sexy that I can change my hairstyle, particularly the texture, to fit my mood with little damage and minimum effort.
Does it minimize our versatility?
The possibilities are endless, particularly when the weather is dry. During humid or rainy seasons I go with the flow of the weather and wear my hair in textured styles instead of sporting smooth straight hairstyles.
What is the difference mentally?
Mentally, I am confident, free and in control. I feel absolutely beautiful in all my chosen hairstyles. I feel like I have mastered the hair dilemma and found a place of comfort with myself since, in essence, I can totally surrender my hair to the environmental elements and still wear hairstyles that complement any style.
Which one is the easiest to take care of?
Both require proper maintenance. Relaxed hair requires more regular visits to a professional hair salon for touchups, trimming, conditioning and styling. To maintain my natural hair I visit a professional stylist every six to eight weeks for regular trimming and conditioning. Since my natural hair is not exposed to constant heat appliances, it is stronger, healthier and easier to manage with a home care beauty regime.
Which is the most expensive?
Relaxed hair is more expensive to maintain with the regular salon visits. I averaged about $45 to $65 per regular salon visit for regular maintenance of relaxed hair every two to three weeks. This is omitting the touchup, kut, color and other extras, which can raise the price to $85 and higher, particularly if you have long hair. The average price for maintaining my natural hair per salon visit every six to eight weeks is $35 to $45, without major extras like color.
Would you ever relax your daughter's hair?
Probably not, since I know how to nourish and style natural hair. I think most mothers relax their daughter's hair for a more manageable texture for themselves and their daughters who may want to start styling and maintaining their hair. However, if taught at an early age how to manage and style their natural hair and include proper products, more mothers may start to pass on relaxers.
How does pressing work for you?
I don't use a pressing comb. I use a hot curling iron to straighten and curl the hair when it is textured. It works well.
What do white folks think about relaxed hair versus natural?
Most white folks like and understand straight hair since it looks straight and similar to their hair. They are fascinated with the versatility of our hair in general. They seem to like and prefer what is comfortable for them: viewing black people with straight hair. Natural hairstyles will certainly separate the curious and despondent from those who sincerely appreciate and respect the diversity of African hair and culture. Corporate culture certainly has been reluctant to openly accept natural hairstyles - braids, twists - as a styling option for African Americans, and we are part to blame. When I worked for a top public relations firm, many of my black co-workers were more vocal about their discomfort with my "militant hairstyle" and issued words of caution at our appearing too black in the workplace. Surprisingly, my white colleagues overall were accepting and complimentary and quite frankly fascinated by the diversity of our hair. As we continue to change and create what is acceptable for ourselves, others will eventually follow our lead and accept us, too.
Could you grow your hair out using a relaxer?
I did not kut off my relaxed hair when I decided to let my natural hair grow. I followed a careful hair care regime with my hairstylist to minimize breakage and stress to the different textures. I did not apply any type of relaxer or light texturizer chemical treatment once I decided to go natural.
What kind of problems are you having now?
I