Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair. Barry Fletcher

      Chapter 3

      Going Natural: Breaking the Lyes

      By Toya Watts, Managing Director, S.E.P.I.A., Washington, DC

      Natural style options and advantages

      Women choose to "go natural" for many reasons. Some cite religious practices, social and political movements or simply a desire to be a "down" sister. Sometimes, it's just a trendy here-today-gone-tomorrow fashion statement. Often expectant mothers heed the solid medical advice against using chemicals and allow their natural hair to flourish during pregnancy. There are as many reasons for the resurgence of natural hair as there are hairstyles.

      For many years I had envisioned the endless afternoons of carefree child's play and the beauty of my plaits unraveling in the wind. Between touchups, I'd caress the sprouting tight wave pattern of my new hair growth. You see, in longing to feel the textured tresses I was blessed with from birth, I'd go for months without a touchup and became a master with the press-n-curl "the edges" technique. I did anything to keep my natural hair thriving under six to seven inches of relaxed hair. Then in angst and frustration, with pressure from impatient hairstylists, I'd throw up my hands and surrender my new growth once more to what had now become a way of life- styles, chemicals and burning scalp - the going price for vanity. All along I desired to experience, touch, see and wear my hair in its natural state.

      I believe many women have this secret love affair with their natural hair. But through years of "burn red itch hot head afternoon" appointments, ending in straight, luxurious tresses, they have forgotten the splendor, feel and unique personalities of our natural hair. We have forgotten our hair and its sheer beauty, its versatility, the styling techniques and products, and the opportunities it allows us for nurturing and pampering ourselves. I admit it. I had just forgotten how or what to do with: "hair au naturel."

      A PARTNER IN HAIR CARE

      I wasn't giving up. My love for hair au naturel, a lean budget and growing intolerance for the six-to-eight-hour Saturday hair appointment sent me in search of hairstyling options. Luckily, I was working with a dear friend who was a very creative stylist and a proponent for ultimate versatility. She refused to over-process my hair and retouch new growth every six weeks. Instead, she opted for 12 weeks or more. Finally, I had found a stylist who was a real partner in my hair care plan. She opted for setting my shoulder-length hair on rollers and smoothing the natural hair with a curling iron. Occasionally, she would gently blow-dry the roots, producing more body and the beginnings of a full head of healthy hair.

      TRANSITION TO BRAIDS

      As the spring and summer months approached, my two to three inches of virgin hair became a bit more difficult to manage beneath four inches-plus of relaxed hair. Convenience then became the order of the hot, humid summer days. What is more convenient and versatile, with a more relaxed hair care regime, than braids? Or so I thought.

      As you transition to braids, while making your way to natural hair, you trade several long six-to-eight hour appointments for maybe one daylong appointment every six to eight weeks. And you buy mounds of extra hair for braid extensions. Neck muscles and hair follicles often are strained from the extra hair on your head. You may even lose a few nights of sleep as you adjust to your temporary tresses. Braids also require careful maintenance, conditioning and washing to reduce residue and dirt. Over time, I found that braids could strain and reduce the natural hairline.

      Choosing an experienced braid technician who will offer assistance beyond the initial hair appointment was the secret to my success. Braids are a beautiful option and a great temporary solution for growing natural hair without kutting. I wore casama braids for four months, then welcomed in the cooler months with a few extra inches of natural hair - and an appointment with a new hairstylist.

      STYLIST OPTIONS

      My stylist had moved to New York and recommended a friend to fill her slot. This new hairstylist happened to be Ethiopian and was one of the few I knew at the time who worked on such a range of hair textures. My braids were gone and I was on my way. It's important to choose a stylist who will tend to your particular needs and wants, and then work with you to maintain healthy hair.

      During the winter months when humidity was not an issue, I visited the salon maybe every three weeks. Between those visits I would wash, condition and braid or twist my hair and then air dry. Sometimes I'd tuck my hair under hats or let it peep out from beneath other headgear. As my hair grew longer, I finally started to experience what I had longed for: a healthy, luxurious, strong, shiny crown of natural-textured tresses. One day during the warmer months I missed my salon appointment and decided to administer my own home treatment. After washing and deep conditioning my hair, I stared into the mirror and noticed that my natural hair had grown so that now just two inches of relaxed hair hung limply on the ends of a vibrant, dark, kinky, coily mass. It had its own personality and was poised to come alive. I grabbed the scissors and gently clipped dozens of limp pieces from my crown and began my new life with "hair au naturel."

      Natural products are best, no alcohol please! Let me note here that when I refer to alcohol in this book, it is “ethyl” alcohol that I mean and not” certearyl” alcohol. It is Ethyl alcohol that is commonly referred to as "alcohol". Certearyl Alcohol is a waxy, crystalline solid used as an emulsifier that thickens or adds body to the pomade. This blend is derived from naturally occurring fatty acids from coconut oil and provides a creaminess to products.

      Ethyl Alcohol is a drying agent which robs the hair of its moisture and constricts it. I do apologize for any confusion I may have caused and hope this clears it up for you!

      Listed below are just a few satirical excerpts from my natural hair experience, ranging from public comments, societal attitudes and my rediscovery process.

      My Facts About Natural Hair Care:

      •You don't have to kut your hair off to go natural.

      •Water is your natural moisturizer, so revel in the misty rain or fling your neck back under the shower and let your tresses ... flow, coil, etc.

      •Color is now a great option for your hair repertoire.

      •You are in control of your natural wave pattern; it is yours and yours only, a one of a kind. It's like your fingerprint or your signature.

      •You control the twist, turn, coil and curl of your hair with just a little water, a precious styling tool.

      •Natural products are best, no alcohol (ethyl alcohol) please!

      •Convenience is yours.

      •The silk pillowcase is your friend.

      •Maximum flexibility is also yours; if you want sleek, straight, smooth, it is still an option and not far out of reach.

      •Natural hair is you on the job! In fact, you may receive more resistance from your brothers and sisters than any corporate world colleague. Don't be surprised and don't fret. Your beautiful tresses and unwavering confidence will break them in gently, and soon they will seek your advice and natural hair tips.

      •Natural hair is sexy! And you and your lover will still enjoy running your fingers through it.