The Quilter's Bible. Linda
cut on the straight grain and are usually rectangles, so draw a sketch of the pieces needed in each colour (diagram C above). Decide what size each piece will be and sketch the pieces side by side to see how many will fit across the fabric. Remember the selvedge, subtracting about 2in (5cm) from the width.
Backing – Backing fabric normally needs to be about 6in (15.2cm) wider than the quilt top. Whether it is seamed or not depends on the overall size of your quilt and the width of backing you are using. Seams can be horizontal or vertical. Fabric is normally 42in (106.7cm) but extra wide backing fabric is available, which means fewer seams. See Choosing Backing Fabric for more on backing.
Binding – Fabric needed for binding depends on the width of the binding and whether it is to be single or double, cut on the straight grain or on the bias – see Binding as an Edging for more on binding. There are tables of binding fabric requirements and an example is given here. Double-fold binding cut on the straight grain 21⁄2in (6.3cm) wide sufficient for a double (full) bed = 270in (686cm) approximately and would require 1⁄2yd (0.5m) of fabric or 2⁄3yd (0.75m) if cut on the bias.
Appliqué motifs – The easiest way to calculate how much fabric you need for appliqué work is to draw the motif within an easy geometric shape, such as a square and then measure the geometric shape – see Calculating Fabric for Appliqué for more details.
Preparing Fabrics
It pays to take a little time preparing fabrics before use in order to reduce unpredictable results later on in the quilt-making process.
Washing Fabrics
Some people always wash their fabrics before use to check for shrinkage and colourfastness, but others do not, preferring to do this after a quilt is finished to achieve that attractive, slightly crinkled antique look. Some pre-cut fabrics, such as charm squares or triangles, should not be washed before use as being small they might distort.
• If you think a fabric may shrink or bleed colour then wash separately before use in warm water and a mild detergent. If no dye runs occur rinse the fabric in cold water, dry and then iron.
• If the dye does run, put the fabric in a bowl with one part white vinegar to three parts cold water and leave for an hour or so. If the fabric continues to bleed then either discard it or use it for a project that won’t require washing.
• Once washed, straighten fabric by hand whilst still damp to re-establish the fabric grain, pulling it gently into shape from opposite corners.
Pressing Fabrics
In patchwork pressing means pressing, not sweeping over the fabric as in ironing. It is a restrained action, moving the iron in a lifting and pressing motion so seams lie in the right direction.
• Iron fabrics at the appropriate temperature to remove creases before use, so measuring and cutting will be more accurate.
• Steam from the iron can be used on stubborn creases though take care that you don’t stretch and distort bias edges.
• Spray starch is useful to stabilize fabrics and give more body, especially if stacking fabrics ready for multiple layer cutting.
• Don’t forget that many stages of piecing can be finger pressed, particularly for small units. Finger press on a hard surface using the flat area of the thumbnail so the seam lies flat. A Hera or other firm tool can also be used.
• Press work first as it comes off the sewing machine to ‘set’ the stitches and help them settle into the fabric and reduce small puckers. Then press towards the seam allowance. Press seams so they lie in opposite directions as the work will then lie flatter and be easier to quilt (see diagrams below).
Preparing Edges
Check all fabric pieces for straight edges. It may have been cut accurately but this isn’t always the case.
• If fabric isn’t straight, use your rotary cutter and ruler to trim it.
• Some loosely woven fabrics can be straightened by pulling a crosswise thread from the weave and then cutting along the gap. Tearing fabrics is rarely accurate enough for patchwork.
• Fabrics such as stripes and plaid patterns may have skewed grain lines. These can be straightened out by pulling on the two short sides of the fabric to return the warp and weft threads to right angles (see diagram in Using Fabric Grain below).
• Trim off the selvedge, that is, the tightly woven edge on a fabric. It is often more than 1⁄4in (6mm) wide so may well appear in your patchwork without you intending it to.
Using Fabric Grain
Fabrics are made with lengthwise threads called warp threads and crosswise threads called weft threads. Warp threads are on the straight grain and are the strongest with the least stretch. Weft threads are also firm but with a little more give. At a 45 degree angle to these threads is the bias grain, which has the least strength and the most stretch (see diagram).
Cutting and sewing fabric on the straight grain causes the least stretching and distortion, which means that patches and units will align more accurately. When edges are on the bias they are likely to distort and stretch with handling and pressing, so when in doubt have the straight grain on the edges.
A fabric’s tendency to stretch can be a positive benefit in some cases, for example, when cutting strips for bias-strip appliqué and bias binding, when you want the fabric to ease around curves easily. Bias-cut edges can also be of benefit for needle-turn appliqué, where edges need to be turned under smoothly. Bias-cut edges are also useful for slashing and chenilling to encourage fabric to fray and ‘bloom’.
Using the Right Needle
Before sewing you need to check you are using the right needle for your fabric. If you use too fine a needle in thicker fabrics it will break: use too thick a needle in a fine fabric and it will punch holes that will weaken the fabric. Generally, use larger needles for thicker threads and finer needles for thinner threads.
Needles are made of high carbon steel wire and, to resist corrosion, are plated with nickel, gold, platinum or titanium alloys. Needle sizes are in metric (European) and universal (American). For example, for a needle size 80/12, 80 is the metric size and 12 is the universal size (see the needles table in the Useful Information section). The higher the number, the thicker and longer the needle.
Needles are given various names that reflect their function or characteristics. Embroidery, or Crewel needles, are sharp, pointed needles with a longer eye than Sharps, making threading thicker threads easier. Betweens, or Quilting needles, are shorter than Sharps or Embroidery, with a small round eye and are good for detailed work on slightly heavier fabrics. Tapestry needles have a blunted tip and a large eye, making them suitable for wool thread and canvas stitching. Chenille are sharp-pointed with