The Quilter's Bible. Linda
For machine sewing, Universals are available in a wide range of sizes and are suited to woven or knitted fabrics. Topstitch or Microtex needles are useful for general sewing. Metallic are designed for use with metallic threads and have a large eye, sharp point and fine shaft. Twin/Triple are double- or triple-pointed needles used in a sewing machine to create double or triple rows of stitching for decorative effect. Wing needles have a flared shaft that creates a decorative hole in fabric and so are useful for decorative machine stitching.
Choosing Needles
When choosing needles the following guides may help.
Hand sewing and piecing – Sharps 60/8–65/9.
Hand quilting – Betweens 65/9, 70/10 and 80/12.
Hand appliqué – Sharps or Betweens 60/8–65/9.
Decorative hand stitches – various, depending on thread.
Machine piecing – Universal 80/12 or 70/12 for straight stitching.
Machine quilting – Universal 75/11–90/14.
Machine appliqué – Universal 70/10 or Embroidery 75/11 for satin stitch.
Decorative machine sewing – Embroidery 75/11 for 40 weight threads and 80/12 for 30 weight threads.
Italian quilting – Large-eyed Tapestry needle for threading the wool cord through channels.
Sewing Machine Basics
Advice on using a sewing machine for patchwork, quilting and appliqué is given throughout the book, especially in Machine Piecing and Machine Quilting.
Stitch length – This is the length in millimetres of each stitch that makes up the pattern. For machine quilting most people use a stitch length of about 10–12 stitches per inch (2.5cm) but this may be varied depending on fabric and threads being used. The thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch required.
Machine tension – This is the tightness the stitches are formed under and can affect how the work looks from the front and back. The upper and lower tensions should balance, so thread used in the bobbin should not show on the top of the work, and vice versa. The bottom bobbin thread tension is controlled by a screw on the bobbin case, which can be loosened or tightened. The top tension is controlled on most machines by a dial, the position of which will vary. If the bobbin thread is showing through on the top of the work, the tension is too tight, so loosen it by selecting a lower number. If the top thread is showing through on the back of the work and even creating loops, the tension is too loose, so tighten it by selecting a higher number.
Machine tools – There are some accessories that make sewing easier, including a walking foot or even-feed foot for machine-guided quilting, a 1⁄4in (6mm) foot for 1⁄4in (6mm) line spacing, a darning foot for free-motion quilting, a dual-feed foot to help ensure even stitching and a quilting guide to stitch parallel rows of stitching. See Machine Quilting Tools for more information.
Choosing a Sewing Machine
Buying a sewing machine or upgrading to a new one can be a little daunting as there are so many makes and models, all at different prices. Decide first what you intend to use the machine for and what you might need it for in the future.
A standard sewing machine is sufficient for most patchwork, appliqué and quilting tasks and there are many makes and models available.
Will it be used mainly for patchwork and quilting or also for dressmaking and decorative sewing?
Will you be doing a lot of quilting? If so, useful features include a large throat area to manoeuvre a bulky quilt through, a walking foot or fabric-feed mechanism and feed dogs that can be lowered for free-motion quilting.
If you are interested in creative machine sewing try out decorative stitches including wing needle stitches.
Take the time to ‘test drive’ several makes and models before you buy. Watch demonstrations at quilt shows and visit dealers with some fabrics to try.
Once you have your machine, take the time to study the manual and practise using the machine.
Marking Fabrics
Designs can be transferred or marked on fabric ready for cutting out or quilting in various ways but there are things to consider. Should the marks be permanent or temporary? Can the marks be ironed, or does this set them? How do markers react with different fabrics? To be safe, always test a marking method on scrap fabric.
Select a marker to suit the fabric and its colour. Here a water-soluble pen has been used on the pale fabric, with a white watercolour pencil on the darker fabric. Both markers are easily washed out. A chalk marker would also have been suitable for the darker fabric.
Pencils – Normal graphite pencils and water-soluble coloured pencils can be used for marking. Marks should wash out with laundering. Quilter’s or dressmaker’s pencils are available in various colours. They have a wax content so may not be as easy to remove but should wash out.
Removable marking pens – These include water-soluble, iron-off and air-fading. The sort you choose depends on your project and preference. Some water-soluble markers can be set by the heat of an iron, so care needs to be taken to avoid this. Water-soluble markers can require more than a dab of moisture to remove them. Air-erasable markers may not stay in place long enough to complete a larger project but would work well with quicker projects. As the long-term effects of markers on fabric are not yet known it might be wise to rinse finished projects.
Chalk – This is easy to remove with a soft toothbrush, though take care with pink and blue coloured chalk on very light fabrics. Chalk is available in various colours and forms, including chalk pencils, blocks and as powder distributed through a wheel (Chaco liner). Chalk lines may need to be re-marked on large projects or those that have been handled a lot.
Hera – This plastic or bone tool is great for scoring temporary lines on fabric.
Masking tape – Low-tack masking tape is ideal for marking straight lines for quilting. Stick the tape in position and quilt along the edge of the tape. Remove the tape promptly to avoid stickiness on the fabric.
Compass – This is useful to mark circles. Circles can also be marked using templates cut from card or plastic or by drawing around plates, cups and even the plastic bases from pizzas. Curves can also be marked using a flexicurve.
Tracing – If tracing a design for quilting you will need to do this before layering the quilt into a sandwich in order to be able to see through the fabric. A light box is useful. (see Tracing.)
Dressmaker’s carbon paper – This can be used for tracing or with templates and stencils. Most marks can be removed with washing. Various colours are available to suit different-coloured fabrics. Place the coloured side face down on top of the right side of the fabric and use a hard pencil to draw the design, checking to see it is transferring.