Handicraft Simplified Procedure and Projects in Leather, Celluloid, Metal, Wood, Batik, Rope, Cordage, Yarn, Horsehair, Pottery, Weaving, Stone, Primitive Indian Craft. Lester Griswold
and turn inside edge of purse section over lining.
Cement the lining to the outside, smoothing from the folds outward as directed on page 65. If pockets are desired these should be stitched in place with the upper edge skived and turned under (cemented down). These should not extend to the edge of the lining unless skived very thin.
d.Insert the gussets and cement lightly along the edges as directed.
e.Punch the holes, using spacing gauge. Start about 1/8″ from the top of one gusset and punch around the gusset, flap and second gusset. Care must be taken to hold the punch horizontally when punching the bottom curve of the gussets so that the holes will not slope outward. Also be sure to estimate distance of holes near the tops of the gussets and space so that no hole cuts through the top fold of either gusset.
f.Start lacing about three holes from the top of gussets and lace both gussets in place. End the lacing at the front edge as shown under lacing, page 68. Lace the flap last, using a single long thong (six times edge length). Splice into gusset lacing as directed on page 67.
A
B
9.Envelope Bag—Two Piece.
This purse illustrated in Cut A is constructed with square corners and a straight bottom gusset which is inserted in the same manner as the brief case gusset described on page 73. The gusset is cut in one piece with a flare at the top of the sides, the outside piece 3/8″ longer to allow for turning back over the edge of the lining as detailed under assembly procedure, page 66. The front is cut any desired rectangular shape and the flap may be rounded as illustrated or cut with square corners to come to the bottom of the front. The ornamentation is effected by the tooled fan-shaped piece which extends to the bottom edge of the back and forms a handle. This is edge laced and attached to the flap, which may be of contrasting non-tooling leather, with the three hole fastening through the corners.
Assembly of Two Piece Envelope Bag.
a.Apply decoration to the flap piece, permit this to dry and lace the edges using whip or lay over stitch.
b.Stitch the pocket in the front lining and cement it to front. Attach the ornamental piece to the back and flap, using the three hole fastening, see page 81 for detail. Cement the lining to this part, allowing for the fold in the flap. Another pocket may be stitched to back if desired.
c.Cement the gusset to the back edge, folding the corners as directed, Punch the holes and lace. Refer to corner detail under lacing, page 71. Continue lacing around the flap.
d.Lace the front to the gusset in the same manner.
e.A mirror may be cemented to the flap.
No. 1
10.Vanity Purses.
A vertical type vanity purse is illustrated in No. 1.
a.Decorate both sides of the purse with the same or different designs.
b.Purse No. 1 is easily assembled since the pockets are laced in flat. The handle is attached with a metal fastening before the lining is cemented in place. Note that the edges of the pockets and flap have been turned under. This step is not necessary if calfskin is used. This purse is held together with a tab which is attached with snap fasteners at both ends. One is tightly riveted so that it cannot be detached.
The mirror may be cemented or inserted in the pocket.
2
2
No. 2 shows a creased design which has been colored. This purse is cut from natural steerhide, using a thin section of the skin for the lining.
This is made from natural calfskin with natural steer lining. Steer would be satisfactory for both outside and lining or suede lining may be used with pockets of outside material.
c.Purse No. 2 has a mirror cemented in position underneath an opening cut in the lining of the flap. The mirror is first cemented to a piece of thin lining and this is cemented evenly across the flap so that the mirror is held in place. A very little glue is used at the edger to attach them to the mirror. The gusset detail for this type of purse is described on page 76. Wide lacing is used for assembly which is simplified by the rounded corners. Invisible fasteners are attached to the lining.
1
2
11.Strap Hand Bags.
Two styles of the three cornered gusset type bags are shown in the illustration. No. 1 is two piece with separate gussets, made of steer hide with a tooled decoration. No. 2 is a small hand purse cut in one piece with a vertical handle attached with the three hole fastening, see page 37. Suede lining was used in both bags.
The handle of No. 1 is inserted in slits cut in the outside gussets about two inches from the top, and cemented firmly in position between the outside and the lining. The tops of the gussets are finished as shown on page 66 and the lacing detail is sketched on page 68.
12.Metal Top Bags.
The essential detail in the successful construction of metal top bags is the proper cut of the pattern and the careful finish of the gusset tops. A material must be selected which will permit the edges to be skived very thin and it also must be soft enough to fold into position when the bag is closed. Steerhide is recommended.
a.Dampen the entire outside piece and tool one or both sides.
b.Prepare the gussets and cement in position as instructed on page 66.
c.Punch around the gussets, using spacing gauge. Special attention must be given to the punching around the curve of the gussets to avoid any slope toward the outside which will result if the punch is not held horizontally.
d.Lace the gussets in position with lay over stitch. The last hole at the top should be whip laced, leaving 2″ of thong for ending.
13.Book Ends. (Steerhide as illustrated