Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
was at first a paved road soon deteriorates to gravel as it threads its way through pastures with a wonderful view to the mountains further south. After some 15min a narrow trail turns sharp left off the road and brings you to the wooded slopes concealing the Hölltobel.
Accompanied by the sound of rushing water, as the Dietersbach stream squeezes its way through a narrow corset of rock, you climb steeply alongside the gorge. At several places platforms allow a bird’s-eye view over the narrow chasm, and a little higher, you can clamber over a rock to view an impressive waterfall. After ½hr climbing the track reaches the asphalt road again and it is only a few minutes’ walk to Gerstruben.
Historic farmhouse at Gerstruben
This walk can be extended by continuing over the Hahnenkopf to the Oytal (see Walk 8). A shorter alternative would be to continue along the Dietersbachtal (Gerstrubental) to Gerstrubner Alpe (20min) or further to Dietersbach Alpe (1hr).
In Gerstruben, walk towards the church, then turn right along a signposted trail to Christlessee. After crossing pastures the trail starts to descend more steeply, and the Dietersbach stream is crossed on a small wooden bridge. The steep descent to the Dietersbach stream is aided by wire ropes. Extra care is required in wet conditions.
The trail now enters open forest on its way down to the valley. At the bottom go right, pass the turn-offs to Christlessee (a lake) and the Hölltobel, to reach the Zwingbrücke over the Trettach. Instead of returning the same way over the bridge, follow the trail along the right bank of the river. Oberstdorf is reached after 1hr walk with Café Jägerstand offering refreshments on the way.
WALK 8
From the Gerstrubental to the Oytal
| Start | Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 10.3km (6½ miles) from Gerstruben or 16km (10 miles) from Oberstdorf |
| Total ascent | 581m (1906ft) |
| Total descent | 909m (2982ft) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 6hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Gasthof Gerstruben, Oytal Haus, Café Jägerstand |
| Transport | Bergsteiger bus from Oberstdorf to bus stop Golfplatz, Abzweigung (turn-off) Gerstruben |
| Parking | Car park (parking fee) next to Nebelhornbahn |
This varied route links the valleys of the Gerstrubental and Oytal in a circular walk from Oberstdorf. The first section is a picturesque stroll past a beautiful pond in an area of upland moor, followed by a steep climb up a wild and romantic gorge. After leaving the tiny village of Gerstruben it is another steep climb up to the Hahnenkopf for some fine views, then a long, steep descent begins to the Oytal. From there it is an easy, mostly level walk back to Oberstdorf.
The first section of the walk up to Gerstruben is the same as described in Walk 7. The route can be shortened by taking the Bergsteiger bus to the stop Golfplatz, near the turn-off to Gerstruben. In Gerstruben, walk to the rear of the Gasthof to find a track which climbs steeply up a grassy slope before entering woods. After about 1hr of strenuous climbing you reach the ridge between the Riffenkopf (1749m) and Hahnenkopf (1735m). Continue right in the direction of the Hahnenkopf. After a short distance the trail curves at first right and then loops below and past the summit to a signposted fork. From here a trail swings left (not signposted), back along a ridge, and over a patch of rock to the summit cross.
As well as the view over Oberstdorf and the tiny Christlessee, the panorama takes in the Nebelhorn massif, together with the Laufbachereckweg (see Walk 5), the peaks of the Kleinwalsertal and the Illertal.
Untere Lugen Alpe
Return to the fork and continue in the signposted direction ‘Obere Lugen Alpe’ and ‘Oytal Haus’. The obvious trail descends over grass slopes in a northeasterly direction towards Obere Lugen Alpe. From the alm hut continue downhill along a sometimes unclear trail to the hut at Untere Lugen Alpe. Depending on where the cows are, either the Obere or Untere Lugen Alpe huts offer light refreshments in summer.
After passing the alm the trail descends more steeply and enters the woods. Eventually you will come to a sign to Oytal Haus on your right. To the left of this sign an unmarked steep, and often slippery, track descends directly to Oytal Haus. Otherwise, continue on what is here a broad track down to the valley and go left along the Oybach stream to Oytal Haus. Here there is the option of hiring a Bergroller (scooter) for the stretch on the road back to town.
Follow the small asphalt road west from Oytal Haus in the direction of Oberstdorf. After about 25min level walking you will reach a signposted track (Dr. Hohenadelweg) on the left. This pleasant trail will take you along the Oybach stream, past Café Jägerstand on the banks of the Trettach, and back to Oberstdorf (1hr).
VALLEY WALKS FROM OBERTSDORF
Map: Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3
Breitachklamm (1½hr) The Breitachklamm (open 0900–1700) is 1.5km long and is one of the most picturesque gorges of its size in Central Europe. Over a period of some 10,000 years the Breitach stream has cut its way through the limestone to a depth of 90m, and at some points the sheer rock walls are not much more than 2m apart. The Klamm is by no means an ‘undiscovered’ attraction and is best avoided on weekends, and even during the week it is unlikely that you will have it all to yourself. There is an entrance charge.
The Klamm is situated to the southwest of Oberstdorf. From the ticket office near Gasthaus Breitachklamm, follow a well-kept path into the gorge. As short as this walk is, it provides an impressive example of how water has sculpted, and continues to sculpt, many of the more spectacular features in the Limestone Alps. At the other end go left and continue straight ahead through the second ticket office entrance – show your ticket. From here climb steps that lead up to a footbridge which crosses the gorge at a height of 80m. On the other side the track zigzags uphill for a while and then it is an easy stroll through woods and fields past Alpe Dornach (refreshments). A short distance further along the paved road below Dornach, come to a group of signs. Go right here and down what is, towards the end, a very steep track back to the car park.
To the Freibergsee (2¼hr) From the centre of Oberstdorf follow the Weststrasse to the start at the Schlechtenbrücke over the Stillach. Directly after the bridge, cross the road to Birgsau and follow a small asphalt road uphill to the left in the direction of Hotel Waldesrüh. From the hotel continue climbing at a moderate gradient through woods in the signposted direction of Freibergsee. After passing a turn-off to the Söllereck cable railway the next destination, Restaurant Bergkristall, is 30min away. From here an attractive trail runs downhill through woods on a broad gravel path (Probstweg). Pass the Naturfreundehaus (refreshments), and after roughly 20min pleasant walking you will be suddenly confronted with a view of the wooded shores of the Freibergsee. Follow the path left to reach Strandcafé Freibergsee (refreshments, boat hire, swimming), which is beautifully located directly on the lake shore.
For the return route to Oberstdorf climb briefly up from the lake, then descend through woods towards the Unterer Renksteg. On reaching the Stillach cross the covered wooden bridge, then follow a level gravel path on the river’s right bank back to the Schlechtenbrücke and Oberstdorf – 40min from the covered bridge.
KLEINWALSERTAL: AROUND RIEZLERN AND MITTELBERG (WALKS 9–12)
Tourist office: Kleinwalsertal Tourismus (main office), Walserhaus, Walserstrasse 264, A-6992 Hirschegg. Tel +43 (0)5517 5114–0, www.kleinwalsertal.com, [email protected]
Riezlern is the largest settlement in the valley and is densely