Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
– Kleinwalsertal
Although not alpine in character, the ridge walk between Ochsenkopf and Riedberger Horn offers plenty of fine views to the higher mountains further south, and provides a good impression of the alm pastureland that is so typical of the Allgäu’s grass-covered lower peaks. It is an easy walk with no major climbs and can be walked from spring to late autumn.
The Bolsterlanger Hörnerbahn (gondola-lift; www.hoernerbahn.de) takes you in less than 10min to an altitude of 1500m. At the top there is a magnificent view over the Iller Valley, and both the Großer Ochsenkopf and Riedberger Horn, the goals of this walk, are clearly visible to the west.
From the upper station of the two-stage gondola-lift an easy path leads to Schwaben Haus. Most walkers who want to climb the Riedberger Horn continue straight ahead from the hut. This is the easiest but least interesting route. It is much more interesting to turn right just before the hut and to climb steeply uphill towards the Großer Ochsenkopf. After gaining about 100m in altitude the path from the Weiherkopf is joined and followed left along the ridge (westwards) to the summit of the Ochsenkopf (1662m). Marked by a wooden cross, and covered by bilberry (blueberry) bushes, there are nevertheless enough grassy patches where you can recline and admire the views. To the north the Nagelfluhkette ridge (see Walk 1) is clearly visible.
Großer Ochsenkopf summit
From the Großer Ochsenkopf descend through the bilberry bushes and go past a small upland moor. The track always keeps to the ridge, passing en route the fork to Printschen Hut (private). In summer alpenrose provide a splash of red colour to the predominating browns and greens of the landscape. Shortly before you reach the Riedberger Horn there is a steep rocky section that you have to scramble up, but it is not too difficult. After 1hr walking (from Ochsenkopf) a final climb leads up a grass slope to the summit of the Riedberger Horn (1787m).
On fine weekends the summit is usually crowded with walkers, most of whom have taken the shorter route up from Grasgehren Hut (car park) in the Schönberger Achtal. The views are good in all directions: apart from the main chain of the Allgäu Alps to the southwest, you can also make out the distinctive rock wall of the Gottersackerwände (south, see Walk 11) and to the west the snow-tipped peaks of the Swiss Alps.
The descent presents no problems. At first you walk in the direction of Grasgehren Hut. At the saddle turn left, and then walk for a while in the direction of Schwaben Haus. Eventually a signpost points you to the right towards Bolgen Alpe. After passing Obere Bolgen Alpe (Alp(e) = alm in the Allgäu) an asphalted road is joined. From here it is not far to Bolgen Alpe (refreshments).
From the alm hut keep to the road until Zunkleiten Alpe. Leave the road here on a path to the left. Ignore a left-hand turn-off further along the route to the gondola’s Mittelstation and continue to the Sonderdorfer Kreuz (cross). The trail now follows the Bergblick-Hohenweg (panorama trail) back to the valley station of the Hörnerbahn.
WALK 3
A ridge walk between Sonnenkopf and Falken Alpe
| Start | Schöllang, north of Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 10.7km (6½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 1188m (3898ft) |
| Total descent | 1188m (3898ft) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 5–6hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Gais Alpe |
| Transport | Bus 45 from Oberstdorf (direction Sonthofen) |
| Parking | Car park on the bypass to Altstädten |
As this walk involves a big ascent a good standard of fitness is required, but otherwise there are no difficulties worth mentioning. Schöllang is a pleasant village, where just about every house seems to have its balcony adorned with bright red or pink geraniums. A Pension or Gasthaus here might be an interesting alternative to Oberstdorf. The tourist office is located at Schelchwangweg 1, tel (08322) 7000.
Instead of driving into Schöllang (where parking is very limited), follow the bypass in the direction of Altstädten and you will come to a parking bay at the side of the road. From the bus stop in town, near the church, go back (south) along Rubihornstr. and turn left into Sonnenkopfweg. At a fork go right under the bypass road, then left to the start. The path to the Eybachtobelweg and Sonnenkopf is clearly signposted, so it is just a matter of following the Eybach stream uphill until you come to a bridge.
The easiest way to Entschen Alpe is to follow the road left over the bridge, but the more attractive route is to follow the Tobelweg (gorge walk) along the stream. If the Tobelweg is chosen you also go left over the bridge, but after a few metres turn right, off the paved road. Now follow the signpost ‘Eybachtobelweg – Sonnenköpfe’. The path zigzags its way up through the woods and eventually links up with the alm access road, which is followed to the right. (After heavy rain it is advisable to choose the easier alternative, as the steep and narrow Tobelweg can get very slippery, and the track may be washed away in places.)
Before reaching Entschen Alpe hut, however, our path swings left (signposted), away from the road, and winds its way up through fields and then into the woods. At one point it meets a dirt road – a sign ‘Fußweg’ points back downhill here. Walk uphill a few metres more and come to a track that curves left uphill and away from the dirt road. It is signposted ‘Fußweg’ but is easy to miss. After passing a small clearing with views to the north it is not far to the summit cross of the Sonnenkopf (1712m), from where there are magnificent views down into the Retterschwang Valley and across to the Daumen massif.
Wildflowers adorn the Sonnenkopf ridge
Continuing along the ridge, you descend into a trough and then climb very steeply up to the summit of the Heidelbeerkopf (1767m). The same sweaty procedure has to be repeated en route to the Schnippenkopf (1833m), but the dramatic alpine scenery to the left of the track is compensation enough. This peak offers the best views on the entire walk, and the outlook is only hindered by the imposing bulk of the Entschenkopf to the south. As the summit plateau is broad and grassy it would make a good picnic spot.
Compared to the preceding climb, the descent to Falken Alpe is reasonably gradual at first, although the last descent to the hut is steep. A little further down, a trail branches left off the main track to the Entschenkopf, but this route continues downhill through woods to Rubi Hut. Here it goes right (not left to Richterberg Alpe) and down to Gais Alpe. The restaurant here is quite popular, as it also lies on the route to the Nebelhorn and Rubihorn.
To get back to Schöllang via Im Stitzel go down from the restaurant terrace and then around the building. Now follow a track to the right and uphill along a stream (signposted Schöllang – Stitzel). Do not follow the gravel road curving down from Gais Alpe. You can also arrange a taxi from the restaurant.
An alternative if you do not need to get back to Schöllang is to follow the Gaisalptobelweg to Reichenbach. Go down the road from the restaurant, then right at a junction to reach the signposted track that leaves the road on your right. In Reichenbach take the bus back to Oberstdorf.
WALK 4
The Rubihorn
| Start | Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 13.4km |