Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne

      Mountain huts often have stunning locations (Rotwand Haus, Walk 44)

      Mountain huts belonging to the German (DAV) or Austrian (OeAV) Alpine Clubs are open to everybody, but those who are members of either organisation are entitled to discounts of up to 50 per cent at both DAV and OeAV huts. Accommodation is also available in huts run by other organisations such as the Naturfreunde (Naturefriends) or in some privately run alm huts. These huts have similar requirements to those mentioned below, but please check with the relevant hut beforehand.

      Near the start or towards the end of the walking season (June to late October) it is advisable to ring the huts in advance to see if they are open (see Appendix C).

      Most Alpine Club (AV) huts provide simple meals and snacks which makes it unnecessary to carry large amounts of food. However, if you are a member it is a good idea to carry teabags or instant coffee and so on as you are entitled to Teewasser (tea-water). This is usually about a litre of hot water and the price is much more modest than that for a Haferl (mug) of tea with which non-members have to content themselves. Those with a thermos can always refill it at the hut. Another ‘privilege’ for members is the Bergsteigeressen (mountaineer’s food), which might include meat, but it is always a simple and normally warm dish. It is somewhat cheaper than the others on the menu, but is not always the best buy. Beer and other alcoholic drinks are also available.

      At AV huts you can sleep in either a Matrazenlager or smaller bunkroom. The Matrazenlager is the cheapest and generally consists of a large room with mattresses placed side by side. A pillow and blanket is provided. To get a smaller bunkroom you need to ask for Betten (beds). Pillow, blankets and perhaps a warm eiderdown are provided. As these rooms usually accommodate a maximum of four people they are the better option for a good night’s sleep. Some huts even offer double rooms, the ultimate in luxury! At all AV huts, beds or mattresses may only be used with a Hüttenschlafsack (cloth sleeping bag or bag liner with a pillow envelope) which can be bought at most huts. Please note: if you do not specify Betten or Zimmerlager you will invariably end up in the Matrazenlager.

      Most huts have washing facilities, even if that amounts to no more than a basin with cold running water – remember to bring your own towel. Some huts provide hot showers, but you will have to pay extra.

      Other requirements: bring sufficient cash (credit/debit cards are seldom accepted) and Hüttenschuhe (slippers with a proper sole) as boots are never permitted in the sleeping areas. A head-lamp and ear-plugs can also be useful. And do not forget to sign the hut book with your name, address and telephone/mobile number. Your tour goal should also be mentioned.

      Alpine Club huts are divided into three categories: Cat I – usually at least an hour’s walk away from any mechanised transport (chairlifts and so on). Cat II – can be reached by mechanical means and generally offer better facilities. The huts are usually open all year and not just in summer (as is the case with many Category I huts). Cat III – accessible by car or cable railway, catering mainly for day visitors. Facilities for an overnight stay are usually limited. Bergsteigeressen and Teewasser are not available.

      Appendix C lists those huts mentioned in the route descriptions. On the Internet a complete database of AV huts (in German) is available at www.dav-huettensuche.de or www.alpenverein.at/huetten (English).

      There is a full listing of NaturFreunde (Naturefriends) huts at the German-language site www.naturfreunde.de. For more information visit the UK website www.thefriendsofnature.org.uk.

      The Austrian Alpine Club is affiliated with the German Alpine Club, and its members are entitled to all the privileges mentioned above. Postal address: Unit 43, Glenmore Business Park, Holton Heath, Blackhill Rd, Poole, Dorset BH16 6NL; tel (01929) 556 870, [email protected], www.aacuk.org.uk.

      TRAVELLING WITH A DOG

      Coming from the UK you will need to make sure your dog is inoculated against rabies, which is prevalent in many parts of Europe including the Bavarian Alps. Information on other necessary inoculations (and formalities) can be obtained from your veterinarian.

      Depending on the discretion of the hut warden or the rules of the alpine section to which the hut belongs, dogs are not usually welcome in mountain huts belonging to the Alpine Clubs. Your best chance will be in those with rooms for two or a Winterlager (winter quarters separate from main hut), but check beforehand. If you come when demand is relatively low (spring or autumn) your chances will increase. Those huts only offering Matrazenlager (large dormitories) do not permit dogs.

      You will usually be able to find a place to stay in the valleys, and most establishments charge a small extra daily fee.

      With a bit of planning, nothing stands in the way of taking your dog on a walking holiday

      In Naturschutzgebiete (nature reserves) or the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden, dogs should be kept on a leash. The same applies to areas where sheep or cows are grazed. Avoid cows with calves; they will react aggressively if they feel their young is threatened. If attacked (rare), drop the leash!

      Note that public transport in Austria requires the dog wear a muzzle, as do some large gondola lifts in Germany.

Climate

      The climate in the Bavarian Alps is characterised by relatively cool summers (although temperatures can go past 30˚C) with high rainfall and mild winters which usually bring plenty of snow. This is largely due to the influence of the prevailing westerly winds which deposit moist oceanic air masses in the form of clouds on the northern fringes of the Alps. Precipitation in the valleys can be as high as 1500mm per annum and in the alpine regions as high as 2500mm. In other words, waterproof gear is essential.

      A guarantee for fine weather, however, is the Föhn (known as Chinook in the American Rockies). This dry, warm wind brings crystal-clear air and blue skies to the mountains when the lowlands to the north are hidden below a thick blanket of cloud. It makes its presence felt especially in autumn, one of the best times to go walking.

      Note When walking in the Alps remember that with every 100m of altitude the temperature drops by up to 1°C.