Walking in the Bavarian Alps. Grant Bourne
alpine foothills between Lake Constance (Bodensee) and the River Lech. Included within the Alpine Club’s definition of the group is the area known as the Allgäuer Voralpen to which such peaks as the Fellhorn (2037m) and Hoher Ifen (2230m) as well as the Gottesacker Plateau (2017m) belong. Among the highest peaks in the Allgäu Alps in German territory are the Mädelegabel (2645m), Hochvogel (2593m) and Nebelhorn (2224m). The highest peak is Großer Krottenkopf (2657m) on the Austrian side of the border. Also covered here is the Kleinwalsertal, which lies in Austria but is only accessible by road from the German state of Bavaria.
Although it is not the driest region in the Alps (precipitation averages between 1000mm per year in the valleys, and 2000mm per year in the alpine regions), the Allgäu is blessed with a relatively mild climate which, combined with its great diversity of soil types, has contributed to a richly varied flora. There is no other region in the Alps where so many different species of wildflower grow so close together. In spring soldanellas and crocus push their way up through the retreating snow, while dark blue gentians dot the drier slopes. Early summer is the time for red alpenrose, yellow gentian, monk’s hood and alpine aquilegia to decorate the mountainsides. Those who are lucky might even find the rare lady’s slipper orchid or the famed edelweiss. In autumn carline thistles and purple autumn crocus (meadow saffron) offer some compensation for the shorter days and cooler temperatures.
The Kleinwalsertal
This valley was settled by farmers from the Valais, a canton in Switzerland, in the 13th century. Although it has belonged to Austria since 1453 it is only easily accessible from Germany. This caused problems for farmers when it came to selling their produce within Austria as they had to cross high alpine passes to get to markets in the south. In winter they were completely isolated from the motherland. This difficult and economically disastrous state of affairs came to an end in 1891 when Austria and Germany signed a treaty which exempted the ‘Walser’ from the need to pay duty on goods brought to and from Germany.
The valley is entered at Walserschanz (no customs post), only a few kilometres southwest of Oberstdorf. For mountain walkers the Kleinwalsertal provides plenty of carefully waymarked trails and magnificent scenery. A bus (Walserbus) runs daily (May–October, every 30min) from Oberstdorf railway station to Baad at the end of the valley.
OBERSTDORF (WALKS 1–8)
Tourist office: Tourist-Information in Oberstdorf Haus, Prinzregenten-Platz 1, D-87561 Oberstdorf. Tel (08322) 700–0, www.oberstdorf.de, [email protected]. Tourist-Information, Bahnhofplatz (opposite railway station), tel (08322) 700 417 (accommodation service).
Oberstdorf can be reached by train from Munich and is popular as a tourist resort in both summer and winter. Although not unattractive, this modern-looking town lacks the rural charm of some of the smaller settlements in this region (in 1865 a devastating fire destroyed most of the older buildings). It is well served with a good range of accommodation (campsite, youth hostel and hotels in all price categories) and offers all the usual tourist facilities.
Oberstdorf provides a good range of restaurants and accommodation for its guests
WALK 1
The Nagelfluhkette: a ridge walk between the Mittagberg and Stuiben
| Start | Immenstadt, north of Oberstdorf |
| Distance | 13.5km (8 miles) |
| Total ascent | 514m (1686ft) |
| Total descent | 1234m (4048ft) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 5hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte No 3: Allgäuer Alpen – Kleinwalsertal |
| Refreshments | Bergstation Mittagbahn, Alpe Gund |
| Transport | Regular trains from Oberstdorf |
| Parking | Car park next to Mittagbahn chairlift |
| Note | Although this route offers no extreme difficulties, some exposed sections require care. It is best undertaken in dry and stable weather conditions. |
The Nagelfluh Chain extends for some 25km from Mittagberg, near Immenstadt, to the Hohe Häderich in Austria. It takes its name from the characteristic ‘nagelfluh’ rock, a type of conglomerate composed of smaller stones cemented together millions of years ago during the Pleistocene. In many ways this walk introduces much that is typical of walks in the region: unobstructed views of the main Allgäu chain and the lowlands to the north; in spring and summer a profusion of wildflowers; tracks flanked by steep grassy slopes on the one side and sheer cliffs on the other; the tinkling of cowbells from lonely alpine pastures; and alm huts offering milk and cheese produced on the spot.
The two-stage Mittagbahn chairlift brings walkers comfortably to the top of the Mittagberg, thus saving a roughly 2hr ascent. From the Bergstation (upper terminus) an easy trail leads in a southwesterly direction to a cross and memorial to one of the last brown bears that was shot here in 1746. A short detour to the modest peak of the Bärenkopf (1476m) can be undertaken from this spot. Otherwise, the onward route is clearly visible: at first continue comfortably a short distance along grassy slopes then, on reaching a lightly wooded, narrow section of the ridge the trail begins its steep – and, in summer, very sweaty – ascent to the Steineberg.
Shortly before the last section of the climb to the Steineberg summit cross the trail swings sharp left (south), before climbing steeply to the cliffs below the summit. This brings you to the ladder, which climbs directly to the summit cross. To avoid the ladder follow a narrow trail, which continues from the ladder and below the cliffs, before curving back to the summit along a harmless grass slope.
From here it is fairly easy going along the ridge towards the Stuiben, which is already visible in the distance. Wire ropes aid walkers on a few more exposed sections of track and most usefully along one easy traverse down a bare rock face. In early summer, the grass slopes along the trail are dotted with dark blue gentians, wild orchids and other wildflowers.
Exposed section of track en route to Stuiben
Not long after passing the intersection with the trail leading directly down to Alpe Gund (or Gund Alpe), the track begins its steep climb up the Stuiben. Just before the summit, wire ropes aid your ascent along a steeply falling section of rock. Then it is an easy stroll to the summit cross and a splendid panoramic view.
Descend from the summit along a clear trail, which takes you in around 20min to Alpe Gund (accommodation and simple refreshments in summer). Continue from the east side of the alm hut in a (signposted) northeasterly direction – this route does not follow the gravel road down to Immenstadt via Mittelberg Alpe on the other side of the hut. Pass a trail up to the Steineberg and follow the signposted track to Immenstadt. It winds attractively through fields and lightly wooded slopes towards Hintere Krumbach Alpe. After reaching the broad meadows below the alm hut the trail crosses a simple log bridge over a stream, climbs briefly left, then descends through the woods. It takes you in roughly 40min to a gravel road where you turn right to Immenstadt (signposted).
Now follow the road past Jagdhaus Ornach (hunting lodge) to a small wooden chapel and picnic tables. A bit further on you have the choice of continuing along the road, or you can follow the more interesting Steigbachtobelweg, which runs just below the road through a lovely little gorge. Near the outskirts of Immenstadt those who followed the Tobelweg will arrive at a junction. Either go right over a wooden bridge to the valley station of the Mittagbahn or continue straight ahead to town and the railway station (10min).
WALK 2
Over the Großer Ochsenkopf to Riedberger Horn
| Start | Bolsterlang |
| Distance | 12.2km (7½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 461m (1512ft) |
| Total descent | 1020m (3346ft) |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 4½hr |
| Maps | Kompass-Wanderkarte |